Are the old seat belt attach points good to use for the lap section of a 5 point harness using the original torx bolt and back plate of sorts?
Checking an idea of coarse. If this is wrong can someone help?

The shoulders of coarse are gonna wrap the horizontal bar of main hoop. But the submarine belt I am wondering about too.

Tony

I used the stock locations for the lap belts. The factory torks bolts were too short when retaining the factory belts. I used some longer metric 10.9 (SAE Grade 8) bolts of the appropriate thread, of which I cannot recall.
If you can find them, you might try and get metric 12.9 bolts
drivers side, outer
drivers side, outer #2
drivers side, inner

As you can see in the 2nd pic, I had to bend the tabs a bit to fit well w/ the stock belts still mounted. I also enlarged the bolt holes in my particular harness a bit so they would be slightly loose on the bolt, allowing free movement.

Arent those OE torx bolts 10.9 ? I wont have an issue with length.The sock belts wont remain.
But may have a length issue as far attaching a back plate on the underside. But if I remember correct those bolts protruded quite a bit under the car.

But yeah maybe 12.9 would be better. Well its good to know that this may be a viable attach point. But I do want the optimal method to be known if this is it we'll see??? Most safe. And a idea of the submarine attach method.

Thanks Morgan pics are always best BTW pic 2 do you have that bolt not tighter for photography purposes?

for the submarine belt, you'll need a bracket fab'ed
I don't have any links handy, but I have seem them for sale through a few different shops.
Actually, no. The bolt is tightened down. The stock torks bolt has a shank w/ a shoulder above the threads. The bolt would tighten down to the shoulder. The factory belt bracket/tab then pivots freely around the bolt. the one I used had a bit of a shank w/ no thread. I just tightened it down until the end of the threads hit 'backing plate' with the same result.

If you have a length issue, just cut off the excess bolt length.

Was meaning that they should be long enough..... cut some off it it bothers you Tony



Guys can the sub. belt wrap around and under the seat and mount to the seat mount?Its all welded steel tubing and flat stock?
Otherwise I was thinking(the belt has tabs) throw a 22degree bend on the tabs about 3/4" in .Then 4"x4"x1/4" back plate smaller 2"x2"x1/4" top plate and the tab sandwiched between all bolt on or is that overkill? I could weld the back plate to chassis??
Morgan I have seen the eyelets and quick connects in catalogs if thats what you are talking about? I cant put much trust in those they look weak.

I'm still not convinced that the lap belt is best mounted in the old seat belt bolt hole being good enough. I mean it seems doable and easy BUT is it good enough common practice?

Can I get some more help here you guys????

I'm using a 6 pt. belt and put the lap belts in the original belt holes with new bolts. My lap belt metal hooks had too small of a hole diameter to use my factory Torx bolts and allow the plate to slide onto the shank (nonthreaded) part of the bolt. I went down to a local fastening place and found some good bolts to use instead.

I couldn't mount a brace very well in my car since I'm using a Corbeau adjustable seat base. My adjusting lever was right in the way of where sub belt would go. So, I got a 6 pt. and mounted the leg belts to the lap belt bolts. It works very well and no safety inspector has had any issue with it. I think a 6 pt. belt is a better way to go for safety anyway.