I saw pics of those prototype A-arms! Those look really slick.

I'm glad there's both a company that is interested in continued development and a racing series that is keeping things lively in the f-body community.

Steve, I also use their billet motor mounts in conjunction with the k-member. They are great pieces, and well worth it if you are doing the swap. They fit perfectly, and don't move the location of the motor like other brands. I think solid mounts are a must for a track car like yours.

He still does. He is actually making a reappearance at the national events this year, or at least the ones here in Ohio.

Would run the K-member if I could, but not able to in ESP and I don't think it's worth the weight penalty in CP.

This post has been edited by landstuhltaylor: Jun 23 2016, 10:34 PM

Well crap, looks like a NASA TT rules require a penalty for aftermarket cross members.

I have the standard K-Member with the boxed lower control arms on my 4th gen using 200 TW tires. The roads I drive on have large bumps and the k-member has scraped the ground at speed multiple times without any problems. My only complaint is the back lower control arm nut hits the body and required me to file down the nut slightly to fit properly.

Are these boxes A arms already released? Do they mount the coilover on those small tubes like they currently have on the website?

Maybe it shouldn't, but that coilover mount that goes on those lil tubes makes me hesitant.

The pedestal coilover mount works great and is pretty much bulletproof. We have a version of the boxed arm that uses a true double shear mount that allows use of a competition coilover. It's clean and simple. I'll find some pics.

Ramey,

Can you tell me if the delrin bushing equipped upper front control arms add castor and negative camber or are they effectively "stock" geometry?

They are stock a few thousandths away from stock geometry, with a tiny bit add'l caster (rearward relo) and slightly shorter pivot to ball joint. Prob about half degree each. I wasn't on board at UMI during initial design so I'd have to look up the numbers.

Easy solution there is to drop the K-member a bit. Can be done very quickly and without disconnecting anything as long as you only loosen the bolts and don't completely remove them.

What is this a solution to?

The lower control arm that needs to be filed.

The head of the nut hits the body. If I spaced the k member, I'd have to use 3-5 thick washers moving the k member down roughly 1/4-1/2 an inch. I bought my k-member with the control arms used from UMI a couple months back. I'm not sure if this problem has been solved through newer versions of the unit or perhaps I was supposed to use special umi hardware.

Shouldn't the nut be on the bottom?

I'm a little confused also. Not sure what needs resolving and there are is no special hardware required.

Post pics if that would help us.

thx

ramey

Sounds good. I'll try and get some pics this weekend. If you have the nut on the bottom, you would have to drop the k member to get the control arm out....

No you don't. Slots are long enough if you push the caster bushing all the way in you can drop the bolt straight down. You should always have the nut on the bottom. That way, if it manages to loosen up, the bolt won't fall out.

You're right I forgot my k member came welded so the bolts wouldn't slide in the slot. Mine hits the body because it is welded maxed. Thanks for the help!

Any guys running them in a 3rd gen?

3rd and 4th gen K members do not interchange. Or did I misunderstand the question?