I found this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/98-02-LS1-C...bd#ht_993wt_722 this is from a well known parts house in FL. Your still looking at $500 when everything is said and done. Brakes, shipping, rebuild, pads,SS lines( non coated), fluid, and alignment which you have to do anyway.

Another tempting option...You guys will have me sleeping on the couch in no time...

And why should you be "special"?

(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif)

I know you are gathering info so I should throw this in just so we have mentioned it. The LS1/junkyard retro requires some caution to make sure the donor was not hit in the front. This seems like a no brainer, but the new spindles can be bent, even slightly, which will make it impossible to align. It is virtually impossible to tell by just looking at them.

Just a caution. When I did this years ago, I didn't check...but I got lucky.

bock

Kevin, I don't disagree that the C5 calipers put onto a LS1 car with the stock 12" rotors would put more bias to the rear.

But since he's (LT1) going from the 11" rotor to a 12" rotor, wouldn't using the C5 calipers on that keep the brake bias the same as OEM?

I know it's a small detail, but...

So basically if some money should fall into my lap, swapping out the front brakes (to LS1 at the very least) should be top on my list of mods before the track outing? And LS1 brakes will definitely fit under stock '93 16" wheels?

Just a FYI............The local BMW Club ( Genesee Valley Chapter BMW CCA) offers a $100.00 discount to your FIRST track event with us. Watkins Glen International is a top rate track, guarnteed to to lead to the pipe (LOL). We offer top rate instructors, (most have been thru our Instructor Traning Seminar).

If you have a interest send me a email and I can get you in touch with the website and events that we have left this year.

Welcome to both the site and the Addiction!!!!!!!!!!!


Gary

I would agree with this statement. The mod will benefit you both street and track. It is relatively cheap and durable. It is reverseable, not that you would want to reverse it.

It may not be sexy, but it is functional and highly recommended for tracking.

You may want to track the car with the LT1 brakes first just so you can see and feel the major difference when you do upgrade. But I feel assured that you will notice it immediately even on the street.

By the way, you mentioned a wife related to the dollar investment for this. Wives tend to like items on cars that slow them down, or add to the safety factor...this does both! She will also like the seat, roll cage, and harnesses you put in later after you get addicted to this... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

bock

Thanks again for all the responses. I may have freed up some cash and I'm trying to decide what I'm going to do in the next month before the track outing. I need to go through the brakes anyway and it sounds like that is the weakest link. So now would be a good time to upgrade the calipers but I don't think I'll be able to swing new rims and tires, so I'm thinking the LS1 option.



I noticed the hubs are missing, are they a direct swap from my LT1 spindles?

I don't think it matters if it's an LS1 or an LT1 car that we start with. GM has typically used very similar brake bias calculations for most of their cars. This is why we can swap parts from one to the other, etc and it still works out ok. The LT1 has a single piston caliper with a large amount of piston area. That extra clamping load that's provided by the larger piston area is likely balanced out by the smaller rotor. I haven't seen the numbers worked for the LT1 cars, but I'd be surprised if the piston area/rotor diameter didn't work out to the same bias setting as the LS1 cars and the C5/C6 Corvette. It's more of a hunch than anything, but I suspect that's exactly what we'd find if we went looking.

The hubs are a direct swap. In fact if the system you end up buying has hubs included, check them for run out before using them. They wear our quickly when used for racing.


bock

Thanks bock, my hubs only have 40K and have basically been babied, so I'll probably just bolt them on.

Okay you guys have me sold, the LS1 spindles and calipers are on the way. Am I correct in my understanding that the rear brakes can basically be left stock, pads and all? Or since I have to order rotors and pads for the front (DTC-30?), should I get something comparable for the rear?

Again, thanks for all the help

Dan

Front and rear pad choices opens a whole new can-o-worms Dan. IMHO, For now, keep the stock pads in the rear until you get some experience on how your car is gonna handle.

If you get sucked into this like a lot of us, you may be buying wheels and tires before very long, and then you'll probably want to change pads again.

There are numerous threads on here about pads and bias front to rear. Also rear end "hop" if you get too much rear brake. Different fixes for different problems. Read up.

My opinion, do the fronts and play with that for a little while before moving to the rears.

bock