Apparently all of those letters I keep getting in the mail about class action law suits about the 2015 (and similar) Silverado trucks have some merit. My AC isn't cooling (now that the weather is warm) and close inspection revealed a cracked high pressure AC line at the compressor. I figured this out after putting gauges on it and finding 18 psi on the low pressure side (it should be around 35 psi). It seemed to be leaking freon almost as fast as I was putting it in. Ultimately, I ordered new high and low pressure lines (from the compressor and to the compressor), an expansion valve and drier assembly. Add in freon and new belts and I'm looking at about $550 in parts...give or take.

Apparently these trucks are known for compressor issues, high pressure line issues and there's a weld in the condenser that's known to crack. I sprayed soapy water on the condenser and I didn't see any bubbles. Tomorrow, I'll tear it all apart and swap out the lines. I'm hoping this doesn't turn into an all day event....

I've also learned that we now have "stretch fit" belts that don't use an idler pulley. I hadn't run into this before and sadly I didn't find it in time to get the proper tools delivered. However, my neighbor is a former dealer tech and a newly minted Matco dealer. He happened to have a few of the tools GM used to send with new belts, so he gave me a set of those so I can hopefully get the belt on without too much drama.

I'll keep you posted.

Ugh, my Civic is charged with the new stuff (R-1234yf). It's a 2016 and needed charged again in 2019. They checked for leaks then and there were none. Seems like it's starting to get weak again after exactly 2 years. It's not as weak as it was in 2019 but still takes 10-15 minutes to get really cold. And you cannot idle or drive in slow city traffic the entire time if you want it to get cold. Of course if it takes 2-3 years to run out it won't show up on a leak test. The molecules of R-1234yf are even smaller than R-134! I don't think they should be making the lines out of aluminum anymore for porosity's sake. Steel might be better for preventing your situation too.

Wow...Thanks for the Information. I have a "15" also. So far only the battery went TU, and some sensor the dealer changed under warranty. I have heard that there were problems with the AC, because its all under the dash, but I don't know specifically what was wrong. I hope your problem is a simple fix. Regards.

I replaced both lines from the compressor, the expansion valve and all the seals for everything we had open (actually, Racerdad916 did, I went to his place for help and he wound up doing the work...in fairness, he's taller than me and he could reach everything a little better than I could). We pulled a vacuum and recharged it. We wound up putting far more freon in it than it said on the tag under the hood. It seems to be cooling well, but it took more freon than expected. We calculated it to need 21 ounces and change, we put in an ounce of oil (PAG oil) and 2 ounces of freon, a full 12 ounce can of freon, the remains of 3/4 of a can that we had and about 2/3 of an additional 12 ounce can. At that, the pressures were showing 35 psi on the low side and 225 on the high side. That was a little lower than the chart showed on the low side and a little higher on the high side. The thermometer showed 50 degree air coming out of the vents and the outside temp was 90 degrees. A 40 degree temp split is pretty good, so I think that's going to have to do for now.

I need to learn how to do this since I don't want to pay an A/C shop to get my IROC's A/C working (getting to old to live without it, hot weather makes me way too tired) for the first time since about 1999, maintain my Colorado's (it's going to turn 10 this fall and is still on the original charge) and if the Civic's going to need charged every 3 years I don't want to have to pay the dealer $350 every time it needs it. But they all take different refrigerants!

I think one of the biggest problems with new cars is that if something does happen to them nobody knows anything about them since they act up so little. Including the dealers. Dealers can fix LSes like MFers by now but if something goes wrong with a new LT none of them have ever seen it before and they have to fly an engineer in (real story) who even then might not know. You get 15 years down the road though and I'll be able fix the damn thing. Dealer training simply can't forsee this stuff because there's no precedent. Like that fix for vapor lock on the carbureted 3rd Gens that GM came up with using some zany contraption after like 5 years of work but now everybody on TGO knows how to fix super easily for $6. I don't remember the details.

Funny you mention the 3rd Gens.... I got my 84 Z28 HO in November of 83 spent all of January 84 at the Dealer for Warranty repair. One of my buddies down at work picked up his 84 Z28 HO just before Christmas, so the two cars are only about a 1000 S/N's apart. He gets a recall notice for the Vapor Lock problem, they have his car about a month. The fix was an Electric Fuel Pump in the tank, and a relocated fuel line. I inquired and was told my car did not fall into the affected list of S/N's.We both had the exact same bucking and stalling issues. Only difference was mine stopped and his still did it even after the fix. That's some GM engineering right there.....

See Gordon, I'm not just a 6 speed swap guy, I have other tricks....

I have a vacuum pump and gauges for R134. I have six cans of R12 stashed away for an old car at some point....though I'm starting to think I'll never use them. I haven't looked for gauges for R1234 or whatever the new one is, but I'm sure there are adapters for the vacuum pump and gauges are likely available through the normal sources (Napa, etc).

I hear yard sales have more R12 than you'd think. I might try stopping at a few to try and build up a hoard. I'd like to get a set of guages that would let me do all 3 but haven't looked into it.

My 2014 was the weld on the condenser. Looking closely through the grill, you could see the oil(?) leaking out of it.

I sprayed mine with soapy water to check it. I could see all the green oil on the high pressure line on the bottom of the compressor. It made it easier to sort out the leak.

Argh finding a gauge that does all 3 is tough. The one from Harbor Freight that people recommend often only does R-134. Then I have found ones that do R-12 and R-134a and ones that do R-134 and R1234yf but ones that do all 3 are digital and start at $500 with no hoses or fittings. Going to keep looking. I actually wouldn't mind one that does R-12 and R-1234yf since you can usually find someone you know with an R-134a one or get the $60 Harbor Freight one. I remember my '97 Ram started getting weak in 2006 but you know how Dodges don't like getting old. I never had it fixed. What I'm saying is that R-134 is my lowest priority.

So what about this for R-12:https://www.autozone.com/a-c-charging-and-r...e-set/58654_0_0
Seems to have worked for one guy's Buick Grand National

And this for R-134a/R1234yf: https://www.amazon.com/Lichamp-Automotive-C...la-805815813996.

That second one -- I don't like Amazon and I don't like seeing stuff like this in the description: "Attention!! Papery Instructions Not Include, we have prepared a online (electronics) Operation Guide with detailed parts diagram and step by step instructions to help novice, you can download on this page or contact us for this file."

Also don't like the reviews. Will keep looking.

https://www.autozone.com/a-c-charging-and-r...319_0?rrec=true

I like this style of connection. You can hook it up, then you screw down the fitting to release the schrader valve. I have this style for R134 and I wouldn't own anything else. I think I paid $129 for my set from NAPA. I've had them for years. The other thing, try to find a set that comes in a hard case. Mine wind up hanging on the end of a shelving unit because I don't have a good way to store them. I'd have probably paid another $50 to get some in a case.

I also don't love the idea of dual gauges. It seems that you could easily contaminate the system with the other type of refrigerant or oil from the other system (assuming they aren't the same). I'd prefer to keep them as different gauge sets.

I didn't think about the contamination possibility. R12 is the fist priority since it's the most current issue. What stinks about the R12 one from AutoZone from my link is that they don't show the fittings in the picture. I might try to add the locking fittings if not present. Now with your link it doesn't say whether it's R12 or R134. Can you tell by looking?

As far as a case goes, there's one made for a Playstation 1 sitting at work that looks like it is the perfect size. It won't sell since half the logo is ripped off (game collectors are really into logos).

I am quite sure those are 134 gauges, I was searching for the set I had so you could see the connections.

Gotcha. I'll look for that style.

I thought all R12 gauge hose ends screwed on to the fitting on the car? That's all I've ever seen, anyway. Our '92 B4C got a 134 conversion, and it has the quick-disconnect fittings on it. Good thing, because they match my 134 gauges.

Stretch-to-fit belts S U C K! WTH did they do that? It's not like you can R&R the belt w/o any tools! And you have to have the correct 'stretcher' for the right vehicle! I nearly pulled the crank sensor off the block of my wife's Tahoe trying to replace the A/C belt on the thing. It was the right belt for the truck, but the 'stretcher' was not correct.

I now own 4 belt stretcher tools. My neighbor was a GM mechanic and GM used to send them with the belts. He had a few extras and gave me a set. I also bought the Lisle brand tool and the Gates tool (also sold as the AC Delco tool). Then....we got the AC work done without pulling the belts and they looked good so I didn't swap them. lol.

I had a 16 Sierra and got tired of the payment and incompetent dealership techs. Every time I tried to get something fixed under warranty, they literally broke it worse to the point that I had to do it myself every time. Dumped it for a minty 03 Sierra 2500HD gasser and haven't looked back. As far as the AC goes, the blend doors have the inherited gmt900 problem where they need reset. IIRC, you can pull the relay on them in some order and reset it. Easy way to test is to check the driver versus passenger side temps. Just wanted to toss that out there, since it's related to the subject matter and free to check versus gutting the AC.

That's good to know. In this case we could see the oil leaking out of the seal/line where the high pressure line meets the compressor. We replaced the hoses, expansion valve, seals, etc and pulled a vacuum, then recharged it. So far, so good. Though I wonder if I need to put a touch more freon in it. I'm not sure it's quite as cold as it was. I guess I need to take a thermometer with me in my work truck (I have a company truck that's the same year and engine Silverado, but it's a regular cab, long bed in 2wd) and compare the discharge temps between them on the same day.

Keep that blend door reset in mind. It can certainly cause that symptom. Friend has had to reset his K2 twice in the past year, where I never needed to touch mine. Hope the info helps. 😁