I have a line on a 97 Z28 six speed with a hurt engine, car is all stock....for a good price.

What do I need at a minimum to track day it, a dedicated trackday car. Can I put vette brakes on the front and LS1 brakes on the rear? I am gonna gut the car, totally gut it. Try to get it to 3000 lbs. What suspension do I NEED on this car? I am a novice..where do I need to start? As far as tires, brakes, suspension....I know I need a bar, belts and seats.


David

I have the magic link that will answer all your questions.

http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?act=Search&f=1



Jason

Think long term ... some day you might want to go to CMC or AI. Don't get too mod crazy.

I agree with Mitch and Jason. Decide what your plans are. Read through the posts here.

I'd take the car to a few driver schools and learn to drive before you mod the car. It is easy to mod the car only to find later you should have done it differently.

The cheapest route may be to buy a used CMC or AI car rather than invest in this other car that needs a new motor.

Good luck,
Tony

What they said, especially about buying a used CMC/AI car. $8-$10K will buy a nice CMC car.

David,

We never seem to give the expected advice around here, but we're not like other boards (who love to throw parts at stuff). Fix the car, get it safe and reliable. Fresh belts, fluids, etc. Toss a set of better brake pads on it (or do the LS1 swap, you can always sell the parts later) and go do some driving schools. You'll have far more car under you than most give it credit for. Yea, the stock shocks suck, but they won't be what's holding you back at first. Sure, we can make the car better up front, but as we increase the ultimate grip and response of the vehicle, we thin down the line between stuck and unstuck. You'll get better feedback by driving the car on track in a somewhat stock form. As you then make changes, you can decide if you like them and what exactly they did to the car. Be safe and listen to your instructors and you'll work through the learning curve the right way.

You can do pretty much all of the things you mentioned. I just wouldn't do them yet.

There is a GP for the trackbrackets C5 conversion brackets in the Sponsors section right now. Just as an FYI in case you want to get a set to hang onto, or you could install them, but if you go CMC, you'll need to swap back to LS1 brakes (though you can sell that kit complete to someone). Hence the mention that I'd not be in a huge hurry to do the C5 stuff until you get a feel for your goals (which will likely change).

I can get the car for $2000. I have friends that are instructors..I will get my schooling that way..they go to a good amount of trackdays..I have been alot and ridden with them..rented a car and did it once. I think I should at least lower the car, put on some vented rotors and shed some weight..that's just me thinking out loud. I have no plans of doing cmc or ai...we are getting a road course here in Lower Alabama in the next 3 years....the guys I know go to No Problem, Barber and Road Atlanta. Is the F body or Fox Mustang a better platform?


Thanks again

David

FRRAX = F-Body Road Race and Autocross ... guess what your answer will be ...

not having plans to wheel to wheel race is no reason to not keep those options open. i had no plans to do it years ago either. in fact, i was plenty happy w/ HPDE stuff for about 5 years. then i dicided i needed more. got $10K in the fastest CMC car @ Nationals (got beat by a local to Mid Ohio). you could easily be CMC legal for a total of $5K (car and all).
point is lots of folks have been down the road your about to travel. and have learned the hard way.

Stick with a stockish car on street tires when you start out. Traveling, entry fees, fuel, and consumables cost enough that you'll likely be wondering where the money went anyway.

After doing it the opposite way, I'd say safety first. I was going awful fast last year for no safety and it's a wakeup when you realize you're doing about 120 into a corner with fading brakes and a stock seat belt.

Beware the red mist...

If you just have to do something, get in on the carbon driveshaft GP that the other members are trying to get going. Youll gain a little performance, comfort, and saftey. From there you should still flush all the fluids, and you still have a motor to put in the car. The more aftermarket parts you throw at it, thats the more money thats not spent on track days. Even tho you don't have plans to race in a class, its best to leave you options open. I speak from experience, if I wanted to race in a class right now, im locked into AIX. I thought about time trials, but got frustraded while adding points to see where I stood, so just threw that idea out the window. Now Im throwing a nice healthy motor in my car and then chances are getting some junk together for CMC-2.

As someone who just did HPDE type stuff for a while someone presented an idea to me: how much does it cost to prep your street car to come out here vs. a race car. We worked the #s, and there wasn't that much difference! Most folks think racing is cost prohibitive vs. open track; it depends on the series you choose to race in with CMC being an economical and popular choice.

Yup, what Julie said, although CMC is not here in AZ (yet), so I'm concentrating on HPDE for now. (I suppose I could go with a spec E30 or 944)

Well I can only afford to make maybe 3 track days a year right now, but during that time a road course is being built in my back yard. Will be done in 2010.....We might have some sort of series here I have no idea..but for now track days are fun as hell..BTW what does HPDE mean? I have to tow to Texas to get the car and it will have to sit for awhile until I finish my street/strip project. I figure I can strip the car and use the money towards building the engine.


Thanks everyone

David

HPDE - High Performance Driving Event, sponsored by NASA.

http://www.nasaproracing.com/