i need the install video that came with the shift kits they sell, if some one has a copy they could part with. thanks.

I have one. I just finished my install 2 weeks ago. You can have it...

sweet! how much would you like for it and do you take paypal?
wasn't very hard to install was it?

How is the shiftkit working out for you for AX/RR duties? Do you use the stock shifter for it, or did you get something else for the auto-shifting?

Just shipping. I don't know how much that will be, let's say $4.


It wasn't hard to install. Well, getting the servo's out of the side was kind of a pain. I had to figure out a way to keep the pin pushed in, while I tried to slide the servo out. Sliding the servo out tries to slide the pin out too.

I watched the video, then followed the instructions (since the instructions override the video).

There is one thing they show you on the video that isn't included in this version of the shift kit. It's some type of cover on the side of the valve body. So you don't have to take that piece off after all.

There's one thing on the video that is on the last page of the instructions, but the instructions don't show you where it is. I had to go back to the video to find out for sure. It's the boost valve, and it's right up under the pump.

ok great whats your paypall address John? thanks

I left the stock shifter in it.

I have moved my shift points around a little bit using hptuners.

Saw a cool video yesterday of a prototype paddle shifter in an old Camaro...

It's a little tricky to drive road racing. Not too bad for autocross. For autocross I just put it in second and for the most part I leave it there. I might downshift it if I want it to hold 1st gear for a bit even if I let off the throttle.

For road racing, I left it in third. (it's good for about 135 mph in 3rd....)
But I found that sometimes I wanted to put it in second so I could hold it there even though I was going to let off. And it was always in the back of my mind - is this thing going to do a sudden expected downshift on me when accelerating, especially in a sweeper?

Umm...that's not what I heard how that works. The version I heard is that if you put it in D it drives like any other auto, but when you put it in 3, it will stay in 3, no upshifts, no downshifts.
I keep rereading your post, and I frankly can't tell the difference between the shiftkit behavior you describe and the regular A4.
My main two reasons for getting it were:
1. Holding it in gear, ie approaching a corner in 2nd, so it doesn't shift to 3rd as soon as I get on the brakes, and then get (violently) punched back to 2nd, as I'm trying to be all smooth about it :/
2. Ability to downshift on command--I tried that few times with a stock trans, and it does work, as I go in 3rd, and then I need to reduce to 2nd for a corner, I just put the shifter in 2nd, as I am on the brakes. It works. I'm not sure if it's 'healthy' for the trans, but it does work.

So who's version is closer to reality, and what's the point of putting it in, if still can downshift in a sweeper on it's own?

There is a version of the shift kit, called Shift Command or something like that if I remember right. It converts the tranny to a full manual control. That's not the version I got. It requires you to always shift the tranny yourself. (maybe it does retains automatic functionality in D/4 - not sure one way or the other about that.)

The base version that I got just contains some different springs, spacers, valves, etc. to improve valve actuation, accumulator action, and boost valve pressure. For faster/firmer shifts, and better holding power in gear. Also included drilling some holes bigger in the separator plate, and a couple of mods to protect one of the screens in the separator plate from getting sucked closed.

I also installed a billet servo for better holding power when it's in 4th (when it's running on the 4th band vs. a clutch), and a deeper pan with a lowered pickup to keep from uncovering the pickup/filter on hard launches (most noticeable on the 2-3 shifts at the strip).

I modified my downshift points via hptuners too.

At full throttle I have to be going less than 65 for a 3->2 downshift
(or less than 3100 rpms)


For the 2->1 downshift it has to be going less than 30 mph.
(or less than 2400 rpms)


I may still drop those down even lower. It's got pretty good torque numbers, so I can get by without it downshifting so easily. Going through a 3000 rpm stall torque converter helps with that aspect quite a bit.


When I set those downshift points, it was more with the goal of not having a downshift, if the new rpms were going to be more than 5000 (avoids a downshift and a very short burst at the top of the rpm band, then upshifting again, better to just leave it where it is...)

Except for the 2-1 downshift, I didn't want it to catch 1st and bust the tires loose when I'm already going 35-40 mph... So I lowered the mph even more. That way I can floor it at 35 if I want to, and it will stay in 2nd. That worked out good for exiting the back to back 180's at the Nashville Superspeedway. It still wanted to get tail happy coming out in second. It would have been all over with if it grabbed 1st...