Today it was nice until 1:30PM. Autocross from 9-Noon, then 3:30-5PM. Brake stop challenge between 4-5:30PM. Tomorrow should be warm and clear the entire day.
Autocross was more of the usual. I started hearing the UETA arm banging the loop, but the zip ties were just barely on. Didn't notice any brake hop though. Best time was 1:07.2. I
think the Z06 driven by the Wiseco rep, setup by Danny Popp, was in the lead with a 1:02 or 1:03. The owner of the red F-body knew Sean from other events in the region, I think his best was a 1:04. He bought one of Bob Bishops last set of trackbrackets and he's never used them (he has 18" wheels with CTS-V calipers) and may be interested in selling the to me. One of my runs a local fella asked if he could have a ride. I had a hard time understanding his english, and based upon what his associates mentioned to him in the car, he may have been a homeless fellow his friends brought out for some fun. Something I didn't mention yesterday is that this pavement is not terribly smooth, nor do they blow the surface dust/pebbles off. My stiffer rear suspension definitely seems like a hindrance here. I was regularly blowing my engine sensor fuse during the autocross. I picked up some this morning and already replaced it three times in the autox. I forgot to mention yesterday that my first autox run apparently splashed water in the right area to make my alternator overcharge for awhile. It seemed to fix itself after sitting for awhile, and subsequent baths have not caused the same problem.
Skies opened up for a classic Florida storm at 1:30PM... hard rain for about 15 minutes, then clear skies again. Luckily most of the pavement was warm enough it didn't take too long to dry off except for the larger puddles.
The brake stop challenge was a new experience for me. We started at the drag strip tree, ignoring R/T, then attempted to go as fast as possible in the 1/8th mile and then stop within a predetermined distance after the 1/8th. The end had warning cones set up in sets of 4, then 3, then 2, then the box you were supposed to stop in without hitting the end cones. I have -1.8 camber for this trip, unsure how much that hurt stopping power, otherwise stock LS1 brakes with HPS pads, cheap rotors, ATE fluid, and the UETA. I had bad grip problems accelerating on these A6's as shown in my scanning logs. It was 10-15 minutes between each attempt.
Attempt 1: Max speed 72MPH, time to speed 9.2s, time back to zero 4.5s (Lost focus, stopped way too early, DNF, focus next time dummy!)
Attempt 2: Max speed 75MPH bouncing off the 2nd gear rev limiter, time to speed 8s, time back to zero 4.3s (stopped a bit early, had to release brake a bit to land in box, will try shifting into 3rd next time)
Attempt 3: Max speed 78MPH, time to speed 8.2s, time back to zero 4.1s (waited too long after shifting into third, stopped maybe 10ft too far, DNF)
Attempt 4: Max speed 75MPH, time to speed 8.2s, time back to zero 4.5s (waited a bit too long after shifting in third, stopped about 3ft too far, DNF)
I didn't realize I was supposed to pickup a timeslip for these runs, so I only have the last three slips (which are in the car). But one of them was 9.7, and another was 9.2. That time is supposed to be your official run time. I can't seem to see how I got a 9.7 on any of the runs so I'm a bit confused on the scoring.
Looking forward to the good weather tomorrow. On the way back from the final speed stop run, I notice my oil pressure is at 20psi when stopped to wait for passing traffic, then goes back to 40-50'ish when I start driving again. Take it back to the pit and check the oil level and it's still 1/8-1/4" above the top of the hash. Hmm, maybe that German Castrol Syntec just got hot? I put down my boards to swap tires to go back to the hotel, watching the oil pressure. 1s, 2s, 3s, 4s, turn it off. Oil pressure reads 0. Between the owner of K1 (formerly at Oliver rods), the owner of ERL, my engine builder, and the staff of the School of Automotive Machinists (SAM) out of Houston we have some ideas to try tomorrow morning. LS3 motor with stock F-body pan, Improved Racing baffle, Katech ported LS6 oil pump with stiffer green o-ring.
To confirm an electrical problem, we have these ideas: Attach alligator clips from a multimeter direct to the sending unit wires, and measure the voltage at idle for a few seconds, then turn it off. Scale the voltage against 0V=0PSI 5V=80PSI to see what the sender is seeing vs the oil gauge. I have a DMM with me, but it has probe leads not alligator leads. Maybe I can find some other longer conductive wire to stick in the back of the sending unit connector check the voltage off those wires. Or locate the wires under the dash and check there.
I think I've decided I will pull the passenger valvecover and attempt to keep all the connections in tact, fold some cardboard over the rockers to hopefully minimize getting oil everywhere, and start the car for a few seconds to see if oil is coming out the pushrods to confirm oil is getting to the top of the motor. If that's OK, then try to locate a replacement oil sending unit at a local parts store. If it's not getting to the top of the motor, then I have a severe issue and I'm not sure how I'm going to go about handling it 800 miles from home since I drove the car here... suggestions?
Judd & Linda from SAM are staying near me and are giving me rides to/from the hotel for now. Dinner's here and I have a headache. Signing off for now