Saw this at tgo.org thought yoou guys would be interested

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/engine-d...tml#post5505930

That actually looks really simple. Probably just a threaded insert that's welded into the end of the cut bar. You could also shorten the front sway bar arm this way for a stiffer bar. On the a-arm side I guess you'd have to weld in to plates to put it double shear.

Anybody have any idea what type of steel is used for factory sway bars and how to weld it? In this case the welds are on the outside the torsion area of the bar so I don't see any reason why that wouldn't hold up.

The rear bar/plate looks a little hokey but it would probably work with some gussets.

You going to take them 91camarosRS? If not I may see if he's interested in just selling the front bar. It's easily worth a $100 to me if the end links are in good shape. It doesn't look like anything I can't replicate, but I'd rather save the time at this point.

I did this to my front bar this winter:


The tube is tapped for 3/8-24 with a counter bore on the rod end side to get some bolt stretch.


Now with additional gusset.

The sway bar arms are slightly shorter so the bar is effectivly stiffer as well.

Nice looking welds, I've got a ways to go with my TIG'ing... Did you just use ER70S-2 filler?

Lower rod end attaches to the front face of the LCA:


Zinc plated cap screws, rod end spacer and maybe a couple washers between the rod end and LCA. I had to remove the springs to check that the rod ends weren't binding at both the full droop and full jounce conditions. I ended up having to tweak the rod end tube length and add some washers in the bottom to eliminate bind at full jounce.



Also showing off my fancy dancy new Wilwood caliper brackets and brake ducts The new brackets are smaller in the steering arm area to allow for the brake duct tube.

I believe I used ER70S-6 but ER80-? might be better. I did try and heat the bar up before hand with some propane torches and a heat gun but the bar is relatively heavy so it was difficult to get much heat into it. I might have got the ends up to 150F or so before welding, which is still better than room temp. The stresses are going to be low at this end of the bar so my hunch is that if it didn't crack already it’s not going to crack in operation... we'll see.

I've seen welded sway bars on race cars with welds connecting the arms to the long 'torsion spring' part of the bar,,,, and with that my hunch is that failure is immanent. Springs are very highly stressed and see many cycles which makes that a very bad place for a weld. The end link ends of the bar arms have very little stress in comparison.

No plans to buy. Wrong time of my build to buy those. My cash needs to go somewhere else right now

Very nice! Btw if you didn't already know I have been looking at a custom idea of turning the front turn signals into brake ducts on our cars and using a led style blinker. Summit number AAF-AAL42141 looks almost exact size.