FS 1 X-brace for a convertible F-body.

I can't figure how it attaches. I know it attaches at the tunnel brace and then somewhere else.

Two things cold be effecting why I don't see how it attaches. My car is an LT1, and an automatic. I got it from a guy with a T-56 and a LS1.

Knowing whether it will work for YOU is on YOU.

$40 plus shipping.

Selling because my torque arm's mount will bolt in place of the tunnel brace making it impossible to use it, even when a T-56 goes in.

I'm interested - do you have any pics?

Does it bolt or weld on?

Is iy strong enough to use as a jacking rail, with a pad to spread the load (like the stock lift points)?

Would it preclude a driveshaft safety loop such as the SLP version?

What does it weigh?

Sean it bolts on. 4 bolts hold it on at the stock location where the stock stamped crossmember is. Then it has two more forward positions. I couldn't figure where that bolted but think it's because it's not a manual.

It weighs about 10-15lbs.

Might be able to use it as a jacking point, but its way under the car. It is only as wide as the stock stamped crossmember.

Because it bolts there, I don't think it could be used with a driveshaft loop. It may be possible to bolt the brace over the loop but not sure.

I posted looking for pictures on the LS1.com Covertible section. I would do a search, as I think I got some replies if I remember correctly. I would look for it myself but since I'm banned I didn't bother.

I found the thread. The brace is a lot smaller than I had imagined. It won't be useful as a jacking rail. I'm also not sure if it will clear my late-model Y-pipe. Do you know the model year for the car it came off of?

I'm going to have to do a little peeking underneath tomorrow.

I'll take it. FedEx Ground service is usually cheapest for me (generally about half of UPS Ground). My zip is 40383.

it's a flimsy metallic piece that I don't see can have any structural strength at all.
I had mine removed... and put a SLP driveshaft loop.

I have one very specific purpose in mind.

When I jack up the rear corners of my t-top car to change tires at every autocross, the chassis flexes quite a bit. I can already tell a difference in the way the doors fit.

I wish the mounts for the brace were farther apart, but when a corner is lifted the brace should be in tension from the corner nearest the jack to the diagonally opposite corner. Even a sheet metal stamping should help in that condition.

I don't expect it to improve the handling on flat pavement much if any, I'm just trying to keep it from flexing as far while I change tires.

I didn't realize this was a thread that was started soliciting opinions on the parts worth...

Oh yeah it isn't

Did I claim ANY kind of structural benifits in the orginal posting?

No, you didn't make any claims, but I did ask a question about it's strength to help me know "whether it will work" for me, and Eugenio was responding to that question.

I'm still not sure whether it will clear the exhaust on my 2001 with pup cats, but now I understand what the part is (a tension brace for the section of the tunnel/backbone that bridges the door and roof cutouts) and what it is NOT (a subframe connector).

I'm still buying it. I would love to have SFC/jacking rails if they were legal, but for the amount of body deflection I'm seeing while changing tires, a tension brace should be an improvement.

was not my intent... just answered a question with my opinion and experience. :leaving:
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