I've tried just about everywhere around town looking for T-bar aluminum to make the front lexan windshield braces. Anybody have any ideas? I hit up Lowes, HD, True-Value, and the large private owned shop that has a warehouse full of materials.

It's 1" x 1/8" x 96".

Where can I find it? Online is cool too.

mcmaster.com

www.onlinemetals.com

I had the same problem. And you know it don't make any sense either. You can find every other type aluminum..but the T stock.

I ordered mine from a metals supplier in town. Took 3 days.

Tony

I'll second www.mcmaster.com. I order from them whenever I can. In fact I ordered 8 feet of t bar for the wife's lexan windshield reinstall about a month ago. Came in a big, sturdy cardboard tube. Not even UPS could mess that thing up.

Jason

I kept meaning to check the McMaster catalog. It's laying around in the basement somewhere. Couldn't find it on onlinemetals.com or anywhere else.

Thanks guys!

http://www.mcmaster.com

Do a search on "alloy 6061 aluminum t-section".

Or just peruse page 3378.

Jason

Since you've done this already, what size did you use? I'm assuming 8' should be enough for two supports on the front windshield? Did you use two only? Also, how thick was your windshield? Mine is 1/8".....I realized afterwards, 3/16" is the minimum if I was to ever compete in SCCA.

I see you addresses Jason hope I'm not steppin in it now. Your car must be gone?

I had 44.5" per brace in front. But I covered the entire span,in hope of extra rigidity. 16 ft. did the front and rear speedglass 2 braces per no problem had little left. don't fudge :)

I think I did a wonderful job with mine I'm very pleased (I took pics of most all details in sig.).If you have some question I can answer for you as you get going don't hesitate. Those little details make it a success. Rush and you may screw up. I used 3/16" though. I cant figure if thin would be easier or harder hmmm. Easier but harder to cut gonna be jittery and maybe fracture if you try to cut to fast. I went and got 2 different blades for the jig saw made for plexiglass. Bosch had a cool one.

Tony

#07 - I was looking over your pictures. Thanks! How come you have the rear brace on the inside? Shouldn't it be on the outside to keep the lexan from blowing outward?

there's research alloys right here in columbus. they're off goodale ave. iirc.....they have a lot of everything and their pricing is really good.....

...don't know about his car, but typically, you would have interior braces much like the front to prevent the big 'ol window from caving in in the sun....and aluminum straps on top of the window in the sam location as the interior Tbar.....

You know I did think that through. I have seen some on the outside,and some like mine. I think it looks better on the inside. My solution if there is an issue with the buldging or flexing out (remember it 3/16") is a) move them outside window b ) simply put 6 more fasteners 3 each brace. Think nice looking fasteners aluminum perhaps and rubber washers to seal and protect the polycarbonate.

Now Randys idea or point you dog is a hellofva great idea. It seems the right way makes sense to me. 1" flat running the entire length on the outside poly sandwiched between it and T-bar. And the flat attached with counter sunk flat head bolts about a 12 ..sweet. Is that right Randy?

Honestly though I think it is a non-issue might wait that one out. But Randys point,Oh boy easy to do no reworking period,would look good ,and funtional :7 month sigh: and 20 more bux.

The front window was easier.I only had to trim one edge, a vertical edge. I went a little loose with drawing the line w/ sharpy say 1/4" from net. Knowing that as it was fastened down was going to grow. My experince with the rear poly taught me that. I also knew off the bat its not just start drilling and screwwing/riveting. I started at one edge Driver pillar put all of the fastenerin on it. Then worked it in the passenger direction top and bottom getting the sheet evenly attached and flattened. You don't really want to jump around and like attach a point 18" from you and then fill in not good warpage can occur. Or drill to many points at a time work slowly.This did not happen to me just know it'll happen. And I have it in there great all edges are right there I'm pretty picky about stuff like that trust me it good. I used flat head coutersunk stainless screws for fasteners. Good stuff not that China crap. But some use rivets ehhh glad I didnt. I already have it back off easy on off. I'm most likely adding aluminum clips near future.

The rear you arent doing so I wont go to far there. But it was trimming sides and entire bottom. And a secondary trim after it was affixed, it grows. But the molding on this Percys Speedglass...well makes it VERY DOABLE!! Luckily I have the stock rear glass here unbroken, can you say template. BTW the way the braces are in the rear REALLY tightened up the hatch. Those hatches sans glass not good.

Tony

We have one bar in front, two in back. The one in front is on the inside, the two in the rear are on the outside. We put some foam in between the metal and the lexan on all three bars. Before you put the lexan in I'd suggest painting around the edges with some lexan paint (available at your local hobby store). This gives it a cleaner look. On the front we are currently painting this so that there is black behind where the American Iron sticker goes. It really makes the American Iron stand out. In the rear it hides the hatch edges that look kinda crappy. Plus if you paint the inside it's a lot less likely to get scratched up.

Jason

Tony, your description is exactly as I was refering to. However, I didn't realize you had screwed down into the "T" from on top on the rear....if the fasteners are done well, I think this would work as well...but for my money at 150 MPH down the straight with both windows wide open, I would rather have the matching straps on top...



How did you attach them to tighten the rear hatch up? That is ANOTHER reason I have moved the rear Lexan lower on the list....but my car NOT loosing much weight with this seasons upgrades has made me think again... How much weight would you say the Lexan saves over the rear stock glass...I have heard the hatch weighs more than the glass In that case I was thinking of a VFN pin on hatch, but that would be a PITA to get on/off....

That is exactly what I've been planning all along. Need to find the R/C paint. It seems all the hobby shops by me closed over the years.

...me too.....hobby shops are HARD to find...I found one, but I have recently heard that Krylon Fusion works well also.....it is everywhere....

Wow. We actually have a couple hobby shops here in SB. I was miffed that they were closed on Sundays, thinking that larger cities would have hobby shops open on both weekend days. I guess I should count my blessings. I think the Internet has spoiled me though. I'm used to ordering stuff ahead of time and getting it right away. This whole go to the store and look for things is a hassle.

Jason

Yeah the paint really adds the final touch. You know if I were you I'd go with the tried and true RC paint like Randy and Jason. I used the Krylon Fusion. It does look good now,went on no fish eye at all. The test piece I did prior passed the thumb nail scratch test. You could scratch it off slow if you work at it (think it bonded good). Did not flake off ,like I actually anticipated would happen as if it were conventional spray paint. But it has not been on long,so as far as it REALLY being good enough has yet to be determined. Might just vibrate off as soon as I get the motor back in who knows,may last 2 months or a lifetime

You know if you did not get a install kit .I have seen the 'Premium auto weather strip' same as in the Percys kit at Ace. Thats what was used in the rear.For the front I got regular type adhesive weatherstriping,only the best closed cell real rubber stuff though. Not the other garbage that last about one summer of sun.

Randy The rear hatch after you take the glass off,it becomes very apparent that the window is 50% of the structural strength. So after the braces were in much improved,would open w/o contorting. Alot more sound it did have alot to do with the way the braces were installed I believe. One they are not just wacked off chunks loose in the window and then fastened down. The length matched slotting depth perfect virtually nill tolerence,tight. Two the top of the braces are bolted down through the brace,hatch,and into a horizontal backing of angle alum. stock and squeezed. Bottom its just tight in there and riveted w/ small backers. After the speedglass (lexan is made by Dupont) is put in it add more rigidity by nature BUT definitely the hatch is, as completed, about 20+% less ridgid than with glass. I think it will last the way it is but only time will tell. The rear stock glass wieghs 37# bathroom scale lexan I didnt wiegh.

Tony

www.towerhobbies.com

I've used them before for RC car lexan paint. I got rid of that money pit (RC car) a while back though.

Me too....I ebay'd them off! I know all about tower hobbies and the mail order guys. Was just hoping for something local, or maybe by work to avoid the hassle of ordering and paying $~8 shipping.

I'm going to start off by using the t-bar in the front (2 of them). In the rear I'm going to use 2 straps on the outside. For fastening, I'm going to use 10-32 nutserts with buttonhead cap screws to keep it smooth (not countersunk). I'm going to use black R/C paint on the inside.

The only thing I haven't figured out yet is how I am going to seal the lexan? I've got a few ideas, but still not sure yet.