*shrug* Been running the wheels on the race car without being hub centric for almost a decade. As long as you snug two lug nuts before you start running the others on, it's no big deal. I've heard of a couple guys end up in a bind when the hub centric spacer stuck on the hub and they needed to pull a rotor. It's a non-issue in my mind if you're running tapered lug nuts.

At one point, I had LT1 axles (IIRC) in a 10-bolt and the wheels wouldn't fit (C4 Turbines? Can't remember). Took a HSS cutter in a 1/2" battery drill and "machined" the lip out of the wheels. Worked fine.

If you need to shim the brake calipers, make sure you use a dial caliper to check the height of your washer stack. I have the adapter brackets spaced out .500+ using hardened washers. I don't even think the stack heights are equal to get caliper centered on the rotor. We are talking '80s GM quality control here...

Stuff can go wrong if you hack it in, but if you apply a little engineering thought to projects, you can get away with home brew fixes.

^^ that's good to know.

Ok some fun new parts that are about to be ordered.

(4) Toyo Proxes r888 315/30/18 ($1248 installed) ::ordered::
(4) C5 Z06 wheels 18x10.5 ($1300) ::ordered::
(2) CTSV 4 piston calipers ($300) ::ordered::
(2) CTSV hardware kit ($19) ::ordered::
(2) 2010 Camaro SS 14" rotors ($110)
(2) Flynbye brake lines ($85)
(2) Carbotech 1521 pads (street compound) ($170) ::ordered::
(1) High pressure power steering hose ($40) ::ordered::
(4) ARP studs and a bag o' nuts ::ordered::
(2) Blainfab 1/2" wheel spacers ($194) ::ordered::

This post has been edited by Steve91T: Mar 7 2017, 11:46 PM

After lots of research, I'm going to get Toyo Proxes r888's in 315/30/18's.


Also I've got a call into Sam and also Alan to see about new lugs/ARP studs and 15mm spacers for the front.

Why R888's? Those don't qualify as street tires for SCCA, and they aren't nearly as sticky as real R's. Why not Rival S? They also come in a 315/30R18.

This post has been edited by Mojave: Mar 7 2017, 08:34 PM

So my dad is going to be using the car as mostly a weekend car with an HPDE once in a while. The rivals are about $70/tire more expensive than the r888's. I really wanted to use the NT05's but they only come in a 295 size. The 888's are only $20/tire more than the NT05's.

I've been doing a lot of reading and the people who use the 888's on the street actually say they are a decent street tire.

So I figured we'd give them a shot.

I liked them as a rain tire. Never could quite figure out what made them "suck" in the dry compared to RA1s. Not sure if they didn't like heat or slip angle, but they would give up a lot on the front. When they were a NASA spec tire, I would run RA1s on the front and R888s on the back until we used up the R888s.

My dad and I used to jokingly call them snow tires. Fine when it's cold, but they sucked when it got warm. Haha.

USA only got the medium compound. They weren't spec long enough for me to try out my plan of ordering the soft compound from the UK. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Caveat: I personally have not used R888's on my Corvette. Everything that follows is an observation from instructing an auto-x student on R888's.

Unshaved from the factory, the R888's had decent grip on a dry auto-x course, but heated up dramatically after just one run. Had to cool them down between runs to achieve the best grip. The tires would start squalling when pushed to the limit, so you'll have ample warning before they break away. In the rain or on a wet course, they were great. No wheel spin under full power.

Shaving the tires supposedly cuts down on the heat buildup, but I can't image them not getting slick and/or unresponsive during a 20 minute HPDE session in the dry. Of course, YMMV, but I'd be weary of using unshaved R888's for track sessions.

Good Luck!

That should actually be about perfect. My dad really isn't interested in driving like his life depends on it, like I do. He pretty much is going to baby it around the track. He used to track an LT1 camaro when we were younger, then he sold it for a Lotus Elise. That's an amazing car, but it sucked some of the fun out of it for him because he never felt confident with it. So my goal with this car is to have good power to get him down the straights but I really want to focus on the handling. He drove my car recently and he couldn't believe how nimble it felt just around town.

So I'm hoping this car will have a high enough limit to allow him to stay comfortably below it, yet still allow him to have a good time and not feel like he's tip toeing around the track.

I'm also kinda hoping the CTSV brakes with Carbotech XP20's and these sticky 315's impress the hell out of him.

Are you running 1/2" spacers all around with the C5Z rear wheels?

House of Wheels Speedline 18x10.5's? Which finish? What center caps?
Are the rotors OEM? Where did you find them for $110 per pair?
You bought 4 18x10.5 wheels but only two 1/2" spacers? Is that price correct for two 1/2" spacers? I'd hope it was for 4 spacers.

House of wheels, four rear C5 Z06 wheels are $1300 shipped. They are brand new, OEM wheels in the argent finish. And they'll be here in a couple of a days.

I forgot to ask about center caps.

Rotors are autozone duralast 2010 SS Camaro rotors (need machining)

The price was the total for two spacers, ARP studs and new lug nuts for all 4 corners.

From the reading I've read doing, the offset is 54 (I think). That should be good for the rear, but the fronts need a spacer. Do you guys think otherwise? Please tell me know. The plan is to show up sometime next week with a truck full of parts. It'll be a fun father/son day of bolting on new parts.

http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=13206

This is an entire thread of C5Z rears on 4th gens. One guy ended up at 1/2" front, 7/16" rear. Another ran no rear and trimmed the bumpstops heavily.

Sounds like your dad should have bought a Miata

3/8" rear spaced ordered from Alan.

Thanks Chad. I had missed that. I'll be honest, my head was spinning reading all about what offsets work.

This post has been edited by Steve91T: Mar 9 2017, 05:04 PM

Instead of the Elise? Yeah maybe. But the Elise was way cooler.

Post up with how those fit with the 1/2 and 3/8 spacers. I'm planning to do the same setup.

Will do. Hopefully we'll get everything bolted up sometime next week.

Go to Tirerack and order a set of Centric rotors. Stoptech is part of the Centric "family". I've never had much luck with parts store rotors. We put new rotors on my wife's 2005 Accord. They warped in a week. A year later we warrantied them and swapped them. Warped again in about a week. I finally put Stoptech pads (street pads....same ones I put on my Camaro) on it and Centric rotors. They have been perfect for months.

The ones on my Camaro have also been great and Racerdad has the high carbon Centric rotors on his 3rd gen (LS1 brake conversion). No problems. And that car has a TON of "motor" in it.

If you're spending money to have them machined, I'd buy a better rotor to start.

crap... could've made you save some $
I'm getting rid of my 18x10.5 C6 wheels... they have slightly worn NT01 in them... could've sold whole thing for less than half your wheels.