Just as a datapoint, when we ran ASedan and got to over 1000in/lb (and beyond) springs the camber the tires wanted (gs-cs') ended up being less than -2.0 and we ran soft-side out. Stiff side out wanted even less.

Just fyi.


Costas
cars and such...

Thanks Costas! I appreciate the info. Since I had no idea where it would wind up, I didn't slot anything. Now that I know, I'll try it and see what I find out. If I like it, it stays, if not, I guess I'll have to change it. I guess that's why we call it testing. Since this thing is all new to me, I had to start somewhere (right or wrong).

The radiator is here, pics to come..... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif)

You forgot to mention that foreign guy in the slow diesel that beat you! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/nutkick.gif)

Good to see you running again and I hope you get all the issues sorted out before the weekend!

Foreign guy.... He seems normal enough, but he has a funny accent and drives a VW TDI Golf. I think he was faster when he was piloting a Camaro..... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/nutkick.gif)

I replaced the axle seals tonight with the help of Axoid (Thanks Bill!!!), we'll see if it's still leaking. Other than that, not much was done, but I got a delivery of fresh parts today....


On to the good stuff. UPS brought me more toys today.

Prototype valve covers from Canton

Canton power steering fittings

Canton remote accusump valve kit

A custom Afco radiator

An Afco radiator pressure warning system (if it loses pressure, it turns on a light)

Some Afco radiator caps (16 and 22 lb)

Here are photos from the autocross debut.

This is where I ran out of talent..... (being on 380 treadwear street tires didn't help, but I screwed up bad)

There are other photos, but Bill (Axoid here) did such a nice job catching my little mistake, I figured I'd share his work.

We accomplished what we set out to do, we shook down the car and found some issues. That was the main goal for the day. We even had a bunch of fun in the process. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

And I know that some of you will be really surprised to see me going backwards at an autocross event.... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif)

Is that using the Coleman swaged steel tube?
"Lightweight 1" O.D. steel tube
3/4" right and left hand thread
Gold irridite finish
Custom lengths available
.072 wall thickness"

I've got a global west PHB and LCA's with poly ends that I've been meaning to upgrade to rod ends (I'll probably go with QA1 XMR rod ends, but they aren't cheap).

Those look like the same cast alum centerbolt valve covers that Mark Frouhar (from NFME) had on his '85 TransAm.

It looked similar to http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku, but I'm not positive.

He had to majorly clearance the inside bosses to clear the rocker arms, and they all ended up cracking at the corner of the clearance notches against the centerbolt tube. If you've got the short-rail AFR heads, you'll have lots of oil going out the left side breather clockwise tracks. We TIG'd a 3" riser to the top of the valve cover at the front, to get some clean oil-free air for the AMW air:oil separator catch can breather setup.

Are the canton's stock height, or taller?

No, Hotpart is a full machine/fabrication shop. I originally thought they were reselling Coleman stuff, but after working with Brian out there and through our discussions, I've learned that they manufacture all of their stuff in house (except rod ends and such). This is a chromoly bar and by swaging it, you don't have to weld on it. That elminates all of the worry about normalizing, etc. And, I can pretty much do pull ups on this bar, it's that rigid. I ran aluminum for a long time and I agree that it seems to work just fine, but this isn't much heavier and it sure seems stout. Anyway, my information is that it is not the Coleman bar, but they could be similar.

I've got Moroso centerbolt covers on the car now and they clear the Comp Cams Pro Magnum roller rockers. I found a deal on these and was thinking of having AN fittings welded on to them for breather tanks, etc (assuming that they fit). Canton listed them as "medium" height (as I remember). I bought them as an experiment. I have to track down hardware first, then we'll go from there. Or, I sell them on TGO and likely get my money back.

I currently have no clue if they'll fit or not. If they do, I'll sell the Moroso's and make a few bucks on the deal (or I'll try).

Cool, you got the finish lights. That'll show 'em! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) If you're going to screw up, do it in a spectacular way.

So other than the special fittings, what is special about the radiator? Just curious.

Ours are not the Coleman piece and I would not recommend using the Coleman piece. Because of the long length we decide to make our panhard rod from 1.25" x .095" chrome-moly to avoid any deflection. The Coleman piece is using a small 1" OD, very thin wall tubing, and is made from mild steel.

Everyone should look at Hotpart. You guys do things right! Kudos to you guys Brian!

Kevin, the timing light killer (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/bigun2.gif) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

The large fittings are for an oil cooler. It has a built in oil to water cooler for the engine oil. I added a fitting for a water pressure switch. If a radiator hose blows off, the light comes on. We've lost two motors in the AV8SS car due to such issues. We had a freeze plug pop out of a head and didn't get black flagged for 2 laps (that engine pretty much melted). We also had a water neck crack and the "bump" that retains the top radiator hose and the bump was missing, and so was that end of the hose. The temp gauge was in an air pocket and still had a reasonable reading. We ran 3 laps at Beaver Run without water that time and damaged a bunch of expensive stuff. I then decided a pressure switch was a good idea for my own car.

So, it's basically a 650 hp rated radiator with a built in oil cooler. It just saves me an oil cooler thermostat and finding a place for the oil cooler that doesn't block airflow. Besides, those guys build nice stuff.(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) And, they built it to my measurements to fit my car (boy I hope I can use a tape measure....guess I'll know real soon (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif) ).



I'm glad you dropped in Brian. I was going to mention that I thought that was larger than 1" diameter, but since I didn't mic it and I wasn't near the car, I wasn't 100% sure.

Hotpart's prices are very reasonable for the quality of parts they build (Heck, their prices are reasonable for parts that aren't as nice as these are, getting stuff that's this well built is a bonus). I know Julie has worked with them on her cars as well and had a great experience. Their stuff has been truly top shelf. Talking to Brian will let you know how much he truly cares about these designs (and we've been on the phone many times so far). The tolerances they use on thier taps, the fit and finsh and such are truly first rate.

There are lots of places to buy good quality parts, some are more well know than others, but add Hotpart to the list of stuff that's very worthy of your consideration. This is just based on my experience with their stuff (which I'm doing my best to document here with everything else).

I was just glad I didn't manage to kill the timers. I've seen more than a few of those get broken after being punted. I thought I got it with the tail, but I just bumped it (hard) with the nose.

1992 Z28: Kills timing lights.....DEAD. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/twak.gif)

I also spent about 1.5 - 2 hours on the phone with Afco working out the radiator details. Rodney Bremmer was who I worked with out there and he was truly a professional (and quite patient).


Tonight.... It's the radiator, accusump and oil system show. Tune in for the next installment, coming soon to a thread near you!!!! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

Well, it's not looking good. We fought with the radiator for quite a while to get it to fit (using a few large hammers). Once we made room, the oil cooler fitting is a very tight fit with the power steering. So, we now need to hammer the floor a bit flatter so the radiator can lean back. It was getting too late to hammer on it tonight, so we have to do that tomorrow. Then we have to make all of the lines for the oil cooler, remote filter and accusump. We then worked out where to mount the accusump. There's a chance we could get it all back together tomorrow, but it's going to be real close.

We did a fair amount of hammering to get the radiator to fit but the oil cooler fitting is just where we don't want it to be (they built it to my specs, so there's nobody to blame but me and I'll get it in there).

A little hammering here, a bit of cutting there and "poof", we almost have a radiator.....

Kevin,

I wish I had your energy. What is it? From zero to race car in 3 weeks???? You are gonna be toast by Friday.


I am IN Tennessee BTW. Northwest corner visiting my 94 year old Grandmother. Gonna fill up on that good West TN bar b que and cold beers for the 4th and worry about all those kids over in the Desert that are going to miss out on this Holiday.

I wish I had my energy (I'm already toast (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) ). I've been in the garage every night for a couple weeks now. I've accomplished a bunch, but there's a lot of work to do tomorrow and I'm not convinced that we can get it done. On top of that, we have a tuning/computer issue that showed up after Sunday's autocross. We can't fix it until we get a radiator in the car and I'm running out of time. So, unless a miracle happens tomorrow (which is always possible), I'm guessing that I'm coming down to Nashville without a car. That still could change if tomorrow goes well.

I need to:

Mount the radiator (I really need some metal and a brake to bend up a bracket, but I'll mod the stock one for now)
Buy an electric cooling fan (I don't think the stock ones are going to fit)
Install the oil filter "plate" (so I can hook AN lines to the block)
Install (bolt down) the accusump
Run the remote accusump valve cable
Make up all of the AN lines
Hook up the electric oil temp sender
Hook up the mechanical oil pressure gauge
Install a mechanical water temp gauge
Mount the power steering cooler and hook up the lines (the lines are installed, I just need to cut them off at the cooler and hook them up)
Retune/trouble shoot the car

Based on that list, I'm going to guess that you'll see me without my car for this event. But anything can happen around here.
Make all of the -10 AN lines to connect all of it

Come on down regardless Kevin.

You know we are going to have a blast!

You guys have fun.

Have a beer for me, OK?

Just one? This project is starting to call for "many". (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/drink.gif)

That lower oil cooling line connection is going to be 'interesting'. ;-)

I was interested in the radiator as the new unit in our 92 B4c does okay, until you turn the a/c on and sit in traffic. Even with both fans hot-wired to run continuously, the car still goes north of 220 in traffic. Because of that, I usually don't use the a/c much. Makes for uncomfortable commutes home in the afternoon, especially if it rains.

And, I'm probably going to need a dual-pass radiator for the Firebird when the new engine goes in.

Your project looks like fun. Too bad you don't have the additional time to clean things and make them all look pretty. Still, considering the time you don't have the project is looking good.