Still running the OEM Torsen as house issues forced me to put the diff swap on hold. Anyway, I came across this article while researching the 10 bolt...

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/hppp-0...-rearend-build/

Although it's 10 years old, how relevant is the build advice they offer? I plan on keeping the power stock (2001 LS1 6MT) and I run street tires, not Hoo$iers.

Would a diff (probably a TrueTrac, I don't think I'd like the way a clutch diff engages) and new bearings and such be OK, or should axles and the ring gear be replaced as well? There have been some axle hops in the car's lifetime.

Thanks!

I am no expert in that, but their 5 points at the bottom seem reasonable. <shrug> I personally would look at the axle bearing surfaces, they could be worn. I had one get pitted just randomly before I even drove it a lot at AX. Don't buy moser axles.

Whats wrong with Moser axles? Theyre the only company I know of that makes axles for a GM 9-bolt...

There have been known issues with Moser axles, namely soft finishes which causes premature wear at the bearing surfaces, resulting in leaks, etc. Support from Moser for these problem axles has not been stellar, so they kind of got a rep for bad parts, and not standing behind them. Since there are others out there providing parts, many recommend trying elsewhere before ordering from Moser.

That said, we have a Moser 9" under our Firebird, and so far, it has been a good diff. You have to do most of the footwork when working with Moser, though.

I had a set of axles and when I had video evidence of issues with them they refused to acknowledge it could even be their product. I have like a 5 page thread here on it. When i went back to GM axles, problem went away. Maybe their other products are better but I'll not buy from them again.

been running a Moser for over a decade. seen lots of racing and abuse. its been flawless. i literally havent touched it or serviced it since the install.

How old/long ago did you install your Moser parts compared to the guys who had issues with them?

Is it possible to still get OEM GM axles? As I said, I don't plan on ever increasing power.

I've been using Yukon axles with good results in the 10bolts, I can check availability on the 9bolt, what year is the car?

Cool! Which year or engine/trans (if it matters) Yukon?

I've been compiling a parts list with part numbers and suppliers and such so when the time comes, easy reference.

Thanks!

Yukon as in yukongear.com, not Yukon as in the short suburban.

You should be ok with the Yukon axles as long as you don't step up to 315 Hoosiers. I had a weird bending issue with factory axles that didn't get any better with the Yukons. The pictures in this thread were with factory axles, here.

I may have switched back to factory axles, if you want I can check and see what I have laying around.

don't weld the tubes.

Yes to AAM gears if they need replaced.

Use the diff you want for traction.

Otherwise, If it aint broke don't fix it. Mho

I've also heard that their clutch pack type, 10 bolt limited slip (DuraGrip) is a very good item as well, and a little less coin than the Eaton Posi to boot!