I am putting the spare (original) 3rd member with the torsen back in my 99 1LE. My 96 Z/28 conv. has the original Auburn with a set of Motive 4.10's in it. The current 3rd member in the 99 has Strange axles, Auburn racer carrier, 4.10 Motives, T/A cover, a very large pinion nut, etc. Originaly I was just going to move the Strange axles over to the '96, but I'm now considering moving the entire 3rd member over to it ? Any potential probs. running the heavier sprung posi on the street ? The '96 has 295/18's on it, and will rarely see "sticky" tires except occasional track use. Either way I have to pull the axles as the '96 has Wilwood 4 pistons on the back (6 piston front), and I need to move the backing plates. The LT1 makes 365 rwhp, but is scheduled to be converted to a nastier LS1 once I rebuild the engine from the 99, which had 445 rwhp

I don't see the problem with it....just a matter of getting used to how it behaves. Take the car to an empty parking lot and step on it in a sharp turn from a stop. That should tell you what you need to know.

As I remember, Auburn used to say not to use those on the street. I just went through their website and catalog and I no longer see that mentioned. I'd probably send them a quick email...just in case.

Thanks for the input trackbird, I'll fire an email off to Auburn. Thanks CMC for the quick test. I can't imagine it being any harsher than a detroit locker a friend used to run on the street. I aslo remember the SLP cars getting a beefed up Auburn back in the mid-90's, they would sell the stock take out Auburns from the Z's and T/A's for $50, but I'm not sure if this was the same type ?

I think if they had a disclaimer it would be to CYA! I can't imagine it would be harsher than a Detroit Locker as I drove with one in my 3rd gen CMC car for many years. Not on the street mind you, but I have driven Jeeps on the street equipped with all kinds of traction devices including lockers. Just be cautious in your application of gas in turns, or if you have an auto tranny. You can get in trouble in a straight line if a locker engages too harshly in street driving when an auto shifts. Turns with autos and a locker/serious traction device can be *very* entertaining!

I like how you put that.

Fortunatly all cars involved are 6 speeds The car with a locker that I drove (didn't own) on the street was a '70 Boss 302 Mustang, the roll bar and sound deadener removed, but the carpet re-installed. The only negative I remember is backing up while turning, it would suddenly sound like someone drove into the side of you ! Sure woke you up if you weren't expecting it ! I fired the email to Auburn, we'll see what they say.

I thought it might be a case of heat issues/wear. If it's super high bias, it may wear quickly. That was my take on it, but it's been years. Let us know what Auburn says!

I have a racers diff laying under a bench at a friends. I'd forgotten about it until now. I got it used and don't know if it's any good.

Well I'm still not sure, as I'm not too confident the rep was in the loop on this. On their site it says;

There are a few simple guidelines which must be followed to order these special diffs:
•A photo of your race vehicle is required.
•Certification that the vehicle is in fact used for racing only.
•Please indicate where and in what class or classes you race.

This is what I said;
I purchased a '99 Z/28 that had been used for Autocross and I'm converting the car back to stock. I have another '96 that is heavily modified street car, 400+ rwhp, 6 speed, Strano bars and springs, Koni shocks, etc. The street car has BFG KDW street tires , 295's on an 18" rim. I was considering using the "racer" Auburn off of the '99 on the '96 for street use, making the assumption it is a stronger piece, and isn't just a heavier spring within the unit. Please advise, and if you could for the sake of educating me, explain the reasons. Thanks in advance !

This is the reply I received, verbatim !

"We used to tell me it wasn't streetable but I think you will be ok to do this."

My concern is whether it will actualy differentiate through a corner in the rain, or try to remain "locked" Maybe that T2-R in the box is a better idea ?

The racers diff has a "floating" cross pin. In a corner, the outside axle shifts inboard some (due to play), hits this pin and presses on the clutch pack to make the diff lock up better (using the cornering load on the rear tires as extra clutch load). So, I think it should lock, but you don't want it "as locked" in a corner, so it's a bit of an odd design (on the other hand, people seem to love them, so maybe I'm looking at that wrong). That's the big difference.

I can sell the Racer's... and do it without the paperwork.

I have one in my car, and I drive it on the street... it's just tight and they are covering their asses if you wrap yourself around a tree in the rain.

The Eaton and a Racers work about the same in terms of putting power down. The Auburn is not rebuildable, but has the D-Rex exchange program, and the clutches do seem to wear faster than the Eaton. Then again, the Auburns never ever fail, so Eaton's have. The last time I won ESP @ Nationals, it was with a Racer's in the car (the same one that is still it in). Admittedly I haven't been running the car much since then, but it's living better than any other Racer's I've used before. And I know the Watts link is helping it because the RR isn't nearly as badly unloaded which means it's a little harder to tear it up.

I ran the Racers diff on the street in my daily driver prior to my current Eaton. I don't recall how long I had it, maybe 2 years? No problems that couldn't be attributed to lack of maintenance and aggressive driving.

Thanks again everyone for the input, Ive decided to give it a shot. According to the paperwork I received with the car, this one came from you Sam

I'm guessing you bought Art's old car?

Yep ! Guilty as charged.....