Probably a threaded rod with a big nut and a lot of washers? Where did you get the threaded rod?

I know a lot of people use the bolt to pull it on but in afraid of jacking up the thread.

I'd get a balancer installation tool that fits. That's how I did it. I used a Blue Point (Snap On's cheap line) to do the LS2 balancer. It worked perfectly.

Dead blow hammer on far enough to get a good couple threads started and then finish with the ARP bolt. Not recommended though

That can open up the snout on the balancer and reduce the effectiveness of it. However, at 2am in Virginia, after driving all day and thrashing on a truck all night to rebuild the engine and toss it in the truck, I pounded one on with an exhaust manifold, then put the bolt in to pull it the rest of the way on (this was a small block Chevy). I paid $150 for the truck and I took up a collection of junk parts from my fellow techs at Jegs for the overhaul. I had a free crankshaft that was in an engine that laid on it's back in the yard for a while (but the bolts still held after I chased the threads) and 7 good rods and pistons (the 8th was broken). I took bearings and we threw it all together and reused one piston and rod from the original motor.

When doing work like that, an exhaust manifold balancer installer is just fine.

I've got it started and have two ARP bolts. One was installed and I have a new one. There are so many people who use the bolt to pull it on but just as many say not to because you can pull the threads out of the crank.

Kevin I know what you are saying!!!! and trying to instill with the group. Coming from somebody that works on cars for a living. I always try and do it the correct way. But I felt comfortable doing this after surveying the situation. Again not the correct method. It worked for me. Your results may vary!! You are so warned.

John

I pulled the threads out of the front of a 1999 Mustang GT crank once by using the bolt to pull it in. Hence being a little nervous about that approach.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900135

Ordered!!! Thank you!

I use that summit tool, it's a great purchase.

That tool worked great. So I tightened the nut until it basically stopped. I felt like the balancer was seated. But I see all kinds of posts about like 250 ft/lbs to seat the damn thing. So since I used the installer, what do I need to torque the ARP bolt to?

235 ft/lbs with the ARP lube

Geez. Well I've got it snug. Can I torque down the front cover and keep assembling the engine, get it in the car then torque the ARP bolt? In my head I think it would be fine.

You should be able too. I would do now if you can. 235 is not much to pull against

Another plus one for the Summit tool. You may have to wait until it's in the car. I had to get a friend to stand on the brakes for me to be able to hit the torque spec.

I've used this several times with some anti seize on the the threads without incident:

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/catalo...nk-pulley-bolt/

Pull it down most of the way with that, then use old bolt to get it the rest of the way. Then install new bolt and go.

That said a stud would be a lot better/safer.

With the current aluminum hub ATI balancer, I left the garage cracked over night to in the winter to get the crank nice and cool. Then I tossed the hub in the oven at 250 or maybe it was 300° for 30 minutes and it slid on very easily.