This seems misleading for obvious reasons. What parts did you sell to fund the tires, what events did you win to get free tires, who did you know that was unloading said tires for dirt cheap? lol

Like others have said, you won't be winning unless you are on tires that WON'T last a season. Pay to play...orrr win lol. MANY have tried to do what you are doing...building a Camaro to compete against a Corvette, in the end they buy a Corvette.

Spend a lot up front for a Corvette, put a little money into it (tires/shocks/springs) or spend less up front on a Camaro but dump a lot of money into it (shocks/springs/bars/diff/weight loss/315 HOOSIERS/watts link or lowered PHB and more HP) and you MIGHT get close to a Corvette assuming similar drivers.

IMO focus on self improvement/making it reliable and having fun, not winning your class which has Corvette's in it. I'm all for being the "under dog" and beating Corvett's in a Fbody...but you are fighting a losing battle against a decent driver in a Corvette with an OK set of tires on it and an alignment lol.

That statement is not misleading in any way whatsoever. Run on good tires and all of the above happens assuming you have the ability to match them. $250 all-in for every single tire that was on my car this season and most of next, before even accounting for what I sold (which brings my costs into negative numbers). Anything that goes on the car next year will also be under $30/tire. I have friends who brought home over 3 sets of Hoosiers for free because they took what was being thrown out behind the Hoosier truck at Nats. Some of those had plenty of speed left.



Depends on how many runs in each heat cycle. For the single driver stuff I've been doing I get 80-100 fast runs out of them on mostly concrete. The material will last 150 runs or so if you take care of them but they won't be easy to win with.

This post has been edited by landstuhltaylor: Nov 22 2017, 10:21 PM

Wow! We usually get about 60 laps out of our A6’s, but we’re pushing it on really aggressive concrete. IFF we get more than a year before they’re Levi’s, they get replaced because the VOCs are boiled out and you can’t rely on them run-to-run.

But tires are everything. Spend your budget there, upgrade elsewhere as budget allows.

This post has been edited by CrashTestDummy: Nov 23 2017, 03:08 AM

You are still using A6s or is that a typo? The A7 stays fast much, much longer than the A6 does. They both have the same compound but the construction changed significantly.

Oops! Too many ‘Rita’s and not enough sleep. We’re on Hoosier slicks.

Yeah I've heard that's normal, and there is at least some evidence that they may not be any faster. More ultimate grip but they don't transition as well.

Heh, breaking stuff just comes with hitting the track. The number of transmissions and diffs that I've gone through in the last 10 years would make a sane person cry.

"Hey Dad, what're all those parts on the shelf?"

Those? That's probably a year or two of college at a good state school. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/rotf.gif)

The radial slicks seem to transition better than the old bias plies. They do take a little more air, though.

About relocating the battery....it’s not that I’m not willing to do the work, I just don’t want the weight of the added cables. I’m going to just get a tiny battery in the stock location.


Another thing that I need to consider is since the time trial class that I’m in (TT3), it is based solely on power to weight. Running wider than a 275 and also a non DOT tire come with penalties. I’m not sure exactly how much, might be as much as 20-30 hp. So I don’t know if I’d have the power to overcome a 315. But maybe Hoosiers in 275’s might be an option? I definitely want to try them now that I know they last longer than just one weekend.

Oh I did not know you were running in a such a restricted class, I thought it was just kind of open lapping or unlimited etc. Now I'm going to say, stop the insanity. If you want to run with or catch Corvettes, buy one. You will likely never be able to stay within the class rules AND beat other cars already better engineered to start with. I don't want to be a downer, but the quest seems unreasonable. If you love your F-body and want to do the best, great. I'm not saying don't have fun. But "winning" might require a different car.

Hoosier last more than a weekend, but they start to slow down after 3-5 heat cycles (my experience with R6s). By all means, try them. Purple crack is great if you can keep winning them.

I've never driven the R tires so I can't comment on those. I do know that A7s stay fast well past 3-5 cycles, but the envelop does get smaller very slowly. Eventually though you will take them out and they will be garbage all day long.

I would never use the A7 on a racetrack unless it was one and done fliers. After 3 runs on a 60 second course they will need to be sprayed even with 1 driver in the car and 75F temps.

My next race will be at the same track in February, so should be similar conditions.

It’ll be really interesting to see what kind of a difference just fixing the brake bias and LSD make.