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#1
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
Alright. Scales are next on the list. I've got Afco front coil over sleeves over koni shocks and pigtails on the rear. I want to practice adjusting the coilovers in my garage to save time at the shop (or someone's garage). For someone's first time doing this, any tips?
I think what I want to do is set the ride height at home so all I need to do is tweak the suspension to dial in the corner weights. So, that being said. I believe I've read that the front control arms should be more or less level to the ground. Same with the rear, correct? I think I'm sitting slightly lower than "level" right now. I think people buy heater hose or something to slip over the rear pigs to adjust height? I think I'm on 250# 11" springs with no isolators. I'm going to purchase 200" springs to use with isolators if the rear is too tight on the track. How would swapping out pigs at the track effect the corner balance? One more question. Let's say I need to add weight to the right front. Do I raise the ride height of the right front of left rear? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks guys! Steve |
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#2
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Member ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 199 Joined: 21-December 14 Member No.: 223,849 ![]() |
Alright. Scales are next on the list. I've got Afco front coil over sleeves over koni shocks and pigtails on the rear. I want to practice adjusting the coilovers in my garage to save time at the shop (or someone's garage). For someone's first time doing this, any tips? I think what I want to do is set the ride height at home so all I need to do is tweak the suspension to dial in the corner weights. So, that being said. I believe I've read that the front control arms should be more or less level to the ground. Same with the rear, correct? I think I'm sitting slightly lower than "level" right now. I think people buy heater hose or something to slip over the rear pigs to adjust height? I think I'm on 250# 11" springs with no isolators. I'm going to purchase 200" springs to use with isolators if the rear is too tight on the track. How would swapping out pigs at the track effect the corner balance? One more question. Let's say I need to add weight to the right front. Do I raise the ride height of the right front of left rear? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks guys! Steve Try this older GRM article. Also, remember to disconnect the end links of BOTH swaybars to eliminate preload. |
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#3
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
Alright. Scales are next on the list. I've got Afco front coil over sleeves over koni shocks and pigtails on the rear. I want to practice adjusting the coilovers in my garage to save time at the shop (or someone's garage). For someone's first time doing this, any tips? I think what I want to do is set the ride height at home so all I need to do is tweak the suspension to dial in the corner weights. So, that being said. I believe I've read that the front control arms should be more or less level to the ground. Same with the rear, correct? I think I'm sitting slightly lower than "level" right now. I think people buy heater hose or something to slip over the rear pigs to adjust height? I think I'm on 250# 11" springs with no isolators. I'm going to purchase 200" springs to use with isolators if the rear is too tight on the track. How would swapping out pigs at the track effect the corner balance? One more question. Let's say I need to add weight to the right front. Do I raise the ride height of the right front of left rear? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks guys! Steve Try this older GRM article. Also, remember to disconnect the end links of BOTH swaybars to eliminate preload. Great article, thank you. So I took a gender at my control arms and the fronts are angled up slightly (low ride height) and the rears have a decent amont of angle (again, low ride height). Am I remembering correctly that everything should be level with the ground? The rear is going to sit pretty high if that's the case. |
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#4
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
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#5
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
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#6
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
the rears have a decent amont of angle (again, low ride height). Am I remembering correctly that everything should be level with the ground? The rear is going to sit pretty high if that's the case. weld on relocation brackets - the UMI's work fine. Are bolt in ok? It would save me the ass pain of finding a welder. I'll get this done before putting the car in scales. |
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#7
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
the rears have a decent amont of angle (again, low ride height). Am I remembering correctly that everything should be level with the ground? The rear is going to sit pretty high if that's the case. weld on relocation brackets - the UMI's work fine. Are bolt in ok? It would save me the ass pain of finding a welder. I'll get this done before putting the car in scales. No. Absolutely, positively no bolt in. Must weld ed - I don't think the relocation brackets will affect your crossweights at all - their only affect will be to lengthen the wheelbase a tiny fraction, equally on both sides. So balance it, then get the brackets welded in. This post has been edited by Blainefab: Jan 21 2016, 05:57 AM |
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#8
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
the rears have a decent amont of angle (again, low ride height). Am I remembering correctly that everything should be level with the ground? The rear is going to sit pretty high if that's the case. weld on relocation brackets - the UMI's work fine. Are bolt in ok? It would save me the ass pain of finding a welder. I'll get this done before putting the car in scales. No. Absolutely, positively no bolt in. Must weld ed - I don't think the relocation brackets will affect your crossweights at all - their only affect will be to lengthen the wheelbase a tiny fraction, equally on both sides. So balance it, then get the brackets welded in. Ok thanks. |
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#9
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Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 3,889 Joined: 3-July 04 From: Pearland, Texas Member No.: 385 ![]() |
Alright. Scales are next on the list. I've got Afco front coil over sleeves over koni shocks and pigtails on the rear. I want to practice adjusting the coilovers in my garage to save time at the shop (or someone's garage). For someone's first time doing this, any tips? I think what I want to do is set the ride height at home so all I need to do is tweak the suspension to dial in the corner weights. So, that being said. I believe I've read that the front control arms should be more or less level to the ground. Same with the rear, correct? I think I'm sitting slightly lower than "level" right now. I think people buy heater hose or something to slip over the rear pigs to adjust height? I think I'm on 250# 11" springs with no isolators. I'm going to purchase 200" springs to use with isolators if the rear is too tight on the track. How would swapping out pigs at the track effect the corner balance? One more question. Let's say I need to add weight to the right front. Do I raise the ride height of the right front of left rear? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks guys! Steve Try this older GRM article. Also, remember to disconnect the end links of BOTH swaybars to eliminate preload. But once you get the car balanced, you'll want to balance out the sway bars, too when you reconnect them, unless you want some preload. So bolt them back up, check the cross weight, and loosen, or tighten the links accordingly. |
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#10
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
Alright. Scales are next on the list. I've got Afco front coil over sleeves over koni shocks and pigtails on the rear. I want to practice adjusting the coilovers in my garage to save time at the shop (or someone's garage). For someone's first time doing this, any tips? I think what I want to do is set the ride height at home so all I need to do is tweak the suspension to dial in the corner weights. So, that being said. I believe I've read that the front control arms should be more or less level to the ground. Same with the rear, correct? I think I'm sitting slightly lower than "level" right now. I think people buy heater hose or something to slip over the rear pigs to adjust height? I think I'm on 250# 11" springs with no isolators. I'm going to purchase 200" springs to use with isolators if the rear is too tight on the track. How would swapping out pigs at the track effect the corner balance? One more question. Let's say I need to add weight to the right front. Do I raise the ride height of the right front of left rear? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks guys! Steve Try this older GRM article. Also, remember to disconnect the end links of BOTH swaybars to eliminate preload. But once you get the car balanced, you'll want to balance out the sway bars, too when you reconnect them, unless you want some preload. So bolt them back up, check the cross weight, and loosen, or tighten the links accordingly. Ok good to know. Thank you. |
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