Im here to learn a thing or two from you road race X-crossers. I have 2 Camaros a 01 SS SLP 1LE car (w/ me) and a 2002 Z that I set up for the 1320(in storage). Currently I am assigned on Crete a island in the Medditeranian Sea (I'm Air Force). The roads here are not that great and are very bumpy, slick, and uneven. My SS has adjustable Koni's and I turned them up a little which has helped with the car bouncing out in turns. So if you guys can shoot me some good info on how to make my car handle don't be afraid to add anything. I don't drive like a idiot like most of the locals do but a little better performance out of this car on the tight turns and crappy conditions would help.
My car is basically stock minor mods LT's, Lid, BMR LCA's, bolt on SLP SFC's and whatever SLP threw into the 1LE package. Oh it has a brandnew set of BFG KD's too. I have been wondering if a strut tower brace would do anygood but I heard it affects handling in good and bad ways. What kind of springs would be a good upgrade? I like the low look but the roads here will tear the underside up. Thanks --Ryan
Full Version: Hello i'm new here
Welcome Ryan 
Wait for the "vets" to jump in here for help on the shock settings.
Allignment was the best thing i did to my 95, the stock settings just suck! You can do a Ground Control adjustable coilover setup, and you can upgrade the spring rate from your 360lb to want most run with the DA Koni's 500 to 600lbs. The STB doesn't do anything on are cars, but the SFC do alot!
Look around here, there is so much great info!
Wait for the "vets" to jump in here for help on the shock settings.
Allignment was the best thing i did to my 95, the stock settings just suck! You can do a Ground Control adjustable coilover setup, and you can upgrade the spring rate from your 360lb to want most run with the DA Koni's 500 to 600lbs. The STB doesn't do anything on are cars, but the SFC do alot!
Look around here, there is so much great info!
I've been to Crete and have driven the roads. I can't imagine my setup in those conditions.
I would go for a compliant setup - stock springs, big bars (35 front, 21 rear) and shocks set on the soft side in addition to what you already have. A STB couldn't hurt but I am not convinced that they are all that helpful (even though I run one on my road race car). If you are saying that the car is weak on corner exit, then I agree with firehawkclone that an alignment could help. Betters tires can also do wonders.
The reason for the above advice is that I think that going up in spring rate would be a jarring experience and not all that fun to drive.
Other opinions, guys?
I would go for a compliant setup - stock springs, big bars (35 front, 21 rear) and shocks set on the soft side in addition to what you already have. A STB couldn't hurt but I am not convinced that they are all that helpful (even though I run one on my road race car). If you are saying that the car is weak on corner exit, then I agree with firehawkclone that an alignment could help. Betters tires can also do wonders.
The reason for the above advice is that I think that going up in spring rate would be a jarring experience and not all that fun to drive.
Other opinions, guys?
You probably want the compression (lower setting) on all four shocks set to full soft. You will probably want the rebound (upper setting) stiffer at the front than in the rear.
I'd stay with the 1LE front springs, and maybe even swap in a pair of standard Z28 rear springs.
I wouldn't lower the car until you get home. It puts you closer to the bump stops, and you'll need stiffer springs.
I'd go with the Strano hollow front and rear bars unless you already have the SLP 35~36mm front bar and/or the 1LE rear. You probably only have a 32mm 1LE front bar at most. The Strano bars are lighter and/or a bit softer than some of the other good choices out there, but still an improvement over the 1LE front bar. If you already have a 21mm 1LE rear bar, just upgrade the front.
Go for all the negative camber you can get (probably around -0.5), around 4.5 caster, and zero toe.
Just getting the shocks and bars right will make a big difference. I wouldn't try to get it really tuned to the hilt until you get home (or until you can swing a transfer to Germany:)).
I'd stay with the 1LE front springs, and maybe even swap in a pair of standard Z28 rear springs.
I wouldn't lower the car until you get home. It puts you closer to the bump stops, and you'll need stiffer springs.
I'd go with the Strano hollow front and rear bars unless you already have the SLP 35~36mm front bar and/or the 1LE rear. You probably only have a 32mm 1LE front bar at most. The Strano bars are lighter and/or a bit softer than some of the other good choices out there, but still an improvement over the 1LE front bar. If you already have a 21mm 1LE rear bar, just upgrade the front.
Go for all the negative camber you can get (probably around -0.5), around 4.5 caster, and zero toe.
Just getting the shocks and bars right will make a big difference. I wouldn't try to get it really tuned to the hilt until you get home (or until you can swing a transfer to Germany:)).
Welcome aboard! We're always happy to have new members here and I hope you find the tech info useful. We've got a lot of very bright minds here and I won't even pretend to be one of them. Just soak up the knowledge and enjoy!
Howdy from Nepal,
If your BMR arms use poly bushings, I would re-install your original 1LE rear LCA’s. This will give you a slightly smoother (and quieter) ride, and will hook up better accelerating out of turns. The tube arm’s resistance to twist, which is necessary without heim type joints, combined with poly bushings propensity to bind, gives you a non-linear and unpredictable increase in spring rate, roll rate, and reaction time. The rates will change as the lube is progressively squeezed out or is contaminated with dirt. I had the Hotchkiss LCA’s for a short time before buying some 1LE’s. If I re-lubed the poly bushings every month, the arms weren’t that bad, but that got old fast.
If your BMR arms use poly bushings, I would re-install your original 1LE rear LCA’s. This will give you a slightly smoother (and quieter) ride, and will hook up better accelerating out of turns. The tube arm’s resistance to twist, which is necessary without heim type joints, combined with poly bushings propensity to bind, gives you a non-linear and unpredictable increase in spring rate, roll rate, and reaction time. The rates will change as the lube is progressively squeezed out or is contaminated with dirt. I had the Hotchkiss LCA’s for a short time before buying some 1LE’s. If I re-lubed the poly bushings every month, the arms weren’t that bad, but that got old fast.
I'll add a few things: Make sure the suspension fasteners are tight, especially the rear shocks. Most of the perception of ride quality is from the rear. If anything is clunking or rattling, fix it and it will seem to smooth the ride. Heater hose on the bottom spring coil, zip tie the Pbrake cables to the axle brackets. Get the SFC's welded in. Remove the SLP spacers from the rear bump stops. Make sure you have the rubber donut upper spring perch on the rear springs.
Nice! Keep um coming! Alot of stuff I have never thought of. Ground control is that pretty good springs? I like the adjustability of thoses. how about QA1 is that only for drag racing? Maybe you guys can throw in more tricks of the trade. Thanks --Ryan
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