These may be tough on 56K, Let me know. I'm still learning about resolution size.

http://community.webshots.com/user/redbird0814

My stroked 383 should be ready end of next week.

Steve

Wow. The pics must be to big I guess. 20 looks and nothing to say.

Not to be picky, but I'm going to look into putting the proportioning valve in the transmission tunnel and drill a hole in the floor so I can adjust it from inside the car. Anyone else try this?

Looks good. How'd you get it so clean in there? The port matching looks good too.

polishing the water pump.....SOMEBODY has too much time on their hands.....

very cool....

When lifting your engine from the top you had to remove the m6 first right?

Hey Steve, you still using that engine hoist? I'm looking for one to borrow for a few days.

Sorry Mike, I rented it. $30 a day. I'm glad to here that your going to keep the Formula. Pulling the motor is not that big a deal. I had everything ready and disconnected before I rented the hoist. I pulled the motor out by myself. It couldn't have takin' more than 45 min to an hour tops.

I removed the trans, radiator, even the intake. I was going to remove tthe heads but then decided not to.

I spent last winter removing the entire drivetrain(not motor). I then cleaned/painted everything and put it all back together. Now dropping the trans is a pretty quick deal, maybe 1 hour tops.

Steve

I new that the motor was going to be 4-5 weeks anyways, and this was something that I always wanted to try. I only did the area's that are visible when installed. I didn't have the tools to get into some of the small spaces. believe me it would not pass as a show car peice but I did a pretty good job. It was kind of fun but quite a bit of work. I did a light job on the large casting that holds the altenator and A/C pump, just cleaned it up with the sanding pads. Then when I took the intake in for powder coat the guy also does ceramic coating. For $50 bucks he would do the casting so I gave it to him, should look pretty cool.

Steve

I also wanted to do this, but at this time I now just want to get this thing back on the road. If I ever get to were I'm running this car on the track on a regular basis, then I will change it. You must have it in the car while on the track in order to really take advantage of the adjustment. Just my opinion.

$30 a day huh? Where did you get something like that? I can buy a new one from Murrays for about $200 I believe. Just weighing my options.

I live just south of Utica. "Utica rent-all". Just call around to the renters in your area.

If your going to use it a lot and don't mind storing it then I would buy one.

Storing it is the problem until we move and I can build an external garage. Yet another thing that is making it hard for me to race well this year.

Yeah Mike I would rent one unless you have the space to store...my dad bought me one a while ago, and I have used it a lot, but 99% of the time, it takes up A TON OF SPACE in a two car garage!

You should be able to rent one at ANY equipment rental place....where you find rototillers, power washers, etc.

Yes, we had this done. The shop ran a new line for the rear since the existing line was snuggled up with the headers too much to mess with. After some testing Chris found that the best setting was to dial out the rear as much as possible. With this in mind, we might as well have put the thing in the engine bay, as it is left on one setting all the time. Well, except when bleeding the brakes.

Jason

looking good

I would polish some stuff underneath my hood, but I really don't think that the minimal weight reduction is worth the time and effort that goes into it.


Looks good. I dig the Camaro poster.