 I'm thinking about rocking the LT1 a little longer.... |
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 Aug 24 2016, 02:52 PM
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#21
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Experienced Member  Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105  |
QUOTE (trackbird @ Aug 24 2016, 10:42 AM)  QUOTE (Steve91T @ Aug 24 2016, 10:01 AM) QUOTE (RichJ @ Aug 24 2016, 09:06 AM) Do you all think the LT1 just needs the Canton pan to avoid oil pressure issues? My 95 with 55k miles hasn't seen a road course since 2008, but I'm thinking of trying it again. It's been driven about 20 weekends a year since then with regular oil changes. Stock short block, stock oil pan, top end package making around 360 whp. I tend to shift below 6k on track and my local tracks are Summit Point and VIR. Just wondering if an Accusump is something to consider. Also, on the Canton pan, will it fit with Hooker long tubes? Hope this doesn't look like a thread jack. I'm sort of in the same boat with my LT1. I've done a lot of track days at VIR and CMP and I've never lost oil pressure with the Canton pan. The old engine I had was a 396 LT1 making 380 rwhp (i know, that's low for a stroker) and that pan was all that I needed. The last 3 track days this year on my bone stock LT1 I never lost oil pressure in the corners. And that was on track tires pulling 1.1 g's. A lot of people run accusumps, but in my case I don't need it. Are you relying on the factory gauge for that info? I had a 30 PSI sensor (below 30 psi it turned on an Autometer Pro light) and I saw it "constantly" autocrossing my 1992 Z28 on street tires with a TPIS oil pan (with a diamond "windage tray" and basic crank scraper). I even turned the light on with the 3 quart accusump running. This was on Sumitomo street tires. I might not have seen the light as much with a 15 psi sending unit, but 30 was my comfort limit since I might be at 6,400 rpm when the light came on. When that motor came apart (after 1,200 total miles), the #4 main bearing was wiped and the crank needed turned. No Autometer gauge. Sending unit in the unused port above the oil filter. |
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Aug 24 2016, 03:03 PM
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#22
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
QUOTE (Steve91T @ Aug 24 2016, 10:52 AM) No Autometer gauge. Sending unit in the unused port above the oil filter. Oh yea, I remember that gauge. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif) |
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Aug 24 2016, 03:07 PM
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#23
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Experienced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 |
QUOTE (trackbird @ Aug 24 2016, 11:03 AM) QUOTE (Steve91T @ Aug 24 2016, 10:52 AM) No Autometer gauge. Sending unit in the unused port above the oil filter. Oh yea, I remember that gauge. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif) Ha. Yeah the red blinking oil temp gauge? Lol. Talk about being destracting. Reminds me, I need to change the settings on that thing to not blink until 320. |
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Aug 24 2016, 03:08 PM
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#24
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Experienced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 |
So maybe the Canton pans really do work.
I'm torn with what to do with my dads LS1. Improved racing baffles and scrapers or a Canton pan. |
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Aug 24 2016, 03:55 PM
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#25
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Advanced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 359 Joined: 7-February 04 Member No.: 183 |
Do the LT1 Canton pans fit without modification? I know their Evo ones require some tweaking.
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Aug 24 2016, 04:28 PM
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#26
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Advanced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 739 Joined: 27-June 12 Member No.: 142,453 |
QUOTE (Steve91T @ Aug 24 2016, 03:08 PM) So maybe the Canton pans really do work. I'm torn with what to do with my dads LS1. Improved racing baffles and scrapers or a Canton pan. Improved racing, no question. Baffle, crank scraper, oil cooler adapter. Their parts have incredible fit and finish. Never worry about oil pressure again. |
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Aug 24 2016, 05:36 PM
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#27
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Veteran Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 3,887 Joined: 3-July 04 From: Pearland, Texas Member No.: 385 |
+1! IRs stuff looks and fits like it's off the GM assembly lines, and I mean that as a compliment!
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Sep 28 2016, 06:55 PM
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#28
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Experienced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 |
What do you guys think, should I throw cheap LT's on it? The thing is I need to rework the exhaust to add a cat before my state inspection in February. So I'm kinda thinking if I'm going to run this LT1, a little more power would be nice. Of course then I'd need a tune. Idk, think it's worth it?
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Sep 29 2016, 02:57 AM
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#29
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Veteran Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,511 Joined: 14-November 04 From: Homer Glen, IL Member No.: 540 |
QUOTE (Steve91T @ Sep 28 2016, 01:55 PM) Of course then I'd need a tune. Idk, think it's worth it? I'd make sure you can line up an LT1 tuner before you make that decision. Most places couldn't care less about Gen2s anymore. |
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Sep 29 2016, 02:32 PM
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#30
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Veteran Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 3,887 Joined: 3-July 04 From: Pearland, Texas Member No.: 385 |
^^ What he said!
When we got our 95 Z28, we took it to a local shop who did the tune. They did a decent job, as the car then put something like 408 HP to the ground afterward. After fighting getting the thing to pass emissions tests two years later, I took the car back to the SAME tuner to see if I could get an 'emissions' tune, they wouldn't even talk to me. I ended up going with PCMs For Less, getting a spare PCM with an 'emissions' tune. |
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Sep 29 2016, 10:31 PM
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#31
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Experienced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 |
Carolina Auto Masters in Raligh still messes with LT1's...for now. They are only 3 hrs away. A stock LT1 with LT's should have no problem with emissions so I'm not worried about that. I think the LT1 will get me through next season then my so winter project will be an LS1 swap. I can't see going more than 2 years with this engine. I just can't make up my mind if LT's are worth the cost.
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Sep 30 2016, 01:49 AM
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#32
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Veteran Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,511 Joined: 14-November 04 From: Homer Glen, IL Member No.: 540 |
Unless they're really cheap, the answer is no.
Work on setup and driving. There's a lot more to be found in the chassis and learning to tweak the suspension than in 20RWHP. You'll still have the same chassis after the engine swap, not so for the LTs. |
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Sep 30 2016, 10:41 PM
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#33
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Experienced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 |
QUOTE (nape @ Sep 29 2016, 09:49 PM) Unless they're really cheap, the answer is no. Work on setup and driving. There's a lot more to be found in the chassis and learning to tweak the suspension than in 20RWHP. You'll still have the same chassis after the engine swap, not so for the LTs. Looks like around $400 ish for LT's and a Y. I was only considering it because I have to redo my exhaust soon anyway too add a cat. Also I'm going to be racing TT3, which means I'll be way low on HP. That's why I was kinda thinking whatever extra hp I can gain will be nice. Actually I just remembered there might be a new class, TT4, which is a lower power to weight. I might fight that class better. When I was setting up the car. I copied what worked for others and I'm really happy with how the car handles. I'm not going to change a thing for a while. I'll see how it is at VIR which is a much faster track. That's where I may have to make some changes. |
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