$175 a set.

What do you get? 4 delrin offset bushings, steel sleeves, machine screws, instructions, and about .5 more camber than you have right now. And all ESP legal if you happen to care about rules.

Not cheap, because they weren't easy to get made and that costs money (especially in limited quantities).

I've got 16 sets total. Some are already sold or "reserved" by customers I know will be buying them. I figure I have 10 sets up for grabs right now, and if there is a need, I'll make more.

Pick up the phone. I'm calling right now.

merged 3 threads, but all pointing here.
the merge cause 3 entries identical... left the 1st one.
other 2 were cut and pastes.

edit: looks like i was owned by the move + merge = broken links... oh well !

That's a lot more camber gain than you've claimed or admitted in the past

What's involved in the installation - just pressing the old bushings out and drilling a few screw holes?

I would like a set. Are they "orderable" from your website or should I call?

Huh? Oh, nevermind, not worth the discussion....

you have to re-use the old shells, so the rubber has to burned or cut out, and the new ones just press in. That can be done with a vice and not a shop press.



Call me, not on the site.

I knew that Sam was at -1.7 camber, that was about .5 more than I could get from my car (and the tolerance lottery) at a similar ride height. It seems to be inline with what I had for expectations. If I didn't already have global west arms, I'd order a set to "have". Just in case.

I think Rob was only able to get about -1.3 at a similair height.

Since I never installed my GW arms, I may order a set of bushings too

I could only get -1.3 at the same height. That was my point, he was at -1.7, so it seemed about right to me.

Ain't tryin' to say otherwise. 0.5 is a significant improvement.

Agreed.

Got mine today....

Damn shipping time to middle of nowhere AR......

I'll be ordering in a few weeks. To much repair work last weekend. If you sell out, I'll wait for the next run since they won't be going in until winter anyway.

-Jon

Jon,

You just confirm you are getting them pretty soon, I'll hold a set for you. I like the fact there are folks I can trust and I'd be happy to do that since we've done similar things before, and the fact you've left a favorable impression on me when we met (and when we've spoken).

Korry,

Yours are scheduled for delivery tomorrow (fedex track is 086562810018328).


Sam

Thanks.

Remember that thing I said about probably not installing 'em for a while? Yeah... forget that.

That's kind of what I thought would happen.

I actually committed to buying a set from a production run on 9/28/2005, though I first tried to buy a set long before that

Sam, if you are so inclined, please charge a set to the credit card you have on file for me. I'm in a class all week, so otherwise I'll just call next week.

Thanks,
Sean

If you'd like me to sent a set, I'll be happy to. I don't have a credit card number on file right now (got deleted or was expired probably).

Just as well, I'd rather use a different card anyway. Yes, please save me a set.

Bushings are installed.

I'll reset the toe and get it on the road later this week.

Rich Johnston, John Spooner, Sean Garnett..... bushings are packed and on the way. Thanks!

Thanks Sam,

RacerX,

Got any install pointers for the rest of the crowd?

Thanks,

-John

Not really, they went together pretty easily. Just drill your set screw holes straighter than I did so nobody will accuse you of being A ) cross-eyed or B ) drunk.

Per side it was something like....

15 minutes to get the arm out
What felt like 2 flippin hours to burn out the old bushings and clean up the shells.
10 minutes to press in the bushings
10 minutes to install the set screws (need a 10-32 tap but screws are included)
15 minutes to button everything back up

There are some pretty good directions included if you've never tackled anything like this before.

I installed mine with a loaner ball joint tool from O'Reilly. A bench vise would probably work but I have no bench and no vise.

Thanks for the pointers. What kind of torch did you use? I have a basic one. I don't know what kind of gas it uses. Then again, I don't know if that really matters?

-John

Just your basic Home Depot propane plumbers torch.

Use Mapp gas and a screw driver and it won't take but a few minutes to get it clean. How much camber did you gain?

Yeah well, cheap and slow can also describe the car so it was the only logical path for me.

Camber... hard to say, I don't have a way to check camber / caster here at home yet. However, the increase is readily apparent to even the untrained eye (read - my wife). I'd have to say it's at least equal to the advertised 0.5°

Thanks for the pointers. Just one more question... I'm a little confused on where to drill and tap the hole. The written part of the directions say, to me anyway, to do it through the side of the bushing. But the figure seems to suggest doing it through the face of the bushing as it's flange is facing you...

The instruction say "drill and tap a 10-32 hole through the outer metal casing into the bushing...". The screw is to keep the bushing from turning relative to the metal sleeve. Not to mention that a screw sticking out of an end wouldn't let you put the a-arm back together.

5 sets left........

I was able to beat the old bushings out with a socket and hammer instead of burning it. Then again, they were poly bushings that were installed less than 2 years ago...

I've got 4 sets left...... Things have slowed down considerably (and I knew they would) being these are first and foremost build to satisfy rules.

However, I know there are a few of you out there yet who could use them (and at least one or two I actually had in mind when I decided to build these) who didn't get any yet. Here's why I metion that. I most likely will *not* do another run of these. The market is pretty small and going to be pretty much saturated.

If you want some it's time.

Burning the bushing out: Do you want to burn it right down to bare metal? Or can there be a little bit of leftover residue? I suppose the answer is yes, bare metal.

You need to get all the rubber out. You can burn all of it out or burn most of it and knock off the last little bit with a wire brush.

Thanks Phil...

-John

I have not installed my UCA bushings yet, but for removing the LCA bushing rubber I found it worked better to heat the outside of the bushing shell until smoke started squirting out at the edge of the rubber (more than just a lazy wisp) and then the rubber would just slide out.

I finally got to run my first event since these were installed.

It's amazing what 0.5° of camber can do for a car......

I'd like to move the remaining sets. They are overhead, and while I know they will sell to someone eventually, I'd really like them to go to the intended folks.

Sam, i've been mulling this over and i think i would like a set for the CMC car.

Last set sold I hope.....

Wheeler got the last set......

From here I need to get confirmed orders to make another run as I know the market is getting saturated and don't want to end up sitting on a bunch of them.

Thank you Sam!

Once again you came through!

Just an fyi

With a slotted k-member and these upper bushing, I can get almost 3 on camber and 4.5 on caster! maxed!

Mine is set at 1.8 and 6.2 with a ride height F 6" R 6 3/16"

I'm sure Sam will make another batch if need be

And I'd be happy to have more made for you guys. But wishing upon a star isn't going to cut it. I need confirmed orders this time!

Bringing this back to the top because I have two confirmed orders for more. I'm not making more until I have 10 solid orders. So we need 8 more to get something rolling on another batch.

***SOLD*** , thanks. Disregard below.

I have a brand new set of these for sale. I bought the set from Sam about 2 months ago, but when I took my upper control arms off I discovered that the car already had a set of offset bushings installed, (probably from Global West).

First $175 takes them. No need to wait for the next batch to be made, mine are available now.
Buyer pays UPS ground shipping.

send email to briandoll at comcast dot net

Brian Doll

Are you sure the bushings you have are legal? There was some talk about some prior offset bushings having too much metal content vs. OE. I don't know if it's true, but some folks have been caught cheating before. I'd hate to see you get screwed if that was the case. And no, pleading ignorance is not a defense or we might well have had a different winner in STS @ Nationals. There were things on his car he didn't know were wrong, and got tossed for them.

I sold them already, no skin off my nose if you want to sell them. You just might want to hang on to them until you know you have something legal for sure. Just a thought

Hi Sam,

My car is an American Sedan, pertinent rules are in GCR 17.1.7.D.4.d
The global west bushings are legal per this ruleset (the way I interpret them...)
How are the autocross rules worded?

The bushings you make are nice. I just made a mistake and didn't realize the car I bought already had offset bushings installed.

Excerpts from the gcr:

The gcr is at http://www.scca.org/_FileLibrary/File/GCR2006.pdf

17.1.7.D.4.d.2. On other forms of suspension, camber adjustments
may be achieved by the use of shims and/or eccentric
bushings. Rear camber shall be no more than 1/2 degree
negative per side.

17.1.7.D.4.d.5. Bushing material is unrestricted except that control
arm to spindle ball joints must be stock or equivalent
replacement. Original unmodified control arms must be
retained.

In ESP, they can have no more metallic content that the stock bushings they replace, they may be pinned (to prevent rotation of the offset) but the pin may serve no other purpose, and if the stock bushing uses compliance to allow movement (as both of the lower control arm bushings on a 4th gen do, but especially the caster bushing) then the replacement must also (so a spherical delrin caster bushing is illegal, even if it doesn't shatter).