Right. Stock manifolds and cats. There is zero drivable issues. Later today when I change the oil I'll take a video of the idle.

Sweet! I don't want to deal with headers on mine and I want good street manners and long valvespring life. So I'm interested to see how this cam works out.

I've got a problem with the steering. I get a vibration in the power steering when turning left only. Noticeable when at slow speeds whenn making large steering inputs. I was thinking it was air but its not. It's perfectly smooth to the right but vibrates and grumbles to the left. Fluid is topped off.

So I've got a metal barb in the high pressure line where I had cut the line for engine removal. Could that be a restriction that could cause this?

Dropping the car off at my dads today. Hopefully I'll get some videos this afternoon.

I would think if there was a restriction it would effect turning both ways... I would try turning it with the wheels lifted up off the ground to make sure nothing else is binding

So while I had the car on the lift, engine off, key on, I tuned the wheel back and forth and felt no binding. So then I drive the car to my dads house, 45 minutes away and didn't feel any vibrating at all. So I don't know, maybe there was air trapped in there somewhere.

Either way, it doesn't matter now because after my brother took the car for a test drive, it blew a high pressure line again. So I'm going to order new power steering lines and install them next time I'm at my dads.

New power steering lines will be ordered soon. Also we're going to do the CTSV calipers with 5th gen rotors and Carbotech pads. Has anyone had the rotors machined to fit the 4th gens? How much and what kind of a PITA is it? That's the only thing I don't like, but hopefully we won't be changing rotors very often.

So we need wheels. I may try to convince my dad to spend the money for new 18x10.5 speedlines with 315 Nt05's. I can't remember if spacers are required, but either way it'd probably be a good idea to replace all the lugs and studs since these have some miles on them.

So the engine has been running awesome. I hate that I blew the power steering line when I dropped it off because he really wants to drive it and obviously can't. We'll get it fixed soon though.

The only time I got some bucking is really when in parking lots and if I'm not smooth. Being that this is a mail order tune, I'd be willing to bet that can be tuned out with live tuning, which by the way we're going to do in a month or two. I'm anxious to see what the graph looks like with stock manifolds.

The cool thing is driving around in 5th at 30 mph at 1000 RPM is completely smooth. Zero surging. And it still makes enough torque to accelerate a effortlessly with zero protesting.

Last weekend I brought the car to my dads and this was the first time I got on the highway with it. On the on ramp to the highway I flooded it in 2nd and it spun all he way through 2nd. Not enough for me to get out of the gas, but enough to make it interesting. I just can't believe how hard this engine pulls. Now remember, I'm used to LT1's that are like tractor motors, low end torque, not much up top. It's impressive how much torque there is down low with this engine but what's really fun is how it pulls abover 4000.

Anyway, here's a walk around video. We need to take it to a muffler shop to have them fix the connection between the Y and the rest of the exhaust. It's about 1" too short and the only thing holding it together is a band clamp, which leaks.


https://youtu.be/Z57hHKS-Ces

And here my brother is recording while I pull out of my parents neighborhood. It spun through 1st and hooks in 2nd.

https://youtu.be/gkh7Wqwum4E

As it sits right now...

Car $2500
Shipping $600
Used short block $300-$400 (depending on selling old block for 3-400)
Improved Racing $500
TS cam package $850
Heads cleaned w/new seals $260
ARP head bolts $200

Call it $5500 after other gaskets and odd and ends. Not too bad!

That's a good report so far. I'm anxious to see the dyno curve after tuning. Then I'll figure out what (if anything) to do to the convertible (unless I collect a second one instead).

I'm planning to do this swap on my car. According to LS1Tech, the center hole needs to be enlarged by about 3mm, and the wheel stud holes should be large enough to accommodate the difference in bolt pattern (120mm vs 120.65mm). A decent machine shop should be able to handle this pretty easily. If you have a spare old hub laying around, you could give it to them with the rotor to make sure they get it right.

One option would be to use 2 piece rotors, then you only have to enlarge the hat once and you can replace the rings as needed. The only issue with this plan is the cost of 2 piece rotors is crazy, at least for the ones I've found (DBA rotors are at least $340 a piece, and Rock Auto has stock 1 piece rotors for like $38 a piece). If anyone knows an affordable 2 piece rotor, post it up!

This post has been edited by Mojave: Feb 28 2017, 05:03 PM

I hadn't priced anything out yet. If rotors are only $38/ea, I'll buy two pair and have them all machined that way there's a second pair ready to be bolted on.

What is that little window on the tach? Anyone know?

????

It's a window to see the connecting rods when they pop out of the block? Saves crawling under the car? (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)

I really don't know what window you're asking about. Pics?

Sorry, look at the first video when I start the car.


https://youtu.be/Z57hHKS-Ces

This post has been edited by Steve91T: Mar 2 2017, 01:21 PM

I've never seen that? At least not that I can remember.

I thought it looked homemade. I'll call Dave someday and ask him.

I agree with Kevin, that isn't factory.

That's where I lost interest on swapping to the CTS-V1 setup... having to machine the center of the rotor. I recall reading that the Z06 rotor doesn't need machining but that the pads don't reach to the outside of the rotor and leaves a significant lip.

I don't care to keep a lot of spares... I like the ease of going to a local store and getting spares that bolt right on. Is there a different hub which would match the rotor without machining? If we use the Dulaney adapters, is there a different SKF race bearing which would be compatible?

The Z06 rotor does leave a lip on the pads, and the rotor offset isn't quite right so you have to space the caliper out a bit with washers. I thought all f-body and C4/C5/C6 hubs used the same center bore, so I would ASSume the race bearings also use the same center bore but I don't have any yet. I have some of the Dulaney adapters but I haven't bought bearings. The 5th gen setup is a different bolt pattern so I don't think that would work.

Compared to the cost of running an aftermarket BBK and replacing rotors, getting 5th gen rotors machined is very cheap, and you won't find Stoptech rotors in stock at the parts store.

Maybe Hoosier/LPE/whatever they are called that does the rebuildable bearings could make a hub with the 5th gen center bore, or you could machine down the hub after you get it, but then you're stuck with bearings that you can't buy from a part store.

If parts store replacement parts are a must, it seems like C5/C6 brakes of some variety are the best option.

Well I'm thinking in a pinch you could just install a couple of washers to space the caliper and throw the Z06 rotors on.

You'll lose the "hubcentric" fit of the hub to center the wheel. The lug nuts are there to hold the wheel on, the hub is there to center the wheel and support the loads. I wouldn't have the hubs machined without a spacer to fit between the hub and the wheel (some aftermarket wheels used to include a "ring" to go over the hub that fit the oversized hole in the wheel).



You'll be amazed how flat and consistent washers are not. I believe you'll likely have a brake wobble/warped rotor feel. Shim stock might work, but washers generally aren't a good idea. I once adjusted a caliper on the teal wonder with washers. I also had a caliper come half way off on the freeway. So, do what you feel, but I'm going to recommend against it.

Well knowing how my dad drives, a set of rotors is going to last him the life of the car. So I'll give it a shot on the 1SC and see how much of a PITA it is. I still think it would be worth it to just get a couple of sets done at once that way if you need new rotors, they'll already be in the garage waiting for you.