Hey so my neighbor used to own a 3rd gen Camaro years ago. His daily is an F150 and he wants a smaller car to run around in and thinks it'd be cool to get another 3rd gen.

So, that being said, an recommendations on what he should look for?

Thanks guys.

That's awfully open-ended. I'd say look for an LS1 swapped IRS with full cage 3rd gen! But srsly, what does he want from it? Will it ever AX? Wants a beater? IROC edition? Drag/street? The usual used car warnings apply: rust, records, replaced parts, reliability...

Ha I told him about an LS1 swapped car also. No racing. He'd probably keep it mostly stock. He just wants something other than his truck to run around in.

I think he had an IROC and would probably want another one that was similar.

Are there any years to avoid? Options that avoid? Any known issues that he should be aware of? I don't know anything about 3rd gens, but I know you guys do. That's why I'm asking.

I'd buy a 305 or 350 TPI car. I might suggest a 305 TPI 5 speed (if he's so inclined). Then you can toss a T56 in it and a 350 down the road if you want. The swap is a bolt in at that point. If he's going to stay automatic, look for a 350 car. The 8th digit of the VIN is the engine code.

E=305 TBI (throttle body injection....pickup truck injection)
F=305 TPI (tuned port injection)
8=350 TPI
G/H were various carbed models, but the last year for a carb was 1987.

1986 and later get the one piece rear main seal (less leaks) and the 1987 and later cars have the roller cam. So, I would buy at least a 1987 and honestly I'd consider '88-92 to be the right choice. 1988 got the serpentine belt assembly instead of a pile of V belts and a "rube goldberg" contraption of assorted brackets.

1987 and later have a slightly different cylinder head bolt pattern than the traditional 1955-1986 Chevy small block. The center bolts on the intake are at 72 degrees instead of 90. So, the bolts are angled up towards the hood. It's no big deal, but you'll need to know that if you ever buy heads or an intake for the car or plan to change them later (buy both and swap it all at once).

Look for a 10 bolt rear axle car instead of a 9 bolt Australian rear for better parts availability.

Well, 9-bolt.com IS back in business, but are now an Australian firm, so shipping of heavy diff parts can be pricy,malthough shipping from there is usually priced by package size. 9-bolts are light and damned near bullet-proof, but when you DO need parts, like the posi cones, you can be in trouble.

Look for G92 on the option sticker (usually in the console storage) to get the good suspension bits and posi. If it's an '87 350 IROC G92 is automatic so it wont be on there, but other than that you can wind up with peg leg and soft springs even on a mean-looking 350 IROC or '91-'92 Z28. Of course he might not mind that. Then there's the Sawzall fuel pump trap door. Some people don't mind this... others hate it. Regardless, it's ammo to lower the price. Also, 3rd gens are some of the least-garaged enthusiast cars in America and have wound up on an unbelievable amount of gravel and mud for how unsuited they are to it. There is lots of water-related damage to many T-top cars.

'89+ got PBR rear discs similar to the LT1 cars. The iron calipers before that had issues.

Personally, I'd only look at hard top cars to minimize the amount of "Damn it, it's raining and I'm getting wet again".

I kept thinking about getting a 3rd gen summer daily but then I sat in the 4th gen I'm parting out for a while and it's a whole bunch of "NOPE". After driving trucks/SUVs around for the better part of a decade, I've gotten more used to an upright seating position and not feeling like my knees are in my chest (I'm 6'3"). Just sitting in the 4th gen for 15 minutes started aggravating my hips. I'd have to do a custom seat/mount. F-that.

Buy the best example he can afford for sure.

I'd personally want a manual, but that is preference.

Yes, hardtop for no leaks/windnoise.

92 had some 3M structural adhesive squirted here and there to help.

I'd put in sub-frame connectors.

A lot of it comes down to 'how is it used' and if he will eventually track it, want more power, etc.

For a DD, I'm super happy with my 92 1le/b4c car....good brakes and suspension plus AC and good mpg. <shrug>

Costas
cars and such...

^^ What he says! Our 92 B4C/1LE is probably about the most fun to drive of any of our street cars. The shifter is like cutting hot butter, and that little 305 just runs! Nice examples of 92 B4C cars are starting to command a premium, but if you find one with less than 200K miles that's been moderately cared for it may be worth it.

Like Paul says, throw a set of SFCs under it, if it doesn't already have a set. That'll go for any 3rd Gen. Our car was roadraced for a short period, and has the cracks in the roof over the door window openings to prove it.