Hey all. New here, but I recognize some names from the thirdgen world.

Fellow I know is interested in a few rims I have. Another guy where I used to live put him '98 SS into the woods, and I got three of his 17*9.5 rims and a new 285 tire when he upgraded. One of those deals that you can't pass up. Anyway, after sitting in the shed for a couple seasons (been in college, car is sleeping) he's offering a trade.

First option is a set of Koni Yellows, slightly used, single adjustable.
Second option is a 9-bolt 3.23 posi disc rear, complete. (currently have 10-bolt 2.73 drum peg-leg)

I'm running a 1986 Z28 with some beginner mods to get me into ESP. Would I be best suited getting the shocks, rear, or ponying up some cash for another rim and some tires?

Mods as of now: 1.5" Jamex drop springs, Delco HD shocks/struts, SSM subframe connectors, wonderbar, 3point strut brace, 383/A4 (plans for manual swap), curently running 16*8 GM crosslace wheels.

Opinions?

SFC's will kick you out of ESP (unless something has changed). That's why I run SM or CP with my car.

I'd probably grab the axle. If you can't put power down, the rest won't matter much.

Then, I'd wish for the Koni shocks.

Hmm, maybe things have changed. The club I race with isn't sticky either way, not like I'm competitive at this point yet.

I was thinking of the axle too, bang for the buck-wise.

I'm not sure I'd call a used clutch-posi a good bang-for-the-buck trade. They don't seem to last all that long in competitive driving. Once they wear out, they are basically an open diff.

I don't know if A T2R is available for a 3rd gen with some flavor of ESP-legal axle, but if a clutch posi is the only choice I'd want a new one.

I'd go for the shocks.

Good point, I was assuming the Posi was "good".

The posi is in working condition, but I suppose my angle on it would be a better starting point in the first place. 9Bolt is stronger, discs are better, etc. He's leaning toward the shocks, as they're easier to ship, I'd be content to drive the wheels to him and drive the rear home.

But the 9bolt is also harder to find parts for, and lacks any aftermarket support.

what are you goals for the car. My view on thirdgen rear-ends, has always been, that if you plan on making enough power, that an upgraded 10bolt is not enough, then a 12bolt, or 9" is probably in order.

Don't get me wrong, the 9bolt is a descent peice, but with no aftermark differentials available, not girdle available, and gears costing an arm and a leg. I wouldn't choose it for a car that will be used for competition or even regulare HPDE use.

Good to note.

Uses for the car will be hotlap days, autocross and generally a backroad blaster.

Better to get the shocks, then, and maybe upgrade to a Gen4 rear when $$ allows, or just pony up for the rest of the 17" setup??

What is the draw to the 4thgen rear? it is the same rear-end as the 3rdgen 10bolt, only diffrence is the width, and the brakes. Again, my opinion on this, is I would rather spend the money it costs for a 4thgen rear, or a 9bolt, and put that money towards a brake upgrade. If you have a drum rear, swaping the LS1 rear brakes is actualy a very is swap. The backing plates for the 3rdgen drums, are almost identical to the LS1 cars. I would take the Koni's (Assuming it is all 4 corners). Then save a couple of hundred bucks, and watch ebay, I picked up a brand new Eaton Posi for my car, cost: $100.

Noted. Brake upgrade was in the cards anyway. Good call.

The LS1 rear brakes, are also a good match for the C4HD upgrade (which is the same as the Baer Track system). so you can be in likely under $1k to upgrade brakes front and rear.

For sure. Turns out he wanted to trade only for a front set of struts. I passed on the deal. :drive:

3 SS rims are probably not worth a whole lot. SLP was selling "new" take off rims (pulled off of cars that were in their shop, most had 5 or 10 miles on them) for $399 and that was for 4 basically new ones.

I'm not trying to tell you what to do, just that the days of "$700 SS rims" are pretty much over. I sold my 16" Z28 rims for $80 off of my 2002 Camaro. $80 was for a set of 4, you can't give them away. The 17's are a little better. I paid $225 shipped (shipped about 1,200 miles) for 4 of them last year.

Anyway. Just thought I'd mention it (in case you were holding out for what may not be realistic in terms of money for them).

I forgot to mention it earlier, welcome to frrax!

That is a good point.

And the front stuts are the large bulk of the cost on the Koni's. You might need to look around, but i would guess you can get 2 rear Koni's new, for about $150.

Trackbird -- where did you find 4 of them for $225 shipped? For that price, i would love to pick up a set of the 10spoke SS wheels.

http://frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?act=ST&...861&hl=10+spoke

And, they are in fine shape. 2 little nicks in the paint (not "real"curb rash).

Then, I bought 4 more with Nitto 555RII tires on them for $400 from someone on the board. Then, I bought (and recently sold) a set of forgelines 17x11 and 17x9.5's (2 of each) for $575 plus freight. Those were advertised here too. If I bought 4 forgelines for $575, I'm not buying 3 SS rims for that (and many others probably wont either, I don't think).

Again, just sharing my experiences (not trying to tell you what to do).

we need to change your title from admin to..... wheel collector.

I'll have to keep my eye out on the classifieds section.

(of course, I just blew a head gasket on my Audi, so I get to spend some money on that... there goes Camaro Mod money :()

Well, you can forget about ESP. Your car is WAY to far gone for that. SFC's, 3 point STB and 383 are obvious ones.

If you aren't drag racing all the time, the 10-bolts aren't hand grenades. I've never broken one, and it's the same rear the Astro's and S10's use that are rated to tow up to 5k pounds. They don't like shocking loads like big power and slicks amount to, but even then some better parts inside helps a lot .

Also, a 10-bolt has MUCH better differentials available for it, and is a lot cheaper to work on should something happen.

Also 3rd gen rears and 4th gen rears aren't different in anyway but for some gearing and the fact the 4th gen axle is wider. Stay with a 3rd gen rear. It'll make your life a LOT easier with wheel selection since the front won't be completely screwed up vs. the rear.

Shocks are really an inexpensive parts. I'd pass on both or if the shocks are about free, grab them and save for an 89-92 disc axle, or a rear disc conversion kit and put a T2R or something in your 10-bolt with the needed 28 spline axles, which you don't have either.

Yours,

Sam (3rd and 4th gen boy) Strano

Don't even get me started on my collection....

I bought a set of Alcon/Baer front brakes. Decided not to use them. Sold them and decided to use Bob's C5 stuff. I have my C5 brackets and just worked a deal for a set of Wilwoods (in the near future) 6 piston brakes (a custom kit that uses those calipers).

I need one more set of wheels for next years 17" snow tires. I may buy another set of race rims. Or not.

Anyway, I'm hijacking this thread (not unusual for me, I know).

Back to the topic at hand.

Thanks for the welcome :drive:

Out here on the East Coast it's a little different. Not that I think they're worth gold, but definately worth hanging on to. Money'd better wasted on a T5 (likely) or T56 converson (T56s might as well be solid unobtanium out here) that I've been planning. My HD shocks and struts have vary few miles on them.

I've seen a total of three SS camaros out here on the street, and a grand total of one firehawk. It's not a factory musclecar area, more of a buy old shit and make it fast.

Where are you at? I'm from the east coast and get back that way a fair amount. Just wondereing.

You can find a T56 out here for about $700 if you shop carefully. I have done a T5 and a T56 swap in a 3rd gen. It's an easy job. Centerforce makes an "adaptor" flywheel for the old style crankshafts to use the LT1 clutch assembly.

NB, Canada here. I dunno if you make it quite this far east.

I think for my purposes, a T5 should do me just fine.

Sam, NO drag racing here, no interest at all. After doing some more reading, the 10-bolt should probably be fine.

Nope. I'm a good ways south and not that far east.....

Matt86Z - the guy you're talking about, does he live in Mississauga by any chance and drive a black Camaro with a big block in it..lol

I think I would have gone for the struts. I like 9 bolts because the bearings are pressed on the axles so you don't need any c-clips, but outside of that I wouldn't buy another. Ive got 2 extras sitting here if you really want one. They have the crappy cast iron caliper disk brakes. The only reason why I'm not looking for a 10 bolt is because I just found backing plates for the PBR calipers. If I stumble across a 10 bolt with PBR plates then I'll grab it and toss a T2R in it with some gears if needed.

To run those 17" rims you will need a set of adapters anyway, and they get pretty pricey!!

Could be...you never know.

s'up, JoeRotax?

Not much, just waiting for the first track day.

I always thought you were in South West Ontario for some reason.

Nah, out east. :drive:

Got enough hours to get to a track day this year, so I may just spring for the BMW driving school this fall if I get the Z out. There's a few M3's and a dude usually shows up with his modena.