I started with a C5 EBCM and a wiring harness, Ken got them off of Ebay. I'll get you the part numbers. I needed the wiring harness only for the connector that plugs into the EBCM - it is a unique, multi pin connector.

The C5 ABS combines the hydraulics and electronics in the EBCM, so just the one module to mount. I replicated the C5 mounts, with 3 studs that engage rubber donuts in the EBCM, and located it near where the OEM Fbody ABS hydraulic module is located.

The ports on the C5 EBCM are labeled with function

For plumbing, I installed new LS1 Fbody front hardlines, they have a flex section at the ABS end, and the bubble flare fittings are compatible with the C5 EBCM, so just had to bend the hardlines up a bit, and plug them in.

I fabbed up new rear hardlines from the EBCM back to the axle, and used Global West chassis to axle flex lines. I fabbed new axle hard lines.

I put a new LS1 MC and booster on the car, and using a new set of LS MC hardlines as a starting point since the MC fittings are oddball, fabbed new hardlines from the MC to the EBCM. The rear line goes thru a Wilwood bias adjuster.

Electrical:

Red +12V thru a 25A fuse to the alternator
Blk, Blk/Wh Ground to chassis
Brn ign to switched side of ignition circuit - I put a dash switch with pilot light on this connection so the driver can turn the ABS system on/off on the fly.
Lt Blu stop to switched side of stop light circuit
a twisted pair from each wheel sensor:
left rear: Red/Blk
right rear: Wh/Brn
right front: Tan/Grn
left front: Yel/Blu

I salvaged the front hub harnesses, axle wiring harness and the rear bulkhead connector from a 4channel Fbody chassis, made up the rest of the rear twisted pairs.

That's it - no connection to a PCM, so this could go on anything, carb or EFI or whatever

There are no ABS ERR or ABS ACTIVE indicators, nor any diagnostic port - those would need to be wired thru a compatible PCM.

Bleeding - connect everything, bleed, leak check, drive it a bit in the paddock, carefully activating ABS, use some water or gravel if necessary, then bleed again. Rinse and repeat. It is important to get the system bled - air in the ABS system will try to kill you - ie pedal stuck to the floor with both fronts locked up. Do not drive it on track or on the street until you are satisfied that the system is fully bled of air.

This post has been edited by Blainefab: Aug 1 2012, 08:05 PM

Wow... So its just one single module + sensors/w associated wiring. How ridiculously simple.

I was originally intending on using the controller and module from a C4. It must be divine intervention that you happened to do this first. I thought I was going to find myself trailblazing my own R&D like so many times in the past.

And thanks in advance for any part numbers you come across! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Here's the EBCM that I installed in Kens car:

(IMG:http://www.blainefabrication.com/projects/2012_08_01/IMG_5274.JPG)

And here are the tags on the wiring harness that I got the connector from:

(IMG:http://www.blainefabrication.com/projects/2012_08_01/IMG_5275.JPG)

Looks like a build date of 4/3/2003 on the harness:

(IMG:http://www.blainefabrication.com/projects/2012_08_01/IMG_5276.JPG)

And for more options, here are the EBCM numbers from the 2001 C5 Z06 boxcar I have in the shop:
It has zero miles on it. I can sell it, but the bad news is that I'd need $60K for it. The good news is that you'd also get one bitching race car for that $60K: http://jeffstevens.org/C5R-kit.htm

(IMG:http://www.blainefabrication.com/projects/2012_08_01/IMG_5277.JPG)

60k huh? Really I would, but I already sold my kidney to get my project finished. I need the other one to live.
BTW... did Woodard ship out the goodies already?

This post has been edited by Driver_10: Aug 4 2012, 01:41 PM

Woodward says the column will ship out today

Good stuff! (took em' long enough)
Thnx for the update, BTW.

Any steer-column pics yet?

Got it, pics tonite

(IMG:http://i0.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/newsfeed/000/106/887/backpain-1292835351.jpg)

Goodies from Woodward, fab time for me:

(IMG:http://www.blainefabrication.com/projects/2012_08_15/IMG_5347.JPG)

Good stuff. Cant wait to see it!

Would this be my adapter also?

Speaking of which... Any closer to finishing?

This post has been edited by Driver_10: Aug 21 2012, 10:26 PM

Last nights work:

(IMG:http://www.blainefabrication.com/projects/2012_08_22/IMG_5370.JPG)

(IMG:http://www.blainefabrication.com/projects/2012_08_22/IMG_5371.JPG)

(IMG:http://www.blainefabrication.com/projects/2012_08_22/IMG_5372.JPG)

(IMG:http://www.blainefabrication.com/projects/2012_08_22/IMG_5373.JPG)

Wow... freakishly high standards as usual. Outstanding work.

What quick disconnect do you use when using a stock Column in a 4th gen? I contacted you on a price for the quick disconnect and adapter a while back, but I was curious as to what is all there for hardware. Thank you.

This is the QD I sell for the OEM column: The splined part slips onto the column and is retained by a nut, much like the OEM wheel. Then the black aluminum hub slips over the splined part and locks in place with the spring loaded ring. It has a standard 3 bolt pattern that accepts a circle track style wheel directly. In order to use a 6 bolt wheel (Momo/Sparco/Personal/etc) I also offer a 3bolt to 6bolt adapter - the silver aluminum piece that is pictured installed on the hub.

The QD hub includes the splined part, a nut, the hub and 3 screws. The 3-6bolt adapter includes 3 flathead screws and 6 stainless flathead screws for attaching the wheel.

I am also a Momo dealer, the model 78 in 330mm or 350mm in black suede is the most popular model for a race car. For a street car, driven with bare hands, I recommend a smooth leather wheel, the Momo Monte Carlo is the pick there.

(IMG:http://www.blainefabrication.com/projects/2009_08_04/IMG_2923.JPG)

Alan.. I pm'ed you, but I like the looks of that adapter.

James

Some of us just love the feel/control of suede so much that we use those wheels even for the street.

YES, it will get matted down, and end up smooth anyway if you drive it bare handed.

I try to avoid this by using suede gloves, even on the street, and even in the summer, much to the ridicule and consternation/embarrassment of my kids. I also take a brass/stainless brush to it at least once a week, which seems to help a lot. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)