Looking for a good price on the pan and the pickup. I don't think any of our sponsors list it on their web sites.

Sam??

I bought mine from Internet Racers Supply (racenet.net) quite a while back. They still have the pans listed for $260; not a bad price. I would call and make sure they have them in stock. My past experience has been that if they have them in stock, you'll get them right away. If not, you will be wondering what happened.

Yeh, I've heard not so good things about Internet Racer's Supply. Maybe I'll try the phone call method you suggest.

Thanks for the suggestion of calling Sam, Steve. I'll try him next.

Posting this question was my way of also finding out what the going price should be for the pan. I had thought it would be about $275, but wasn't sure. I tried Thunder Racing and they were considerably more than that. I didn't see it in my Summit catalog.

I bought my 242T Pan and 20-020 pickup from one of the guys who ebays 'em. $307 for the pan and pickup, no shipping or handling charges. Dropped shipped from canton. $279 for the pan and I talked him down a couple bucks to $28 for the pickup.
it was bonacore-speedshop at hdmx250@yahoo.com
I didn't order from racenet.net because they charge $8.50 handling and I would also have had to pay 0.085% sales tax, in state Texas.

I thought IRS went out of biz a long time ago.

They used to be THE place ...

I picked one up for a customer build from Andris (TTZ28).

Jason S.

Nutek

I called Canton today. They'll happily sell to me. List on that pan is $325. Because I don't carry them, and to this point havent' bought one, meet any of the 3 discount levels let alone the WD pricing, I'll do what I can.

It won't be retail, but it won't be $260 either (which is less than my cost is). FWIW, I looked around and racenet.net is $279.95 now......

As for delivery. I'd get it right from Canton, and they didn't seem to be adverse to drop-shipping.

Not to step on anyone's toes here, but I bought mine right from Canton. The guy said something like... "give me the right answer" when he asked if I was a business.

I'm not sure if I would order from them again since they charged $25 just to weld the pickup on the pump. This is from the same guy above who said it was a real nominal charge.

A 242T or a 244T pan?

The 242T shows to be a direct bolt in for 93-97 F-Bods

A 244T shows to be a 86 and newer with 1 piece seal

The 244T desciption I found says this ...



I can't find a similar description for the 242T, other than "a direct bolt in". Maybe it means it requires no modification?

The reason I'm asking is I have found a used 244. But want to make sure I am getting what I need ...

That's a good question Mitch. I've only heard of people using the 242T for the 4th gens.

#15-242T pan for direct bolt-in, '93-97 F-Bodies.
#15-244 pan for pre-80 blocks with left side dipstick.
#15-244M pan for 80 to 85 blocks with right side dipstick.
#15-244T pan for 86 and newer blocks with a one piece seal.

So the 244T will work, with the potential modifications outlined, correct?

Mitch,

Do you have or are you getting an LT1? I would not buy the 244 for an LT1 unless you are personally going to notch and re-weld it. I have gone through a nightmare trying to get it to work on my car; spent hundreds re-working the pan, raising the motor, new motor mounts, etc, and it still is not right. Finally it is not hitting the steering rack, but under max torque will hit the power steering lines and causes fluid to be sprayed all over the engine compartment. The 242 was not available when I bought my 244. Also, the 244 is not compatible with certain headers which use a front-side Y pipe. Or, do some MORE cutting and re-welding.

If you plan on getting it, I would be glad to tell you what must be done from the get-go. Email me for my phone #. The 244 does have more oil capacity and a superior system of trap doors.

OK ... I'll confess ...

There is a 244T for sale on another forum, supposedly "modified" to fit.
It looks like JB Weld, to me and asked such a question.

The asking price is VERY reasonable (about 1/2) compared to the net pricing I've seen.

On a Tech search, I found a post where one person's experience was much like yours, Bob, while the next guy had no issues at all.

Also, the pictures I've seen of these pans, certainly look like thin wall sheet meatal, welded up ... warped and wrinkled, leading me to think they are rather flimsy and prone to leakage.

What about Milodon or Stefs pans ... any experience?

The guy who is building my engine specializes in building American Sedan Chevy engines. Many of them use Milodon pans, but the baffle system in the pan is apparently not so great for road racing. During braking they can uncover the pickup. He modifies the pickup location when using a Milodon pan and reworks the interior of the pan some. I'd stick with a Canton as I don't hear of these problems with the Canton pan.

Mitch, we've run the canton pans on the road race car (several of them....because they are not connecting rod proof). Never had a leak. They are steel pans, but they have always fit well for us.

I've got the 242t. It is sheet metal fabrication but is a decently made piece. I have heard of some folks having leakage at the pan rail though. If it is a problem, Felpro p/n 93173 should fix it. It is a heavy rubber one piece gasket. FYI I also have a Stef's transmission pan on a street car of mine. (aluminum fabbed) I checked the thing on a flat surface and it seemed to be true. I used an ordinary trans gasket and the thing leaked at the rail, plus I had to grind clearance for the shift selector before it would seat fully. I had to silcone the gasket to use it. (not a good deal because you have to pry the thing loose now to drop the pan) Not to be knocking Stef's but there are problems from time to time with all things "hot rod."

I have the 242T in my car.
here are some pics w/ it installed. no clearance problems.
the drain plugs leaks a bit, maybe needs a new washer.
only a few minutes on the engine after the rebuild (now have a bad lifter) so no comment on any other leakage issues
http://www.vilipend.com/~frrax/Oil-System

Morgan, that shore is purdee ...

it works with stock Y pipe dang :leaving:

Mitch, I have a strange feeling that we've talked to the same guy. I'm tempted to just go ahead and jump on it for the cost and then if it doesn't work try selling it to a third-gen owner.

I decided to pass on it ...

Look at the pics he sends very closely ...

JB Weld ...