After 7 glorious years, I finally retired my faithful 2015 SIlverado 1500. It was a 5.3 with crew cab and the electronic transfer case with the AWD option. We have been using it to tow our camper for about the last year and it did an admirable job overall. Sadly, the brakes were not up to the task and on more than one occasion I ran completely out of truck brakes and the trailer stopped the truck. That finally convinced me that it was time for an upgrade.

Last Monday, I drug home a new Silverado 3500 HD (Crew cab, short bed, 4x4/AWD, diesel with the 10 speed allison, 5th wheel/gooseneck prep, Z71 protection package, etc). I'm trying to put break in mileage on it before the next time I have to tow the camper, but so far I'm really impressed. It feels a lot larger than my last 3500, but it feels remarkably light on its feet with all that torque. GM was supposed to do a facelift and a power upgrade for the diesel in 2023, but they held it until 2024. I picked the truck up Monday, Tuesday I went to the chevrolet.com site and they are now "Introducing the 2024 Silverado HD". Awesome....

Despite that, I really like the truck and the facelift isn't really an improvement (I really think these trucks are rather ugly, but the chrome front end on mine is "less bad") and the diesel seems to have plenty of power so I'm not sure if I'll really care about the upgrade. Maybe I'll trade it in a few years....maybe I won't.

I've been trying to verify that the shocks didn't change between 2022 and 2023 so I can order Fox shocks for it. The OEM ranchos provide almost zero damping.

Also, I ordered the Advanced Trailering Package with the multiple camera views. However, you have to buy the "technology package" to get all of the camera views. So, I don't have the front bumper view (could be nice for parking) or the trailer side view cameras (that would be great for pulling around tight corners, etc). I'm a little irritated that the "Advanced Trailering Package" isn't the complete package unless you take lane departure warnings, parking assist, etc....all stuff I specifically didn't want.

So, be aware if you order one, check that stuff out. I ordered this one June 19th, give or take and got it last Monday. I hope I'm not sorry I bought a diesel.

Like the Recaros in the '82 Recaro Edition Trans Am, it sounds like they are "Ranchos in Name Only"

I've never had a Rancho shock that was worth a crap. I tried the adjustable 9000 XL Rancho shocks on my 2015 Silverado. They weren't very good and after a year or so they were pretty much junk. I put them back on the truck to trade it in and pulled the FOX shocks so I could find them a loving home.

I just ordered new FOX shocks for the 3500. Remote reservoir fronts and standard rears (they are out of the remote reservoir rears, but I'll order them and swap them later. The new truck feels like it has no shocks on it. The springs are stiff enough to settle it (or not act like drag springs and bounce it) but over bumps the front just bounces and the rear axle acts like a pogo stick across railroad tracks. The valving is all wrong and they just don't damp anything.

Congrats! Seems to be the year for new vehicles.

Unless something goes horribly wrong with that particular model Duramax, you WON'T be disappointed! We're still enjoying our '02, and it was supposed to be the one with all the injector issues. The only problem we've had with it was the priming pump failed to prime after the last filter change, which necessitated a swap of the entire filter housing (not terribly expensive, nor a bad job, except that I kept futzing with trying to make the old one work and even attempted a rebuild kit which failed to fix the issue). I guess 20 years is about as long as they last.

The light lenses fogged as any 'good' cheesy plastic lens fogs, but the light assemblies, front and rear, were fairly cheap and easy to replace (and still available from GM!). They made the truck look new!

The factory shocks were the first thing we replaced on our truck. Strano, correction, Sam's Mom (it was that long ago) sent me a set of Bilstiens while we still had the paper tags on it. I did give the torsion bar adjusters a turn to keep the control arm off the bump stops 100% of the time, but that's it.

It's been a great truck for us, and we pretty much forget the race car is hitched to it when towing to events. We net a consistent 14.6 MPG, even with the larger tires (got ~19 towing to Topeka the first year we went, but I think the upsized Michelins have really hurt the mileage). The thing is hardly out of the shop w/o the race car hitched to it.

Ha, the train tracks by your house used to be our "subframe connector test" back when my buddy lived over there. Go over the tracks without 'em, have them put on, then go over them again. Ahh, much better. I can't remember which exact crossing it was, but it was rough ~10 years ago.

So far I've added a BAK Revolver X4 roll up tonneau cover (Same one I have advertised from my last truck). Expensive, but I love these covers.

Today, I put Fox shocks on it. Remote reservoir fronts and non remote reservoir rears (they were out of the other ones, but I'll swap to them later). It drives like a whole different truck. It actually drives like it's on "Koni's". I really like these shocks and I'm sure I'll buy them again for the next thing they fit.

The truck was ordered with "in bed lighting", but I didn't get it on the truck. I added the lights from GM aftermarket accessories. Turns out, you have to program them to get them to work. So, I have that an appointment to have the lights turned on. Crazy.

And the new console vault is in. The center console in this is tiny. I can't believe how much smaller the storage is inside the cab of this truck considering how big the truck actually is inside.

I think I'm done with "upgrades" at this point and we are ready to start towing. We pulled the camper home from the dealer yesterday and the truck didn't seem to notice it was back there. I think I'm going to like towing with this thing.

Yeah, it's amazing the stupid crap you have to get 'programmed' to work on these newer vehicles. We're planning to swap the steering wheel on our '18 Tahoe to a pleather one with the radio volume controls that the OEM one does not have. GM claims the volume controls are 'plug and play' add-ons, but we'll see. If they don't work when installed, we'll go ahead and get the BCM programmed, but it seems stupid to have to do so.

https://www.byerschevy.com/used/Chevrolet/2...0da41465b09.htm

Here's the link to my old truck.

^You don't have any extra wheels and tires for the old truck do you? I remember yours got jacked once. Buddy of mine just got a 2014 RCSB 4X4 (took him a while to find one of those) and he wants stock type wheels and tires for it.

I don't have any spares. Unfortunately they took them when they stole them. lol. They appears online pretty regularly if you poke around.

Today I got the computer flashed to make the in bed lighting work. The tech said "these are just plug and play, who said it needed programmed". I said "Well, they don't work and the paperwork said something about tuning". He asked "The internet said it needed tuned?". So I got him the paperwork that came with the lights and he had to call support to get the feature "added to my truck" so any future flashes will have that option in the BCM. Spent 2 hours at the dealership. The service writer was a good dude and knocked it down to $100 total plus tax. Considering it took two hours and they said they bill for 3500 and up (Heavy Duty truck) work at $175 per hour, I was expecting to get a $350 bill for making the lights work (that I had added to the order before they placed it). Luckily they didn't try that and they actually took pretty good care of me.

I also ordered an exhaust "tip" for it. I hate even typing that. But, guys are having the regen cycle on the diesel heat the exhaust enough to melt the front of their trailers/campers. There are pics at the link below that explain the "tip". The dealer considers the "cooling" or "air mixing" vents on the factory exhaust tip to be "part of the emissions system" so I didn't want to risk a voided warranty or any related issues. This tip lets you keep the vents and just cut off the pipe 3" behind them and place a turn out tip on the truck. That seems to do the trick....as much as I can't believe I bought an exhaust tip. Ugh.

https://mbrpexhauststore.com/mbrp-t5154-tip...gree-bend-t304/

The 'plug and play' then reflash bit is disconcerting. Our new Tahoe PPV is missing the radio volume controls on the steering wheel. I've been considering swapping wheels to get that capability back. GM states in the parts catalog that the volume controls are 'plug and play'.

I may still do it because we'll get a better wheel, but really hope we don't have to make yet another trip to the dealer.

He's probably going to hit some of the big SW Ohio flea markets then. They usually have at least one vendor selling take-off wheels and tires for trucks. Could be part of your problem -- I hope those vendors aren't supporting that kind of stuff.

$100 for any programming is very fair.

When we bought our 2008 Suburban, the key fobs didn't work. No worries, $65 remote lock module and... still didn't work. Online snooping revealed it needed to be programmed to the truck. Might as well get remote start enabled too.

$150 later for 1hr labor, we had working fobs. No remote start since the call in authorization service had been deactivated...

After that BS, I jumped on a used GM MDI for $500 when the opportunity presented itself. It's $65 for 3-day, one VIN access but I'll bet I end up money ahead by the end of the decade... ain't technology great?

Yea, I'm not mad about the $100 price. I ultimately wound up with the lights for "Free" (using GM points) and the tuning cost. So, it was $25 cheaper than ordering them on the truck (I may have mentioned that already), but it's a really nice feature to have and I'm glad I could add it.

We towed the camper 191 miles each way last weekend. We got 11-ish MPG at 70 MPH with some wind. On the way home we had 15-20 MPH head winds and we got north of 9 MPG. ON the way up the truck stayed at 1500 rpm and never shifted, even for the hills. On the way home with crazy winds, it occasionally downshifted one gear for a few moments and then went back to 1500 rpm. The old truck struggled to get 7.5 MPG on flat ground and in 17 MPH winds (gusting to 23 MPH or so) the old truck got 3.5-5 MPG and got the crap kicked out of us in the wind. This truck is super stable. The trailer blew around a little, but the truck was very stable.

I saw a tow truck that was made for semis pulling a(n) (empty!) 1-2 horse trailer about a month ago. The trailer was swaying like the dickens but of course a truck that big and heavy didn't care a bit. I was stuck behind it a long time and almost got so sick that I turned off. Trailer sway literally makes me sick. I can barely watch the Top Gear segment where they raced all those airport vehicles like the luggage train, bendy bus and the stairs truck around the tarmac.

At this point I've towed 720 miles with the new truck. It doesn't even care that there's a 9,000+ lb camper behind it. The biggest issue is speed. My 1/2 ton had "enough" (nearly enough?) power to get the job done, but it wasn't in a hurry to tow the camper at 70+ mph. So it was pretty easy to stay at reasonable speeds. This truck will happily drag the camper at 80, likely 90 and probably 100 mph. I haven't had it over 75, and I didn't mean to be going 75 at the time. It's so easy to stack on speed that you really have to be careful. I use cruise constantly to avoid speed issues. We are showing an average of 8.9 mpg towing the camper (per the towing tracking section of the factory ECM). 200 miles of that was into a 20 mph headwind. So we are likely doing better than the average. We have seen 50 mile average fuel economy of 11.3 mpg while towing. As the truck breaks in and we get more miles without a head wind I think that fuel economy will improve.

I still dislike feeding this thing due to the cost of diesel, but I really love the truck. I'd certainly pay a bit more for fuel for the capabilities that this truck has (if it was gas and I could use premium or super premium or some mythical fuel to get this level of performance....I'd pay for it). So, paying for diesel is a worthwhile trade off for the towing performance.

Glad you're enjoying the new truck, even if you're hating paying for diesel. We still dig our old '02, even with the price of diesel. Unfortunately, when we bought the '02, diesel was cheaper than gasoline, and was for a while. Then, the switch 'flipped' and hasn't returned, sadly.

Note that you be careful 'upgrading' the tires to anything larger. It will hurt the MPG, if you care about that. We were in the 18 MPG range, then went up a couple of sizes of tire on ours, which brought MPG down in the mid-14 range. Still, though, that's almost 100% of the time with the car getting dragged to different events.

The diesel prices are a bit crushing. With that said, I’ve done side by side pulls to tracks with similar trailer setups, and at “normal” towing speeds, I’d get almost double the fuel economy compared to a gasser. But with the diesel, it’s always tempting to tow that 5~10mph faster just because it can. And that just drags the fuel economy down incredibly.

This thing has 34" wheels on it from the factory with 20" wheels. I don't have any plans to increase the size of the tires on this truck. GM actually put 3.42 gears in it with the 10 speed and I'm happy with the combination.



I agree. I struggled to average 7.5 mpg with my 5.3 liter gas truck...that was including the times we ran around unloaded. Otherwise we were getting 3-6 MPG much of the time. I've heard these trucks will increase fuel mileage once they break in. A friend said that took about 20k miles on his last two diesels. I don't know exactly what the break in looks like on these trucks. I am doing a fair amount of towing. I'll likely tow 4,500 miles next summer.

I took it through the mountains of western MD and through WV and down into VA. We "reset" the "best 50 mile average" to 21.3 mpg with the cruise on 72 MPH.

That's some GREAT mileage there!

I certainly wasn't mad about it. We left central Ohio for the Hagerstown, MD area, then south to Harrisonburg, VA and then out to Elkton Va. 530 miles on a tank and 90+ miles to empty on the display. Averaged 17.0 mpg per the dish display. I have not tested it with a calculator to see how accurate it is at this time. I threw 15 gallons of diesel in it (I had cans in the bed) and drove it to the VA line (an hour and change away) and stopped at a truck stop (fuel is cheaper in VA than in WV, often by a lot). Topped it off there, drove around town for 4 days, threw a 5 gallon can in it and came back to Columbus with 8 gallons or so in the tank. Averaging another 17+ mpg for the trip home through the mountains of western MD.

A few updates.

I have 8500 miles on the truck now. a bit over 3,000 of them are towing my camper (9-10k total weight). We reset the best 50 mile fuel mileage at 23.8 mpg and the best 25 mile at 24.2 mpg. That's insane for 65-69 mph freeway cruising in a giant brick.

In interesting news, the rear tires are down to about 2/32" of tread and the fronts are about 4/32". So, I rotated the tires. But I don't think I'm going to get anywhere near the 50k mileage warranty. I don't know exactly who I'll argue with about it, but I'll figure that out as I get the rest of the way down to the wear bars. It came with Goodyear Wrangler Trailrunner AT tires. That's what the manufacturer installed. They aren't holding up at all. I don't know if it's the weight or the locking rear or both? I'm guessing when towing up mountains, the large amounts of torque are being used to lock up the locking diff and scrubbing the rears. But I'm not totally sure about that. I figure I can get Goodyear to prorate one set, and then I'm going to have to upgrade to something else. Goodyear Duratrac tires say they are a commercial A/T tire and they claim they are good for towing and high torque. I need to start checking to see if there are other options that are recommended.

I just changed the fuel filter (it was down to 39%), that job wasn't as bad as I expected. Only took me 15 minutes. I rotated the tires and found that I'm getting old. I was fighting to get them back onto the studs. The wheel and tire combo is something over 100 lbs each. My old 3500 was around 110 lbs per tire, these feel much heavier.

I need to swing by the dealer. I see a little ATF on the torque converter access plug and the flange between the engine and the transmission. Just a few drips, but I'm not expecting to see any there.

Beyond all of that, I absolutely love the truck. But it might get expensive if I have to buy new tires every 9-12 months.

Sounds like you're enjoying the thing!! I don't remember what the mileage on ours was when we did tires, but it certainly was more than 8500, even though, like yours, the truck usually had a trailer with a 3000# car on it attached to the hitch. That's awesome mileage!! I drive like an old man, and was 'only' getting high-teens MPG in our 2500. Note that the mileage did drop notably when we changed the tires. I opted for the next size up, and went from GY to Michelin. The larger size really punched the MPG in the nards.

When doing the bump stops on the B4C, I also noted how hard it was for me to lift the tires back into place. I can usually just leverage the tire between my legs and arms and boom, it's on, but really struggled with both of them this time. I guess I need to spend more time in the shop doing stuff, as I seem to have lost my touch, too, and these tires don't weigh anywhere near 100 lbs. That was one of the deciding factors on taking the bus to a shop to have PM and the rear shocks put on. I figured we could get the wheels off, which is necessary to get to the rear shocks, but would probably not be successful getting them back on, even with our tire lift, and then we'd be stuck with a bus on jack stands in the shop forever.

I think gravity is getting stronger as time passes. Yep, that's my theory!!

That's why shops these days have special tools/equipment for moving huge wheels and tires around. It's not like 1986 where they're literally tossing 175/80/13s all over the place and the biggest tire they'll see all week is a 235/75/15 off of a Squarebody.

Yea, these are 275/65-20" tires on aluminum wheels, but there's a LOT of aluminum in those wheels.


The mileage is really sweet with the 10 speed. I babied it a little (4-5 miles of 35-45 mph backroads and then onto the freeway, and then onto another and another freeway (a couple entrance ramps) and still got the numbers I saw. Previously, I set the best mileage when I hit the Ohio line coming from WV with the cruise on 73 mph. I still got 22+ mpg at 73 mph (on cruise without a trailer).


Climbing hills, it adds torque and stays in 10th as long as it can. I have the Banks display that shows "commanded torque". I've seen it call for 988 ft lbs. If that doesn't work, it shifts a gear or two. If it's a really big hill, it shifts to where the engine is at 2,400 rpm (HP peak is at 2,600 rpm) and it stays there and uses the gears to stay right there while climbing hills at any speed I want (I'm only pulling a bit less than half of the rated towing capacity). At 3,000 rpm the gears are about 300 rpm drop as it shifts. So at 2,400 it has about 240 rpm between gears. Basically, it always has a gear to put it at the HP peak. It climbs and shifts and just makes boost and "thrust". It's much different than towing with gas.

Guess it's time for an update. I put new tires on it at 19,675 miles. The oem tires were down to about 5/32" of tread. That's not "illegal", but it was getting pretty slick in the rain. Leaving traffic lights at light throttle resulted in wheel spin when I hit the white stripe. Turning left at traffic lights would let the locker lock up and I'd go around tail out (not driving like an idiot even). So, I put new Cooper "highway off road" tires on it. A friend has them on a Dodge 2500 diesel and they have held up well. Sadly, I don't like how they tow. The truck wanders and they feel really soft and "squishy". It rides like a 1500, but it tows like one two. Oh well,l I have them now.

I took it to the dealer for the tailgate recall (the switch gets wet and the tailgate opens randomly. Mine has not actually opened, but I got it done. I also told them the DEF tank level was all over the place. It went from full (8 bars on the graph) to 3 bars, to 5, to 4, to 8, back to 3, etc. They flashed the computer and that was supposed to fix it. They also filled the DEF tank. That was Thursday (it's now Sunday). Yesterday I went up to work on the camper (it got new goodyear endurance tires after one exploded last week and damaged the camper, so I'm fixing that) and as I left, it said DEF empty, 500 miles until 65 mph top speed and a few other warnings. I have a bit over 20k miles on the truck. I'm starting to understand why people just delete these things. I'm also starting to consider trading it for a gas truck. If it pulls this crap while I'm 900 miles from home and pulling a trailer, then what? So, it's going back to the dealer tonight (I scheduled it to come back before all the alerts went crazy). It was also doing frequent regens. Like every 50 miles. I think the DPF is getting clogged up. And the check engine light is on for NOx sensor issues.

I love the truck, but I may not keep it very long. We actually spent last night talking about the truck and camper and possibly selling the camper and trading the truck on a 1500 again. We will see where we go and how irritated I get with it. I still really love the truck, but I don't know if I'm going to put up with the headaches for long.

There are claims that some of the diesel fuel treatments really help the regen crap. A Yuutoober puts this in his Screw and claims it really helps with that: Archoil AR6500 Diesel Treatment (40.6 oz). I dunno, but was thinking of getting some for the bus and 2500HD. Neither are DEF machines, but the stuff is said to help with top end lube, which is important on older diesels with newer fuel. Seems to do it all. Real snake oil, huh?

I run Diesel Power Service (silver bottle summer and white bottle winter). I just ran a bottle of the Archoil DPF filter treatment and it seemed to help the frequent regens. It's currently at the dealer for them to sort out all of the lights and warnings. I'm expecting a new NOx sensor and likely a new DEF tank (the sensors are built in and not serviceable, it's also a $500+ part). Probably more flashing of the computer and god knows what else they'll find. Hopefully I have it back before I need it next. Parts have been a challenge for these trucks lately.

Perhaps stories like this are why Ford brought back the "Big Block" for their trucks.

I think we're waaayyyy past the 'supply chain' BS, and the manufacturers have found it a good way to move from just-in-time inventories to 'order it when needed' inventories. Frees up a lot of shelf space. They blame it on 'supply chain', and the public is none the wiser. Really sucks for dealer repairs, and even recalls where you have to drop your vehicle off for work and it sits in the lot for weeks while they're WOP.

But I'm not bitter!!

I'm trying to find one in stock that I can go drive. I'm thinking I might want to consider the 7.3 liter Ford. But I'm not sure. I hate to go back to the awful fuel mileage. Maybe it is time to sell the camper and just buy another 1500?

At this point, parts are supposed to arrive tomorrow. Of course they were supposed to arrive last Monday too. Thus, they have had the truck for most of 3 weeks now and I suspect it will be another week or so before I get it back....assuming the parts actually arrive. This is getting frustrating.

In for the gas vs diesel discussion. I'm planning years ahead for my next tow/daily purchase and always thought diesel truck is the holy grail. I've towed with one and it does do a great job but rides rough especially when not towing and cost so much even used. And even a quad cab doesn't haul the family plus friends like a suburban or Yukon XL would.

I'm currently driving an 08 Yukon Denali and the 6.2 does much better than the 5.3 for power and fuel mileage. I've got 15mpg while towing if AC is off and I keep it 55 and easy on the hills but typical is more like 12 towing and 15 around town daily driving. Handling isn't bad either with Fox shocks, Eibach sways, weight distro hitch and air bag helpers. I do have intake, exhaust and tune for a little extra power too but I imagine the newer 6.2 with 10 speed trans would do even better.

Based on cost, comfort and your review Kevin, I'm starting to lean back towards another 6.2 SUV, with the 2015-2020 Denali/Escalade being my favorite. Wonder if they would let me test drive tow one, lol.

My friend is on his 5-6th diesel truck. I always said "With all the ways these things break, I'll never own one". I amended that to say "I'll never own one out of warranty". So, I bought one. I mean, they can't all be bad....right?

I did find out that parts came in and they plan to start mine today. With any luck, I'll have it back by the weekend. That would be really handy. I have truck things to do (hauling a bunch of recycling/cardboard to the dumpsters and scrapping some rugs that need to go, etc. The Camaro is much more fun to drive, but it's a lousy truck.

I'm hoping this is the last issue I have with it. I don't know that it will be the case, but I can hope. I may buy the HP tuners tool to "unencrypt" the computer and carry that with me on the road. If I'm ever in Florida with a camper and I get "speed limited to 5 mph", I might fix it. I don't want or intend to delete it. I might just fix the "penalty" for emissions issues. Change it to "1,500 miles until speed limited to 358 mph" and get it to leave me alone. That's my biggest issue with the diesels. They slow you down and down and eventually it's 5 mph. No other vehicles get this for a check engine light. They just run them forever. So, why diesels? I am not sure what the answer is....assuming it acts up again.

I got 5-7.5 mpg towing the camper with my 5.3. I fear a 7.3 Ford would be worse, same for a 6.6 GM truck. I have averaged 9.2 mpg towing my camper with the diesel (at 73 mph most of the time). I'd do a lot better if I slowed down....but who does that?

Also, to be fair, I think my 3500 rides fine. My father in law has a 2022 2500 diesel and I feel like mine rides better than his. His will get really bouncy over rough stuff. Mine hits the helper springs (3500 springs) if there's enough travel and it keeps you off the bumpstops. If you're ever considering a 2500, just buy a 3500 "Single Rear Wheel" truck. The cargo capacity difference is 600-800 lbs. But 800 lbs is enough to cover people and stuff and leave you the capacity of the 2500 "leftover" to do work.

I appreciate all the info, maybe i just need to do some casual test drives at different dealerships on lunch break. That's always fun anyways, as long as i don't get carried away and buy something i wasn't planning on! And evaluate my financial situation when the time comes, if things keep going the way they are i might drive this Yukon until I die...

Towing is tough to slow down. I always start out doing the speed limit and tell myself I have plenty of time but before i know I NEED to get to the track now! I've never towed a camper and have a open car hauler since I've heard how bad gas mileage is with enclosed. Seems like the more powerful the engine the better the mileage given all else is equal. I get much better mileage with my 6.2 than lots of people i talked to with 5.3 whether its in a truck or SUV. Far from scientific of course though.

If your FIL is still running the OEM shocks, well, there's your problem right there. We got Bilstiens from Sam before we got metal plates for our 2500, and never looked back. I also put a turn, or two, into the. torsion bar adjusters to gain just a bit more room between the control arms and bump stops. That also got the truck a bit more level.

We got our 2500 when the price of diesel and the mileage was a real advantage. Within a year, though, diesel prices went through the roof. The mileage is still there, and I added a front chin spoiler off a hybrid Suburban which gained us a solid 1 MPG better mileage. We averaged 18.6 towing to Topeka to Nationals one year. Kind of pissed a friend off when he rolled in to the hotel parking lot bragging about his 14 MPG he got out of his 1500HD gasser.

When I towed our Lemons car to Flat Rock Speedway, a friend was following us in his 550 RWHP turbo (last gen) Supra. We got separated at a traffic light in a small town in the dark at 11pm or whatever. 15 minutes later my phone rings. He says "where are you guys, I've been doing 80 for 15 minutes and I haven't see you". I said "that's because you're not catching us, we're doing 85 mph". He replied "hang on, be there in a second". A few seconds later I see headlights appear out of nowhere. He apparently spooled the turbo and went into warp drive.

I put fox shocks on mine at 230 miles on the odometer (seriously, they were gone almost instantly). My father in law calls and says his truck is bouncing while towing. He asked if he needed helper springs. I said "No, you need shocks". He put Fox shocks on his truck and now he loves it.

They didn't quite get it done today. I will likely see it early next week. Oh well, just as long as it's "right". I'll keep you posted.

I couldn't get it Friday. I ultimately got it Tuesday. It took 32 days, but it's home.

I finally deleted my Touareg because it wanted it's second DEF pump. I normally don't drive it enough so the stuff crystallized and clogs the system. That change really had no impact on towing MPG, but daily driving is a good bump up to 29 or so. I'm not sure I'd go diesel whenever it gets replaced by a truck now that all the delete options are disappearing. I'm a guy who really isn't a fan of deletes, but has two deleted TDIs after getting fed up trying to keep the systems alive.

And on the topic of mpg, the one time I slowed down to 70 it was getting 28mpg with the empty open trailer. 21mpg at 75 with a normal car on it, and only 18 with an Acty sticking up in the wind.

They have cracked the 20-23 ECM. You can delete my truck now. I absolutely don't want to. It doesn't stink, it's quiet, etc. I love that it makes less noise while towing than my 5.3 did. It just sails up mountains while towing with no real noise at all. I intend to keep it that way...so far.

That's an option while it lasts. The VW aftermarket has always been a smaller fish than the big trucks, and they largely left Canadian companies alone. A few weeks ago they shut down the biggest maker of delete hardware in the VW space even though they are operating from Canada.

All of these places only have a limited time left.

Sounds like it's time to start up a company called "Cayman Islands Tuning"