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#1
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Member ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 175 Joined: 18-February 04 Member No.: 228 ![]() |
The firebird that I won in an auction does not have keys.
It appears as though I can drill out the keyhole and use a screwdriver? What size bit? 1/4 " screwdriver blade? If I was Jack Bauer, I wouldn't need any of this stuff... |
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#2
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FRRAX Owner/Admin ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 ![]() |
You'll need the resister setting for the pass key security, or you'll need a prom or a tune that disables it (the '93's were the last year that used a "prom" or a "chip", the 94 and up cars are uploaded with a tuner like we're used to these days). Otherwise, you can just screw a slide hammer into the ignition cylinder (where the key goes) and "BOOM", remove it (this will cause some damage to the column, no big deal on a lemons car, more of an issue on a driver or potential driver) then start with a screwdriver or pliers. But you're going to have to deal with the security system (VATS) first.
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#3
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
Butchering the lock cylinder will not necessarily release the lock pin - it is actuated by the cylinder by a lever but is not a part of the cylinder. The lock rod is oriented parallel to the column shaft, engages teeth on the lock ring.
For a car that is going to be driven I would not want loose parts in there that could potentially seize up the column Here's a post on how to mechanically disable the lock: http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?s=&...ost&p=91952 Is this an auto? 1993? Did the 93 have the 4L60 or the 4L60E? It at least needs a brake on signal to move from Park to Neutral. This post has been edited by Blainefab: Oct 11 2011, 07:54 PM |
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#4
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Member ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 175 Joined: 18-February 04 Member No.: 228 ![]() |
It's an auto, 700r4 from what I've read (4l60?)
I'm just winching the car onto the trailer, but I'll need to be able to steer it and if I can't get it out of park, I'll take out the driveshaft. |
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#5
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Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 3,876 Joined: 3-July 04 From: Pearland, Texas Member No.: 385 ![]() |
Mazda-dollies are your friend here. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif) It's those 4-wheel dollies you see in the tools catalogs:
http://search.eastwood.com/search?w=wheel+dollies We call them 'Mazda-dollies' because our Region got a set after a couple of wheel failures on cars in competition and the first few times they were used were to drag disabled Mazdas (usually Prepared RX7s) off course. We did have to drag a couple of blowed-up STi's off afterward, but they were already named. You'll probably also need to apply a couple of floor jacks in creative ways. The 'must depress brake to shift from park' lockout is just an electric solenoid. For an automatic, at least for GM B-bodies (Caprice, Impala SS), it's a plug on the front of the shifter body. Unplug it, and you no longer have to put your foot on the brake to pull the shifter out of park. The solenoid started failing 'on' on my 96 SS, so I just unplugged the switch at the shifter and never looked back. |
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