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#1
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
Wheel spacers for F/Y bod, used but excellent condition:
1pair 3/8" thick center hose sized for LT1 rear $40 SOLD 1pair 1/2" thick sized for LS1 rear, any front $50 SOLD 1pair 3/4" thick sized for LS1 rear, any front $75 SOLD Lugnuts still available, scroll down for pic Blainefab can add lightening holes and/or open up center hole for LT1 rear - inquire for pricing Must not be used with OEM wheel studs - a stud upgrade is required to use the spacers. I also have stock of ARP wheel studs and Gorilla short bulge lugnuts. http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=10330 (IMG:http://www.blainefabrication.com/projects/2011_10_08/IMG_4583.JPG) This post has been edited by Blainefab: Oct 21 2011, 07:01 AM |
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#2
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Mullet club chairman ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 786 Joined: 25-March 06 From: South Bend IN Member No.: 1,135 ![]() |
Think the 3/8 ones will fit over a C4 rear knuckle? I'd like to space the C5 Z06(with hoosier race rubber) rears out just a tad, these would do just the trick. I'm assuming you've used these with no issues in competition, so they should be fine for my track days and time trials.
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#3
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
Think the 3/8 ones will fit over a C4 rear knuckle? I'd like to space the C5 Z06(with hoosier race rubber) rears out just a tad, these would do just the trick. I'm assuming you've used these with no issues in competition, so they should be fine for my track days and time trials. I'll have to check tomorrow, I have a C4 rear hub at the shop. I'm pretty sure it will be the same as the C5 and the LS1 4th gens, tho. If so, the 3/8 would be too large and the 1/2 and 3/4 would fit. I'll let you know. All have been used in competition, with ARP studs, with no issues related to the spacers. The Weld wheels that we are using on the car now do not need any spacers, and it looks like Weld is solidly behind us, long term. These spacers have just been taking up space in the spares bin. |
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#4
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Member ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 72 Joined: 23-March 11 Member No.: 61,798 ![]() |
I'll take the pair of 1/2"ers off your hands. PM me with payment info.
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#5
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
I'm thinking about the 3/8s for the LT1, but I need to do some measuring first. How much for the studs and how tough to change them out?
Steve |
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#6
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
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#7
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
I'm thinking about the 3/8s for the LT1, but I need to do some measuring first. How much for the studs and how tough to change them out? Steve 1meanZ has first crack at the 3/8, I gotta remember to check the C4 hub fitment tonite. If he doesn't buy them they would work on the rear of your LT1 axle. BlaineFab price on ARP 2.5" long studs is $16/5pack and on the Dorman open bulge lugnuts is $16/10pack |
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#8
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Member ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 72 Joined: 23-March 11 Member No.: 61,798 ![]() |
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#9
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
Think the 3/8 ones will fit over a C4 rear knuckle? I'd like to space the C5 Z06(with hoosier race rubber) rears out just a tad, these would do just the trick. I'm assuming you've used these with no issues in competition, so they should be fine for my track days and time trials. I'll have to check tomorrow, I have a C4 rear hub at the shop. I'm pretty sure it will be the same as the C5 and the LS1 4th gens, tho. If so, the 3/8 would be too large and the 1/2 and 3/4 would fit. I'll let you know. All have been used in competition, with ARP studs, with no issues related to the spacers. The Weld wheels that we are using on the car now do not need any spacers, and it looks like Weld is solidly behind us, long term. These spacers have just been taking up space in the spares bin. I remembered to check - the C4 rear hubs are the same as the 4th gen fronts and C5, so the 3/8" spacer would be too large. The only place they will go is a LT1 rear. I have new 3/8" spacers in stock, properly sized for the C4 rear. Also, FWIW, I have a pair of 86 C4 rear knuckle/hub assemblies. This is the early suspension, I don't know if the knuckles are different than 88 up, but I do have an 88 C4 in the shop so if you need spares I could take some measurements and see if these would fit. |
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#10
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Mullet club chairman ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 786 Joined: 25-March 06 From: South Bend IN Member No.: 1,135 ![]() |
unless there is a failure path that I'm not familiar with, I hope I don't need spare knuckles. 2-3 track days and lots of street driving shouldn't be too much abuse LOL. They changed the offset somewhere in there and I think the knuckles are different. I'm using a 96 D44 so obviously it's the late version. I'll hold off on spares for now but you'll be my first call if I need something.
Sell the spacers to others interested, per our PM I'll order new ones once I measure again to verify the space I need. I'm also running ARP studs and open end lug nuts so no worries on the spacers. Thanks Alan. |
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#11
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
I'm thinking about the 3/8s for the LT1, but I need to do some measuring first. How much for the studs and how tough to change them out? Steve BlaineFab price on ARP 2.5" long studs is $16/5pack and on the Dorman open bulge lugnuts is $16/10pack Steve - The 3/8" spacers are yours if you want them. The OEM studs press out with a tie rod end puller, or a big Cclamp and socket. The ARPs pull into the flange the same way, or with a lug nut and washers. The trick in the rear is getting the length of the stud past the backing plate - it may be necessary to unbolt the brakes and backing plates to get them past. |
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#12
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
I'll take them. Are the lug nuts necessary? I've already got two sets. One set is the stock lugs, that are open on both ends, and then the set that came with my chrome ZR1 replicas, which are chrome, and closed on one end.
Steve |
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#13
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
PayPal received on the 3/8" spacers.
That leaves the 3/4" spacers. I made this set for Kens T/A - it widened the track to make full use of the eyebrow flares and 12.5" rims with 320/18 Yokos. He doesn't need them anymore with the 7.6" bs Welds. Would be useable with 275 on 9.5" rims, too, to get an extra 1/2" of track width over the rest of the field that are mostly using my 1/2" spacers. I don't plan to make these as a standard product, the 3/4" plate 6061 is just too expensive, and with the extra long studs required gets kinda pricey. One-off builds will be expensive, get these while they are cheap. These are thick enough that the longer 3.25" long ARP studs are required - retail on those is $31/5pack. I'll bundle a package together that will work on front or rear of any 4th gen - let me know if they are going on an LT1 rear and I'll open up the ID no extra charge. the pair of used 3/4" spacers two 5packs of new ARP-100-7713 studs 10 new Dorman bulge lugnuts total $140 + shipping and tax if CA add $25 if you want me to add lightening holes - would remove 16oz total of unsprung weight This post has been edited by Blainefab: Oct 18 2011, 07:57 AM |
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#14
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
I'm adding a set of 21 lugnuts - closed end, rather deep (1.6") from very end. The thread is std late GM 12mm x 1.5, conical seat, but they have a sleeve extending thru the wheel hole. They seem to fit fine on the Welds. Chrome finish, 21 ea (ya, I don't know why - a miscount maybe). They are new, never had a wrench on them. They are clean but a little dull, been in a bag upstairs for about 5yrs. I just wiped the top one off with a paper towel and it shines. $20
(IMG:http://www.blainefabrication.com/projects/2011_10_17/IMG_4739.JPG) |
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#15
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
All the spacers are sold, but the shiny lugnuts are still available.
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#16
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
Still got these pimpin lugnuts - they'd make a killer slingshot load $15
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