I have to get the windshield out to finish some stuff and I plan to replace w/ Percys SG. Does anybody have any personal experience removing the windshield.

I have done this before a long time ago(differ car) with a little hand held cutter bend to a 90 and a little pull cable for the other hand. It looks like the glue is deep though not like before.I figure this glass is worth something if I can get it out in one peice

Any tips?

Tony

The tools you describe is what we used. My windshield came out in one piece, but I left it at my cage builder's for 2 weeks after I trailered my car back home. One day during that period the windshield fell over and a corner of it cracked. Already had it sold too.

Percy's sells a bond-in place windshield I believe, but we used the rivet type.

I tried too with the same tools......after a few frustrating trys and it cracked while pushing on it....it came out with the HAMMER!

When ordering speed glass, ask for blem prices. Save tons w/o any real impact on vision.

sTeve

Windshield removal is a pain. If you're going the destructo route a la Randy, have some fun and take a tooth sized piece of porcelain from a spark plug you've got laying around and throw it at the glass. There's some magical reaction that occurs that results in the whole thing shattering, but not in an explosive sort of way. It's like tendrils just move through the glass. You've really got to see it to believe it.

Jason

The odds of removal w/o breaking a glass that large, on that angle, are relatively slim. Try a guitar string secured to two pieces of pvc pipe (as handles). Start at a top corner, work across and then down. Do the top and both sides before doing the bottom. One person on each handle. If/ when the glass cracks, rapid removal is accomplished by use of BFH. Good Luck!

Mike gosh darnit... Now unsure I was planning on p/n 01141-3. I don't know if that will be the correct one its the one they have listed for my car :shrug: I do want the one everyone else uses. I thought they only had one and the benifit was its prefit/cut. And all you do is put clips and rivets in a few different spots around it.
Hmm that makes me think is there any write ups on this install?

Jason(Jknight) that is interesting and if things go south...well I will give it a try for kicks

Steve good idea to see if they have any blems... yeah I remember that post

From the sound of things odds don't look to good for getting it out in one peice.I'll get the stinkin little tool and try though. Oh its gonna bust I can tell I should just hit it with the porcelain and finish her w/ the BFH Naw worth a try.

Thanks for the replys guys!

I guess I'll be doing this in a few months. My mechanic is a pro at this. I've helped him do numerous windshields. Other shops used to call him in to do windshield jobs for them. Can't wait to lose the wait.

It all comes down to technique and practice, just like anything.

About the Lexan window. Has anybody used the install kit they have for it? I believe the kit is the bonding that Mike reffered to earlier. And it protects the edges also like a rubber molding. Wonder if I should get it...

I cant find any criteria on the install/requirments of lexan windshields in the CCR or the AI rules. What gives? Well I found min. thickness 3/16".

Cant I just get some double sided puffy tape for between body and lexan. Follow up with the little aluminum clips w/ 2 screws each countersunk and the 2 vertical braces center. Clips at about 12" apart around edge. All after paint like Randys around the edge on the inside.

Is this the right way?

I believe the install kit I got last winter included the rubber stripping you mention and the rivets. The windshield needed to be trimmed a little to fit just right.

I didn't install vertical braces to support the window and my windshield was flexing a little at around 100 MPH and above at Putnam. It was a little disconcerting I must tell you and I planned to add the braces after that race. I got the 3/16" thick version for weight.

So Mike... is there a "proper" and or "suggested"way listed somewhere in the rules? I cant find anything on it.

The only thing I saw in the rules was the minimum thickness, as you saw. After that I'd suggest rivets (a little cleaner aerodynamically I'd think) and put 2 braces behind it to strengthen it. I don't think there's too much more to it.

I'll be doing this install around March. Steve D gave me some pictures already, but any other help (good kits, bad kits) would be helpful since you guys are doing it now. I'm definitely puttin braces in since I'm going for 3/16" also.

You need to trim some material off of the lexan piece that they sned you. Determine the area of visibility that you want and paint the INSIDE of the lexan so that it looks good and masks the stuff you don't want to see. &'s Only gave us this tip after we painted the outside of our rear lexan. Painting the inside makes for a finished look.

For attachment just use some sort of black sealant and make some brackets out of aluminum stock. Recess the drill holes and use screws that will fit, so that it is a nice fit.

I can take pics if needed (although we just removed the front windshield to cut some pieces off the front dash area).

Jason

http://www.vilipend.com/~frrax/album04

I can take more pics as well....the windsheild is out now.....

...and I just cut the ENTIRE FRONT end off the car....

....oh, what have I done.....

I looked at your pictures a while back. More would be better now that you know what we are looking for!

OK...like I said the window is out now, so I can get better pics....I forgot my camera last night, so I will get some up in a few days...

Muchos gracias!

Thought I'd drop in here and thank everyone who has helped so far Might need something later though...

AND STEVE !!! THANK YOU SIR FOR REMINDING ME ABOUT THE BLEMS

I GOT A WICKED DEAL!! I'm doing both front and rear I got the install kits also. I plan to tint the rear GOT TO!! They have more guys :leaving:

The Blems I obtained from Percy were about as perfect as I could expect. As I recall, the discount was GIGANTIC. I never did find the section of lexan that led them to classify them as blems. Their loss and my/our gain.

steve

Here are my latest pics....







lemme know if you are looking for specific pics....I have it all apart now for your viewing pleasure....

Randy-

Thanks!!! The more pictures, the merrier! You, Steve, they all help!!

Friday Nite Camaro windshield removal thing is something I can go a whole lifetime and not do again! Not hard really just sucky.

The windshield removal tool described above will help get the glue IN AREAS,NOT ALL. But helps get the window away from frame in places to take the BFH and the smallest prybar in the set sharpened to scape the glue from under the window. The window is still in ONE shattered piece though

Actually the window tool gets about 50% of it so it does have SOME merit. Its not going to get the window out in on piece, but will help the task.

Problem is the glue on our winshields does not keep next to the edge of window in area being so far in the tool cant touch it.

And the rear gosh darnit,has 2 strips of glue outer/inner about 3"s between each other. Suprisingly enough the window tool did get the outer strip of glue 80%+. Even more wierd is the inner strip of glue I pounded the small sharpened prybar all the way around the inner edge to release the glue 1/2' at a time.BE CAREFUL not to damage fiberglass I didnt but you can real easy if not careful.
The weirdest part I was not nice to it at all and it came out in on piece,UNBROKEN w/ some minor scratches on the tint thats all .

Well back to the motor removal :yawn:

(Warning Shards of glass will pop all over)
don't forget wrap around safety glasses
hat helps keep glass from hair
a shop vac help keep the mess minimal
keep your mouth shut

Tony

Keep us posted on the rear Lexan install...I still have stock glass because it looks so much nicer, and the Lexan looks like it would be "fun" to get in there with the big bends and all.....plus budget $$$'s are otherwise committed now....

But soon.....so take some pics and keep us posted.

The rear lexan has really good shape as it comes from them. Already has the curve in it pretty neat just a little oversize at the bottom. Which is the first thing I want to run by you guys.

So the install kit has taper head flush mount screws. So counter sink the holes on the lexan correct,with the taper shaving type counter sink bit? What would you say is a good margin for the screws to edge of lexan to keep from cracking out in future or in general... 1/2" ? I don't know how sensitive this stuff is.

I have checked 4 hardware stores for the aluminum T stock. Oh I have found tubing in all sizes which might be used for some other things I'm gonna do. Found aluminum flat bar,angle bar,channel but no damn T bars. The channel stock though might be alright for braces,its double sides might provide good strength? Seems most rigid and less twisting the angle stock does when flexed. I also thought I could just screw two pieces of angle together to form a T. Coarse thats double cost

Any thoughts?

I'll put picks up when done,its going to be tinted rear and the black out edging.

Edited: To add the pics, did not tint windscreen http://community.webshots.com/photo/149499...283295175TJGPHb
http://community.webshots.com/photo/149499...278602143bKIOxz
http://community.webshots.com/photo/149499...278601802BLXunR
http://community.webshots.com/photo/149499...278601517ipeHSe