Soon I will need to buy a good lawn and garden tractor and I know nothing about them. Our new house is on 1.25 acres and I can't even imagine mowing it with a push mower. I'd also like it to be capable of mounting a plow blade for the drive in the winter.

Does anyone have any recommendations of who makes good ones and maybe some to stay away from? Any other info you may have that would help me select an appropriate tractor would also be appreciated.

Thanks

I am in the same boat as a newb with a country property. Fortunately it came with a '53 Ford tractor for plowing, which needs TLC but there are tons of replacement parts for. It also came with a Craftsman lawn mover which does not seem to have a great front end (steering probs). John Deere is still the gold standard, otherwise your Sears guy can fix you up.

John Deere does have a budget brand (Sabre, I think) that might be worth looking into. Cub Cadet is good, though I'm not sure it's really Cub Cadet anymore. I just have a regular but sturdy Cub Cadet riding mower. A real Cub Cadet was built more like a miniature tractor.

Sears tends to use the largest motor and mowing deck that the frame can possibly handle. In other words, a lot of power on a flimsy frame.

Most manufacturers have several basic frame designs (in other words, grades) that they will build a variety of models on. I would look for the smallest model built on the intermediate frame. It's easy to spot once you know to look for it.

Also, twin blade decks are more reliable than 3 blade decks. The belts are simpler and the grass exits better (if not mulching). Typically, a 42" deck is about the biggest you'll find in a twin blade.

I'd also look for a cast front axle instead of stamped.

The hydraulic drive on mine is GREAT. It allows you to actually vary your speed with a pedal while keeping the blade speed more-or-less contant instead of having to constantly stop and change gears or manipulate the hand throttle. That may not be an issue in a big open area, but if you have much stuff (trees, etc) to mow around it helps a lot.

The zero-turn models are nice, but pricey.

BTW, we have eleven acres. We mow several acres of it with the rider, most of the open area with a 6' bush hog and 38 hp tractor (JD), and there's an acre or so of woods spread out along the stream and fences.

The cheap/flimsy bottom end models are OK on smooth, manicured lawn, but on slightly rougher ground (just open field, not wild or rocky areas) they just don't hold up. We went through two quick before I bought a sturdier model.

I have a Sabre and it works really well. I have over 1 acre of lawn on a nice hilly area. I have only used it for 100 hours though. From the John Deere website it looks like they do not sell the Sabres anymore.

I totally agree on the other points.

Thanks for the replies. Looking at the JD web site, I like the looks of the L120. It does have the 3 blade system with the 48" deck, so maybe I should take a closer look at the 42" version. They say retail is $2300, maybe I can find a local dealer that can do a bit better than that.

Looking again, they have the L111 with the 42" deck and only 2 hp less for $1800. That looks alot better.

I am personally a Kubota fan. I purchased a ZD-28P diesel w/ a 60" deck almost a year ago. No regrets, but it would probably overkill on an acre +. I've been considering a Kubota GR-21 diesel for some different areas that I mow. I have used several John Deere mowers and many others and feel the JD's have one of/if not the best cut quality on the market. Just my .02

BTW, I'm not an expert on old Fords, but some or a lot of the older models geared the PTO to the tranny instead of having a separate drivetrain for it. Depressing the clutch pedal disconnects the wheels and PTO from the engine but not from each other. The result is effectively a large flywheel attached to the drivewheels, which can be a problem if you need to stop quick.

It's common and highly recommended (for safety) to retrofit an "overrun clutch" (or words to that effect) on the PTO (looks like a short extension on the PTO) which is basically a ratchet drive like on a socket wrench. This lets the tranny drive the PTO but doesn't let the PTO drive the tranny.

Note that this is not the same thing as the slip clutch that's often used at the implement. It's purpose is the same as a shear pin: to protect the implement and tractor (and operator) if a large rock or stump goes where a rock or stump shouldn't go and causes a jam.