I'm mostly kidding but here's why I ask. My dad noticed his 335d was a little sluggish. He put some Lucas fuel injector cleaner in it and it made a noticeable difference. My E36 M3 has 210,000 miles on it and for a while now it ran like crap until fully warmed up. It would drop a cylinder or something, but since it ran like a champ when at operating temp, it didn't bother me very much. Anyway, after only 40 miles with Lucas in the tank, it doesn't do it anymore. Same with my boat and even my 7.3 Powerstroke is running better.

So my 97 SS has a junkyard LT1 in it. It only has 116,000 miles on it but it's been sitting for years. I recently got the car on the road. It has great oil pressure, doesn't smoke, but runs very rough. The fuel injector cleaner is helping but I think there's a compression problem. Is there anything on the shelves that can help with that? I know there are products that say they can, but anything that actually works like the fuel injector cleaner? My goals for this engine is to do a few track days with it and sometime next year swap an LS1 into it. I just need to get by for about a year or so. I only paid $380 for engine so I'm not too worried about it.

Seafoam

A pint of Kreen in the tank usually works wonders.

A double dose of Red Line SI-1 (two 15 ounce bottles) in a half tank of gas has also been know to be effective.

The Red Line product has the highest percentage concentration of PEA (the MOST effective injector pure detergent currently available) of any of the on the shelf injector cleaners out there, YES, EVEN the Techron and Gumout Regane, both of which are also very good.

Curious about the 335d as I have looked into buying one in the past. Problem I found was due to the EGR and DPF where it would end up clogging up the intake I think which results in a very costly repair. Lots of diesel trucks guys run an additive but didn't know if it was recommended for the Bimmer diesel. How many miles and what type of driving on the 335d?

As for your question and needs there are other fuel injector cleaning systems that hook up to the fuel rail but I have used Chevron's Techron. If you want to try something for the engine internals like the pistons then seafoam might be an option. I don't know if it's just a smoke show or if it actually does anything.

Yesterday I took the Camaro out to do some last minute Christmas shopping but ended up at the bar instead. I did some reading on engine restore and many people did before and after compression tests and it definitely works. So I went to Advanced and picked up a $10 can of engine restore and dumped it in the oil and drove home. 10 minutes later that engine was running better than it ever has. I'll take out again today and see how it does.

So my dad got the 335d when it was new. That car is incredible. I've never experienced torque like that before. And my dad consistently gets between 34 and 36 MPG.

I know the egr is an issue and I'm pretty sure he had to deal with it already. I'll ask him the details of what happened this week when I see him. It's bome stock and he does mixed driving. There has to be an aftermarket fix for it by now, right? I know he's thinking about a tune which gives a claimed 60 hp and 100 ft/lbs to the ground.

Don't know if there is a good aftermarket fix. I just remember reading on a forum about the repair costing some guy $9k and people were trying different ways to come up with blocking/deleting the egr/dpf and keeping it from going into limp mode. I have seen the tune but it's just a piggyback system I think on the fuel rail or somewhere in the engine compartment so not a real tune but just ups the pressure or boost maybe.
I have never driven one but if I end up moving and have more of a commute then I think this would be the best setup.

So I talked to my dad over the holidays and he said his car had like 36k miles when he notices it getting sluggish and eventually the check engine light came on. It was under warranty at the time, but the repair would have been about $1500. They have to take the intake manifold off and have it blasted with walnut shells to remove the carbon. The mechanic told my dad it's a problem with direct injection engines, gas or diesel (I don't buy that). The fix is more spirited driving So he's going to run some Lucas fuel injector cleaner once in a while and open it up more often. The problem is the thing pulls so hard you run out of room quickly. It's a good problem to have.

Anyway, he loves it and has no plans on getting rid of it, even with this problem.

It's a legit issue. With direct injection there is no fuel in the intake system to keep the intake runner and valve clean. The PCV system pull the oil into the intake where it bakes / builds up with nothing to clean it out. Adding fuel injection cleaner will have no effect on it, since it won't get where it's needed.

Mini is having this issue, and a lady that works for me had to have in done on her VW. With more engines going to direct injection, it's going to be a growing problem....

So spirited driving won't help it then either, huh? What about once in a while spraying carb cleaner into the TB or intake manifold on the diesel?

CRC came up with a product just for the DI intake valve problems.

You spray it into a sealed system (ALL intake hoses attached and sealed) with a straw, while the engine is running.

I don't know how effective it is since it was just released last year.

Sounds like CRC is heading in the right direction.

I wonder if putting a catch can inline with the PCV system would help slow the rate of buildup...

A catch can is a popular mod for the GM SUV and LS-based car crowd for controlling oil consumption.

Does that work with diesels?

The BMW diesel guys are trying to block the EGR as my understanding that is what clogs it up. Maybe they do something with the PCV if it has one. I have a PCV kit on my duramax and an EGR block to keep it clean. Have read about the walnut shell blasting but believed it was much more expensive-especially at a dealer.
Thanks for the info.

I'll bet that the newest gen LT1 folks who open track their rides (C7s/6th gen SSes) are installing these as well, since they ARE direct injected.

I have a Moroso air/oil separator on my LS1, even though some think it is useless.

It does collect about 3 ounces of oil mist every 2000 miles when I drain it.

The CRC Intake Valve Cleaner is very effective at cleaning accumulated carbon off intake valves and piston tops! I used it on a TPI engine with 100K+ miles with worn rings. I blocked off the PCV clean air port on the throttle body, cut a hole for the application straw, and then followed the directions on the product. (Essentially 2000 RPM while spraying the contents into the engine, chill the engine for 20 minutes, and then drive at Interstate speeds for 10-20 miles to clean out the remaining crud.)

I did just before an oil change because I didn't want the product slipping past the worn rings in my everyday oil (0W-40 Mobil 1). After changing the oil, I removed spark plugs #1,3,5, and 7 to take a look with a friend's bore scope. All the intake valves and piston tops were relatively clean compared to their previous state! Plus I immediately noticed better seat of the pants acceleration. Still have the worn rings, but saving up to do the engine rebuild in another 50K miles.

^^^Thanks for the review!

I have a can of this I plan to use before changing to my summer OCI, since I suspect some 'carbon knock' in my LS1.

Just out of curiosity... Would Marvel Mystery Oil or a TC-W3 2-Stroke oil help a sticking check valve on the fuel pump assembly? Use 3 oz. per 15 gallons.

The reason I ask is as follows...

Given that funding has still got me waiting on the fuel pump replacement, the car runs fine <*knocks wood*> after priming the fuel pump twice and has been as such since summer when I first posted to this fine online community. It just loses pressure at rest.

With just 69K on the original pump, could the above products help "free up" or "clean up" any gumming or whatever and lubricate components on the fuel pump assembly - especially since we use 10% ethanol which was not the case when these units were designed and built - thereby resolving my issue without the need to replace the pump / cutting the trap door?

It's a longshot, I know, but it'd be mega if it worked. I also noticed these matters started after I changed the fuel cap to something other than OEM. Hmmmm.....

I have a '96 Dodge Cummins. Over on the "Diesel Truck Resource" page, they always spoke of using MMO/PS. I finally asked that was and it's Marvel Mystery Oil/Power Service added to the fuel. They recommended 12 oz of PS, and 6oz of MMO when filling up. I have a 36 gallon tank on that thing, so it may be a bit less for you. The PS can be found at Wal Mart, Advance, etc.

Hey this is my thread! Wow a lot has changed since then. My car is still running awesome. I haven’t added any more snake oil to it since this thread.

What’s kind of sad is dailydriver was talking about trying something because he was starting to hear something. Little did he know it was a lifted that was failing and would get worse over the next few months. That’s when I bought his car and pulled the engine. That car is now my dad’s car.

Thanks!