Yea, it would look like the old indy cars with sparks flying out behind it over bumps. lol. I'd have to build up some skid plates....for the entire chassis.

Yes, I think they used titanium plates to get those fireworks displays over bumps, compressions, and dips. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

You did a GREAT, sano job on the anti-seize application, as it almost looks like part of the shock body's anodizing, and as if it came that way. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

The trick is to unwind the spring perch, smear anti seize on the body and then wind the spring perch up through it (or down). It left a beautifully even line all the way around. It was an accident, but it worked.

I raised the ride height today, then I raised it again and then again. It's still too low, but it's close. It's about 25 3/4" to 26" to the fenders. I'm almost there.

I put 40 miles on it tonight. The car is still a bit too low and the back is on the bumpstops a lot. Enough that it's causing a bit of a rough ride over big dips. But overall the car feels great, turn in is crisp and instant (and I haven't aligned it yet, but I have some theories about that on this car), the ride quality is great, it's "sporty" without being abusive (more like a BMW "M" series car). A touch more ride height should take care of it, then to get the alignment done.

Alignment: This car seemed to have excessive toe in and little to no negative camber (based on the way it drove and the tire wear). Lowering it adds negative camber and toe out. I suspect it's close to 0 toe and "some" negative camber. It felt much better.

And on the way back into Columbus, we pulled up beside an older gentleman in a 2000 NBM Z28 convertible with a 6 speed and 32k miles on it. It was also a convertible and we wound up making the last few miles of the trip into Columbus together (while talking at traffic lights). Not a bad first drive.

Kevin,

Great to hear, and yes sounds like you need to get the height up some. We are actually working on a recommended ride height now to put in the instructions of the kit to make sure people aren't on the bumpers all the time. We just raised ours a tad bit, it was getting pretty low as well.

Right now I'm at 2 1/4" to the rear spring perch (the bottom of the perch) measured from the bottom thread on the shock body (it's not "exact", but it's a decent way to match them up). The front shocks are at 4 1/4" from the bottom of the threads on the shock body to the bottom of the spring perch. I kept raising the car and then it would settle when I moved it. lol. I made a few adjustments and then decided to go drive it a bit to settle things a bit. I'll make some adjustments again after work tonight. Right now I'm at roughly 26" to the fender lip (front and rear). That's at least 1/2" lower than I want it and I may go closer to 26 3/4" (not that the fenders on these cars ever seem to "match" from car to car).

That's interesting because my car is sitting at 25 1/4 front and 26 1/4 rear.

Think the bump stops are too long?

I'm using the factory bump stops. They were in perfect condition on this car, so I'll use them until they fail (they eventually do, but these look to have years left). In this case, I think the car is too low. If it were a track only car and I ran smooth tracks, it might be workable. For street use, I need to get a little more ride height so the suspension has time to work before bouncing off of the stops. I think people tend to run these cars too low, and it can work ok, but I feel like I need to add additional spring rate to stay at this height. In this case, that doesn't make sense (a heavy convertible that sees street duty and might go to the occasional autocross). I just need to raise the car. Honestly, the front seems to be working fine at 26", but I'll likely raise it a bit to match the rear. I have to look at it.

Did you take a pic of the rear coil overs mounted on the car? Maybe I missed it. I wonder how far from the bump stops that are on the shocks are compared to the factory frame mounted ones. Maybe the car needs to be raised a little and then trim the factory bump stops? I remember Alan talking about trimming them.

There are no bump stops on the rear shocks. I'm about 3/4" from the bumpstop touching the axle at ride height.

I picked up the wheels tonight from the shop. Wheel Medic completely refinished them for me (center caps and all, though I forgot pics of the caps) and mounted new tires. They are a charcoal grey with a metallic addition (I think it's metallic grey and a "spritz" of silver paint, but I'm not exactly sure how they did it....then it's all clear coated).

I raised the ride height again. I raised the rear adjuster 3/4" and I raised the front spring perches 1 complete rotation. Tomorrow I think I'm going to add 1/4" more to the rear and go another turn on the front shocks. I'm ok with it where it is (I have 1 3/4" to the rear factory bump stop), but I thought I might try going a touch more. Then I need to get it aligned and I'm ready to go.

I also grabbed some pics of the rear shocks installed in the car.

Is that paint or powder coat? Looks really good.

It's apparently both. I told them I really didn't want powdercoat because I've seen issues with it. But these guys do thousands of wheels. I guess I'll see how it goes. It's a black powdercoat, grey (paint I think?) and then a clear powdercoat.

My LCAs should be delivered today. I have an alignment scheduled for tomorrow morning. Tonight I get to make my last ride height adjustments and install the new LCAs and the wheels and tires. Then I'll have to start working on shock adjustments.

My wife drove the car and said it's truly a whole different car now. It feels much more like the BMWs she drove at the BMW school (when she worked for BMWUSA) and nothing like the original floaty pig that we started with. And it doesn't clunk or make noise. So far, so good.

Are you going to get it corner balanced?

I considered it, but it's a convertible. lol. Since any events I run with it will just be for fun (just to go do it), I can't see investing the time or money to corner weight it.

On the other hand, this seems likely to be a rather capable autocross car now and I'm a little sad it's not a hard top or T top car.... Oops. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

The way I see it is you spent a lot of money on that suspension. It'd be a shame to not take advantage of the adjustability. I think I paid like $75 to have mine adjusted on a set of scales, the fronts anyway.

Idk, maybe you could get it done and really not notice a difference or maybe it'll make your driving experience that much better.

If you don't mind sharing, how much did the wheel refinish cost ya ?

~DaVe

$120/wheel "refinishing"
$15/center cap (paint/refinishing)
"something" for painting the lug nut covers
$15/tire mount and balance
"something" to straighten the bent one (I have to pull the bill out of the console in the truck)

All total (tax and all), I walked out the door for about $665.

I raised both ends by one "turn" of the spring perch (adjuster). That's about 1/8" on the shock and a bit more at the wheels. I was going to go with two turns on each end, but one seems to be about where I wanted it. It might be a touch low, but it handles well, looks ok and I didn't get hung up on the speed bumps in the local parking lot tonight. I'm calling it a success.

I really like the coil overs. UMI and Sam Strano did an outstanding job on them. I haven't even had a chance to start tuning yet and the car already feels shockingly good. I'll get it aligned tomorrow and go from there. Everything I got from UMI has been top shelf and Ryan and the crew do amazing work and are all around nice guys. They will be in town this weekend and I'm going to catch up with them so Ryan can take this one for a spin. Seems only fair for all the effort he has put into helping me with this project. Thank you just doesn't seem to be enough.

And....it's "done" (at least for now). Alignment is scheduled for tomorrow morning.

(The close up gives a better idea what color the wheels are, they look dark in the big pic).

That looks really good