[Steve91T]

Hey guys. I have some questions about oil coolers.

How do I plum to the engine? I'm using a sandwich adapter for oil pressure and temp. There are two unused ports in that adapter. Can I use those for the oil cooler? One of those ports would be for the supply, but where does the return go? It's an LT1 with a Moroso pan.

My other question is are there any problems with mounting the cooler above the engine in the hood scoop? I'm planning on securin the lines to the bottom of the hood and run them down the drivers side hinge then to the engine. I can't imagine there would be any problems with the location, but I thought I'd ask in case you guys know something I don't.

I'm not going to run a thermostat for the oil. I'm just going to tape the back side of the cooler for street use.

[79T/A]

I'm assuming LT1 style ss hood? I don't think the cooler would get much, if any airflow from that scoop.

[Steve91T]

I'm assuming LT1 style ss hood? I don't think the cooler would get much, if any airflow from that scoop.

LS1 hood, same difference. We don't need very large oil coolers, right? When I would track my 396 LT1, oil temps would only push 250 on hot days with no cooler. Short shifting would cool it down then I could go again. My thinking is it'll be less air than putting it behind the radiator but it'll be ambient as opposed to 200+ degree air.

For now I'm tracking a stock LT1, but will have a cammed LS1 later this year (or when the LT1 blows up.

[CrashTestDummy]

Interesting idea, but I think you'll be spending a lot of time worrying about (or needing to worry about) how the lines are routed, and whether or not they're chafing some body or engine parts (with braided steel lines) or getting chafed by some body or engine parts (if they're not braided steel). Remember, the hood opens up and forward some. Additionally, those lines are heavy, and probably need support in several places when they're full of oil.

[Steve91T]

I guess I'll be the first to try it. If it doesn't work, I can always relocate it.

Obviously we know what an SS hood looks like.

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/490F8025-D442-44CA-AE2B-3024AB4A9F98.jpg)

The scoop opening isn't very large, but I think that's ok because it'll be cold air. Plus it won't have the restriction of passing through the radiator first.

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/835F6CBC-0230-4B2B-AE98-614735D12931.jpg)

Here's the back side. It's a much larger opening, so the air speed will drop, but it'll allow me to fit a decent size cooler there. I'm going to open it up as much as possible while leaving enough material to mount the cooler. I can fit a 15x4 oil cooler

So where do you ideally want the return line? The pan?

This post has been edited by Steve91T: Jan 12 2016, 08:10 PM

[KCG]

I guess I'll be the first to try it. If it doesn't work, I can always relocate it.

Obviously we know what an SS hood looks like.

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/490F8025-D442-44CA-AE2B-3024AB4A9F98.jpg)

The scoop opening isn't very large, but I think that's ok because it'll be cold air. Plus it won't have the restriction of passing through the radiator first.

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/835F6CBC-0230-4B2B-AE98-614735D12931.jpg)

Here's the back side. It's a much larger opening, so the air speed will drop, but it'll allow me to fit a decent size cooler there. I'm going to open it up as much as possible while leaving enough material to mount the cooler. I can fit a 15x4 oil cooler

So where do you ideally want the return line? The pan?

Do you have a front end conversion on your LT1 car?
Just wondering about where your air intake is.

[Steve91T]

I guess I'll be the first to try it. If it doesn't work, I can always relocate it.

Obviously we know what an SS hood looks like.

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/490F8025-D442-44CA-AE2B-3024AB4A9F98.jpg)

The scoop opening isn't very large, but I think that's ok because it'll be cold air. Plus it won't have the restriction of passing through the radiator first.

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/835F6CBC-0230-4B2B-AE98-614735D12931.jpg)

Here's the back side. It's a much larger opening, so the air speed will drop, but it'll allow me to fit a decent size cooler there. I'm going to open it up as much as possible while leaving enough material to mount the cooler. I can fit a 15x4 oil cooler

So where do you ideally want the return line? The pan?

Do you have a front end conversion on your LT1 car?
Just wondering about where your air intake is.

Yeah I swapped my 99 parts car front even over to my 97. Next year I'll be putting an LS1 in it though. I'm planning on using a cold air intake down in the left front bumper area.

[DAlgozine]

My opinion, I wouldn't put attached the oil cooler to the hood. I would put it low, either in front of , or directly behind radiator.
One reason is extra weight , which is above the center of gravity and the strain on the hood shocks.
Two I wouldn't want oil lines to move up and down with the hood. Opportunity for a failure/leak.

If you are determined to install the cooler in that space in the hood, I would mount it to the top of the radiator, so that its a rigid mount and doesn't go up and down with the hood.

[Steve91T]

My opinion, I wouldn't put attached the oil cooler to the hood. I would put it low, either in front of , or directly behind radiator.
One reason is extra weight , which is above the center of gravity and the strain on the hood shocks.
Two I wouldn't want oil lines to move up and down with the hood. Opportunity for a failure/leak.

If you are determined to install the cooler in that space in the hood, I would mount it to the top of the radiator, so that its a rigid mount and doesn't go up and down with the hood.

I thought about the lines moving with the hood. Its something I'd have to keep an eye on. The weight of this aftermarket hood is considerbly lighter than the stock steel Z28 hood, so I think the weight of the cooler will be fine.

Where is your cooler on your cmc car?


Soooooo........where does the return line go????????

[Steve91T]

I'll scrap the idea. Maybe I'll try for somewhere in the bumper and duct cold air to it.

[DAlgozine]

My opinion, I wouldn't put attached the oil cooler to the hood. I would put it low, either in front of , or directly behind radiator.
One reason is extra weight , which is above the center of gravity and the strain on the hood shocks.
Two I wouldn't want oil lines to move up and down with the hood. Opportunity for a failure/leak.

If you are determined to install the cooler in that space in the hood, I would mount it to the top of the radiator, so that its a rigid mount and doesn't go up and down with the hood.

I thought about the lines moving with the hood. Its something I'd have to keep an eye on. The weight of this aftermarket hood is considerbly lighter than the stock steel Z28 hood, so I think the weight of the cooler will be fine.

Where is your cooler on your cmc car?


Soooooo........where does the return line go????????

My radiator has a built in oil cooler, however, previous cars, I've put the oil cooler directly behind the lowest part of the radiator. That is where my power steering cooler is currently located. Very safe, secure and it will get plenty of air.
These coolers don't typically need fresh, forced air , just air movement across them is typically sufficient.

Return line ? I have always used a remote oil filter adaptor/ sandwich type. It is installed in place of the oil filter and has "inlet" and "outlet" ports. Below is what I have now, I'm sure they make them for the LT1.


http://www.canton.carshopinc.com/product_i...id/12349/22-593


(IMG:https://dalgozine.smugmug.com/Other/Camaro-parts/i-LnCVCjw/0/O/Canton%20LS1%20oil%20adaptor.jpg)

This post has been edited by DAlgozine: Jan 13 2016, 08:37 PM

[DAlgozine]

Here is a photo of a sandwich type for an LT1 with oil filter. MOCAL EOC filter adapter with inlet and outlet ports.


(IMG:http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c169/qwik93awd/EOC/OilFilterAdapter.jpg)

[Steve91T]

Hey thanks for the help. I need to look at my adapter to see what ports it has ok it. I didn't realize they had an "in" and "out" on them. I thought they were all out.

Ill put the cooler behind the radiator. One more question. What size is recommended?

Thanks again,
Steve

[Steve91T]

This is what Canton sells for the LT1. They said it replaces the stock bypass. Is that necessary? Or can I get a cheaper one that just goes between the bypass and the filter?

[CrashTestDummy]

You might be able to get an old oil cooler line assembly off a 94-96 Impala SS or Caprice 9C1. The rubber lines on them, or rather the connection from the hard line to the rubber lines, are prone to leak, so people just swap them out with the Doorman replacement. You could probably get that assembly from a junk yard for nothing. Cut the hard lines at the front of the engine, and attach your AN hoses to your cooler. Just another way to skin the cat.

Page with image of oil cooler adapter

&

Notes on replacing the oil cooler on a 9C1

And some more info here:

More Impala SS/9C1 oil cooler info

This post has been edited by CrashTestDummy: Feb 23 2016, 10:18 PM

[Steve91T]

Interesting. I'll have to look into that. I really don't want to spend much on this engine because it's being replaced with an ls1 this year.

[Steve91T]

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/ear-510erl

Would something like this work? I don't think I have time to try to find a used part.

This post has been edited by Steve91T: Feb 24 2016, 01:53 PM

[Steve91T]

Anyone know if that adapter will work? I think it's the correct thread pitch.

[nape]

If you're going to replace the engine later this year anyway, forget the oil cooler.

If you're worried about the oil breaking down, just change it more often and/or run a thicker oil.

I've had high temp problems on my AI car for a long time due to the radiator and inlet being too small. By high, I've see 260-270* WATER temp from May-Sept events. I don't run an oil temp gauge, but I'm assuming it would be pegged.

Guess what? Main bearings always look good because I change the oil and filter often. If the water gets to the 260* range, the oil only gets run for that weekend. Everything gets so hot that it starts melting the cam bearings, but they still last two seasons. Oil is Valvoline VR1 20w50.

This post has been edited by nape: Feb 28 2016, 08:23 PM

[Steve91T]

If you're going to replace the engine later this year anyway, forget the oil cooler.

If you're worried about the oil breaking down, just change it more often and/or run a thicker oil.

I've had high temp problems on my AI car for a long time due to the radiator and inlet being too small. By high, I've see 260-270* WATER temp from May-Sept events. I don't run an oil temp gauge, but I'm assuming it would be pegged.

Guess what? Main bearings always look good because I change the oil and filter often. If the water gets to the 260* range, the oil only gets run for that weekend. Everything gets so hot that it starts melting the cam bearings, but they still last two seasons. Oil is Valvoline VR1 20w50.

Well what I'm afraid of is I'm running a stock Y pipe that I'm pretty sure is touching my canton oil pan. Just running around town I'll see 220 degrees. I'm afraid because of that, my oil temp will be way high. But if you had no problems with the temps you saw, maybe I will be fine. I was planning on running Rotella synthetic 5w-40. I use that in my diesel, boat and M3. It's a great oil.

[CrashTestDummy]

Changing the oil often is a great recommendation. I've always heard that if the engine overheats, change the oil. Probably a great idea, as you can start cooking the good stuff out of the oil at elevated temps.

[nape]

Well what I'm afraid of is I'm running a stock Y pipe that I'm pretty sure is touching my canton oil pan. Just running around town I'll see 220 degrees. I'm afraid because of that, my oil temp will be way high. But if you had no problems with the temps you saw, maybe I will be fine. I was planning on running Rotella synthetic 5w-40. I use that in my diesel, boat and M3. It's a great oil.

K.I.S.S.

Change the oil after every weekend if you see elevated oil temps. Figure the cost of oil + filter vs. oil cooler + plumbing (and replacing all of it if the engine happens to send shrapnel through it).

Your y-pipe pre-heater is good on the street if it gets the oil up to 220 degrees and cook off the condensation in the oil. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[Steve91T]

One thing I didn't mention is I have an unused oil cooler sitting in the garage. I was thinking a cheap adapter and some rubber oil lines and some fitting would be all I need. But, if you guys think I can get away with just changing the oil then I'm all for it.

So on a bone stock 120k junkyard engine, what are the max temps you'd like to see before you back off and let it cool?

[CrashTestDummy]

Oil, or water temps?

[Steve91T]

Oil, or water temps?

Both. When am I going to do damage. I know there's really no hard number, but there has to be a general number for both.

This post has been edited by Steve91T: Feb 29 2016, 04:16 AM

[mr.beachcomber]

Oil, or water temps?

Both. When am I going to do damage. I know there's really no hard number, but there has to be a general number for both.

Rule of thumb that I use for any engine, DD or race, is never let the water temperature hit 260F. If it does, cool the engine down using forced air (all my engines have electric fans) or cut if off completely. I take my water temp off the cylinder heads and run a mechanical gauge in the race car for an instant response. (It's scary the first time you chill the engine in the pits only to see the water temp start rising to 230F or so!)

For oil temps, I use 230F max for conventional (dino) oil and 280F for full synthetic. These are safety limits only. Most oil can handle further heat, but I don't want to push it. (I ran dino oil in the B Production Vette in the 70's and pushed the envelop out to 250F. Changed the oil and filter after every race weekend, but still found an incredible amount of sludge in the engine when it was time for a rebuild. Racing oils back then didn't have any detergents in them to reduce the amount of ash build up in the combustion chamber.)

During the 80's I switched to RedLine synthetic for the race car and Mobil 1 for the DD. RedLine tech support suggested running their oil up to 300F on a regular basis; but change it if I exceeded 320F. (They also recommended a minimum oil temp of 185F during racing conditions so don't over cool your oil.)

[CrashTestDummy]

300, wow. I thought I read somewhere, and absolutely do not remember where, that if the oil temp got around 375, that was hot enough to start really softening the babbit material on the bearings. Depending on where you measure the oil temp, there are parts of the engine that could be pretty close to that temp.

[Blainefab]

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/ear-510erl

Would something like this work? I don't think I have time to try to find a used part.

No - that one only has 3/8" ports, you need 1/2" here. Get the Canton piece, and get the Canton block adapter replacement too. The OEM block adapter is pot metal, it will crack if you hang anything on it.

Nothing fits great here, esp if headers are close. My SOP is to remote the filter.

[Steve91T]

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/ear-510erl

Would something like this work? I don't think I have time to try to find a used part.

No - that one only has 3/8" ports, you need 1/2" here. Get the Canton piece, and get the Canton block adapter replacement too. The OEM block adapter is pot metal, it will crack if you hang anything on it.

Nothing fits great here, esp if headers are close. My SOP is to remote the filter.

Ok well since I'm changing to an ls1 later this year, I'll just skip the cooler and keep an eye on the temps.

[Steve91T]

Well my oil pan pre heater works well. The oil temps skyrocketed. It would jump to upper 200's and eventually get to about 315. It seemed to stabalize there. I was running a good brand new oil and only for a few sessions so I didn't worry about it. But I have to do something before my next event. I don't even want to know what the temp of the oil in the pan was.

I think I'll drop the Y pipe and go to town with a BFH to give me some room, although I know it's not the right thing to do.

I really want an LS1 soon, so spending any money on this current engine is a waste. I briefly considered long tubes and a full exhaust, but it's not worth it.

Maybe it would be better to just have a shop cut the crossover pipe and bend a new pipe in the same location, just bent down and away from the pan. Shouldn't be very hard to do.

[bubba353z]

I think I'll drop the Y pipe and go to town with a BFH to give me some room, although I know it's not the right thing to do.

I'd try this first

Jegs

[Steve91T]

I think I'll drop the Y pipe and go to town with a BFH to give me some room, although I know it's not the right thing to do.

I'd try this first

Jegs

Yep I think you're right. I didn't even think of that.

Thanks

[Blainefab]

I think I'll drop the Y pipe and go to town with a BFH to give me some room, although I know it's not the right thing to do.

I'd try this first

Jegs

Yep I think you're right. I didn't even think of that.

Thanks

Don't beat on the pan - there is 'stuff' in there. The OEM Ypipe is pretty sturdy stuff, I don't think you'll get much clearance without mangling it.

IIRC I've sliced and added about 1/2" to the Ypipe near the drivers side manifold junction - that pushes the crossover down and away from the pan.

the Ti thing is cool but a piece of thin stainless sheet and a couple hose clamps will work for a whole lot less $$. Set it up with an air gap between the sheet and the Ypipe

[Steve91T]

I think I'll drop the Y pipe and go to town with a BFH to give me some room, although I know it's not the right thing to do.

I'd try this first

Jegs

Yep I think you're right. I didn't even think of that.

Thanks

Don't beat on the pan - there is 'stuff' in there. The OEM Ypipe is pretty sturdy stuff, I don't think you'll get much clearance without mangling it.

IIRC I've sliced and added about 1/2" to the Ypipe near the drivers side manifold junction - that pushes the crossover down and away from the pan.

the Ti thing is cool but a piece of thin stainless sheet and a couple hose clamps will work for a whole lot less $$. Set it up with an air gap between the sheet and the Ypipe

Sorry, I meant beat on the Y pipe, not the pan.

Im thinking about lowering y pipe enough to install header wrap then bolting it back up. I'll be able to see how effective it is by driving it on the street. If that doesn't work, I'll have a shop fix it properly.

[Steve91T]

So tonight I loosed the Y pipe and wrapped the y pipe with headed wrap I picked up from autozone.


(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/82D64828-C3B5-42C1-BCD4-A3F342202BCF_1.jpg)


I took it for a spin, excited to see how much it lowered my oil temps. The result? Zero. Nada. Zilch. Not a single degrees difference. Oil temps went right to 220 while just gently crusing around. Then I got on it a couple of times and they went straight to 230+.

I don't get it. I thought for sure it would have done something.

What else can cause high oil temps?

[nape]

What were the water temps? Where is your oil temp probe (pan, after cooler, etc)?

[Steve91T]

What were the water temps? Where is your oil temp probe (pan, after cooler, etc)?

Water temp measured at the head was 190. Oil temp is taken from the unused port just north of the filter. No cooler.

[mr.beachcomber]

....I took it for a spin, excited to see how much it lowered my oil temps. The result? Zero. Nada. Zilch. Not a single degrees difference. Oil temps went right to 220 while just gently crusing around. Then I got on it a couple of times and they went straight to 230+.

I don't get it. I thought for sure it would have done something.

What else can cause high oil temps?

Oil pooling in the heads and engine's lifter valley would cause higher oil temps as a smaller amount of circulating oil is handling all the heat from the engine. I'd check both heads and make sure the oil drain back holes are working properly, e.g., no debris blocking any of the holes. If you're using the engine valley oil baffles standoff tubes, I'd take them off as they tend to pool oil in the lifter valley and the amount of oil windage they reduce isn't worth it on a non-race engine.

If oil drain back isn't a problem, and you're not using the oil for any type of piston cooling, I'd next look at a partially stuck oil bypass valve in the oil pump. (You should have noticed a decrease in operating oil pressure if this did in fact happen though.)

Finally, I'd use a bore scope to check the Moroso oil pan's baffling to make sure that you are pooling oil behind a swing gate or baffle.

Hope this helps.

[Steve91T]

....I took it for a spin, excited to see how much it lowered my oil temps. The result? Zero. Nada. Zilch. Not a single degrees difference. Oil temps went right to 220 while just gently crusing around. Then I got on it a couple of times and they went straight to 230+.

I don't get it. I thought for sure it would have done something.

What else can cause high oil temps?

Oil pooling in the heads and engine's lifter valley would cause higher oil temps as a smaller amount of circulating oil is handling all the heat from the engine. I'd check both heads and make sure the oil drain back holes are working properly, e.g., no debris blocking any of the holes. If you're using the engine valley oil baffles standoff tubes, I'd take them off as they tend to pool oil in the lifter valley and the amount of oil windage they reduce isn't worth it on a non-race engine.

If oil drain back isn't a problem, and you're not using the oil for any type of piston cooling, I'd next look at a partially stuck oil bypass valve in the oil pump. (You should have noticed a decrease in operating oil pressure if this did in fact happen though.)

Finally, I'd use a bore scope to check the Moroso oil pan's baffling to make sure that you are pooling oil behind a swing gate or baffle.

Hope this helps.

How do I check the drain holes in the heads? Pull the valve covers? And what about the oil baffle standoff tubes? I don't know what those are.

Oil pressure is very good. 40 -60 hot.

I know I have over filled the oil by probably 1 quart. Maybe I'll drain some and see if that helps.

Maybe I should just install an oil cooler.

Thanks for your help. I've got another track day next week.

This post has been edited by Steve91T: Apr 1 2016, 03:01 PM

[Steve91T]

My oil press is 60 psi at 2000 rpm when hot. Almost 80 when cold. Is that a little high?

[mr.beachcomber]

...How do I check the drain holes in the heads? Pull the valve covers? And what about the oil baffle standoff tubes? I don't know what those are.

Just pull off the valve covers. The oil drain back slots are at both ends of the heads. If oil is pooling there, you would see it. The standoff tubes are aftermarket. They're usually aluminum, stand about 2" high with a breather hole in the end, and screw into the oil drain back holes in the lifter valley next to the cam.

Oil pressure is very good. 40 -60 hot.

It almost sounds like an aftermarket pump. I haven't had a stock LT1 in years, but that sounds a little high to me for a stock pump. Hey current LT-1 owners, what do you guys normally see?

If it's an aftermarket oil pump, most people add the Melling high volume pump (+25% volume) with the pink by-pass spring that would give those pressure values. (If the engine doesn't need high volume oil, it could be the oil is getting added heat from being by-passed from the pump directly into the pan and then going through the same process again and again.)

I know I have over filled the oil by probably 1 quart. Maybe I'll drain some and see if that helps.

Normally, adding a full quart of oil just increases your crank windage. If you have an aftermarket high volume pump, you'll need the extra quart of oil to keep from running low on oil around the pickup and possibly sucking air. More oil slows down the heating-releasing ability of the oil in the sump as the cooler oil then to cling to the surface of the pan acting as a buffer between the pan's radiating surfaces and the hotter oil.

Maybe I should just install an oil cooler.

It would help lower your oil temps. I prefer the thermostat controlled units myself especially for street driven vehicles. All the extra oil flowing through the cooler makes reaching operating oil temperatures that much longer. (I prefer 185F.)

Thanks for your help. I've got another track day next week.

Sorry that I can't provide anything more than suggestions at this point. Hope that you're able to find out what causing the additional heating of the oil before your next track day.

[Steve91T]

That's a huge help. Thank you for taking the time.

I bought the engine off Craigslist complete for $380. It had, supposedly, under 120k miles and had been sitting for years. When I pulled the valve covers, it was very clean. The compression was all over the place. I figured it was just dry and needed to run. Because of the unknowns, I did put the adtermarket oil pump in. To my surprise when I started it, it had no smoke and really strong oil pressure. As I've been running the engine, it's been running better and better. It's very smooth, doesn't smoke at all, and doesn't burn any oil. I probably should have just used a stock oil pump, but I had no idea this engine was so healthy.

I'm just going to order an oil cooler adapter and install it on Wednesday. Track day is Thursday. Plenty of time (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) .

[Steve91T]

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/ctr-22-726

I'm thinking about this kit. Is that the correct sandwich adapter?

[Steve91T]

Actually I think this is the thread pitch I need.




For 13/16-16 inch thread and 2-5/8 inch gasket size spin-on oil filter.

[mr.beachcomber]

Actually I think this is the thread pitch I need.

For 13/16-16 inch thread and 2-5/8 inch gasket size spin-on oil filter.

The adapter and thread sizes you mentioned are for a 1st gen SBC. My '93 LT1 used a metric AC Delco PF52 oil filter that had a thread size of M18 x 1.5 and used a different gasket size (slightly larger?).

I think that you can install the old 1st gen SBC spin-on oil filter adapter in the LT1 block to accept the the sandwich adapter you selected from Summit Racing. Unfortunately, unless you find one used, the new ones cost $$.

If this seems like too much bother, I'm sure someone sells the correct hardware for an LT1 sandwich adapter.

[mr.beachcomber]

...Because of the unknowns, I did put the adtermarket oil pump in. To my surprise when I started it, it had no smoke and really strong oil pressure. As I've been running the engine, it's been running better and better. It's very smooth, doesn't smoke at all, and doesn't burn any oil. I probably should have just used a stock oil pump, but I had no idea this engine was so healthy...

You should be good to go with the aftermarket oil pump. The oil pressures you mention fit the type of by-pass spring used by Melling (pink). If it were a high volume pump, you would have required a special pick-up for the pump due to the larger gears in the pump.

[Steve91T]

Actually I think this is the thread pitch I need.

For 13/16-16 inch thread and 2-5/8 inch gasket size spin-on oil filter.

The adapter and thread sizes you mentioned are for a 1st gen SBC. My '93 LT1 used a metric AC Delco PF52 oil filter that had a thread size of M18 x 1.5 and used a different gasket size (slightly larger?).

I think that you can install the old 1st gen SBC spin-on oil filter adapter in the LT1 block to accept the the sandwich adapter you selected from Summit Racing. Unfortunately, unless you find one used, the new ones cost $$.

If this seems like too much bother, I'm sure someone sells the correct hardware for an LT1 sandwich adapter.

Summit has the Canton M18x1.5 in stock. I'll order it as well and see which one fits and return the one that doesn't.

Thank you for the help.

[mr.beachcomber]

Obviously not thinking when I answered your post about the thread size, but the oil filter that you're currently using should determine which size fittings you need. The metric M18 x 1.5 PF52 type filter and UNS 13/16-16 PF454 type filter are not interchangeable so which ever one you're using would indicate what size threads your spin on oil filter adapter has. Hope this helps! Sorry if my response caused you to order extra parts!

[Steve91T]

Obviously not thinking when I answered your post about the thread size, but the oil filter that you're currently using should determine which size fittings you need. The metric M18 x 1.5 PF52 type filter and UNS 13/16-16 PF454 type filter are not interchangeable so which ever one you're using would indicate what size threads your spin on oil filter adapter has. Hope this helps! Sorry if my response caused you to order extra parts!

No it's ok, I'll just return what I don't need. I know I'm using the oil filter for a 97 LT1 Camaro according to the book at autozone. But I've got no idea what the threads are. Guess we'll find out on Tuesday.

[slowTA]

http://www.wixfilters.com

The wix filter look up should give you the correct threads and other filter dimensions.

[Steve91T]

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/C5ACE7F4-5ECC-40EC-8C89-11AB4A159E60.jpg)

I was so excited to get the oil cooler installed when....the adapter doesn't fit. The diameter is too small. I tried to get the adapter to thread just for the hell of it and I couldn't. But then again, I didn't try too hard. I'll try again when I change the oil I an a few days after I cook this oil to over 300 degrees. Better yet, I'll call canton and have them send me the correct one.

[CamaroRick]

Hey guys. I have some questions about oil coolers.

How do I plum to the engine? I'm using a sandwich adapter for oil pressure and temp. There are two unused ports in that adapter. Can I use those for the oil cooler? One of those ports would be for the supply, but where does the return go? It's an LT1 with a Moroso pan.

My other question is are there any problems with mounting the cooler above the engine in the hood scoop? I'm planning on securin the lines to the bottom of the hood and run them down the drivers side hinge then to the engine. I can't imagine there would be any problems with the location, but I thought I'd ask in case you guys know something I don't.

I'm not going to run a thermostat for the oil. I'm just going to tape the back side of the cooler for street use.

If no ones mentiond it already the moroso pan kicks out pretty far and the factory cooler wont work but the LT4 cooler will clear. Ive been down this road in the past. I called Canton to let them know what works with their own pan. They didnt have any notes before

Mine came with an LT4 oil cooler #10244123 the radiator I have has a coolant return to the adapter.

This post has been edited by CamaroRick: Apr 17 2016, 06:09 AM

[CamaroRick]

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/C5ACE7F4-5ECC-40EC-8C89-11AB4A159E60.jpg)

I was so excited to get the oil cooler installed when....the adapter doesn't fit. The diameter is too small. I tried to get the adapter to thread just for the hell of it and I couldn't. But then again, I didn't try too hard. I'll try again when I change the oil I an a few days after I cook this oil to over 300 degrees. Better yet, I'll call canton and have them send me the correct one.

It will def keep your oil cooler than 300 I take it Canton didnt take notes again lol LT4 Cooler worked for me same as c4 vette late lt4 cooler i think but don't entirely remember. It would make sense if they were. I can imagine they designed a pan in the 90's for a LT4 corvette first.

EDIT: LT4 optioned cars

This post has been edited by CamaroRick: Apr 19 2016, 10:06 PM

[CamaroRick]

(IMG:http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n608/CamaroRick/20160417_0203161.jpg)

This post has been edited by CamaroRick: Apr 17 2016, 06:48 AM

[mr.beachcomber]

...It will def keep your oil cooler than 300 I take it Canton didnt take notes again lol LT4 Cooler worked for me same as c4 vette late lt1 cooler i think but don't entirely remember. It would make sense if they were. I can imagine they designed a pan in the 90's for a LT1 corvette first.

Just a quick questions about the LT4 cooler, is this an aftermarket piece? The reason I ask is Chevy dropped the KC4 oil cooler option on the C4 when the factory fill changed over to Mobil 1 starting with the 1992 model using the logic that synthetic oil didn't need an oil cooler. Thanks!

[Steve91T]

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/6EB08567-7EEE-4B79-BAF3-C6A996BEE840.jpg)

This is what I'm dealing with. I'm screwing my oil filter directly to that. I'm using an oil filter for a 97 LT1. Mobile 1 M-111, for example.

[mr.beachcomber]

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/6EB08567-7EEE-4B79-BAF3-C6A996BEE840.jpg)

This is what I'm dealing with. I'm screwing my oil filter directly to that. I'm using an oil filter for a 97 LT1. Mobile 1 M-111, for example.

Well, learned something new today. The Mobil 1-111 oil filter is the same one I use on my '89 Z51 Vette. Looked up your vehicle and dang if it isn't the same filter recommended for your Camaro. (My '93 LT1 Vette used a Mobil 1-201 oil filter.) Who would of thought that Chevy would use two different filters on the LT1 engine?

Anyway, it solves the adapter mystery. You need a sandwich adapter that works with 13/16-16 threads.

[Steve91T]

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/6EB08567-7EEE-4B79-BAF3-C6A996BEE840.jpg)

This is what I'm dealing with. I'm screwing my oil filter directly to that. I'm using an oil filter for a 97 LT1. Mobile 1 M-111, for example.

Well, learned something new today. The Mobil 1-111 oil filter is the same one I use on my '89 Z51 Vette. Looked up your vehicle and dang if it isn't the same filter recommended for your Camaro. (My '93 LT1 Vette used a Mobil 1-201 oil filter.) Who would of thought that Chevy would use two different filters on the LT1 engine?

Anyway, it solves the adapter mystery. You need a sandwich adapter that works with 13/16-16 threads.

Ha no kidding. Well I got the correct thread pitch, but it's too small of a diameter. I'll call canton and see if they have the larger one with the correct pitch.

[Steve91T]

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/ctr-22-541
Just spoke with Bob at Canton racing. That's the correct part that I need. I just ordered it, should be here in a couple of days.

[Blainefab]

Replace the block adapter too - that part that has the filter nipple on it. It's pot metal, will crack if you hang anything on it. Makes a big mess.
Canton has a couple different solutions.

[Steve91T]

Replace the block adapter too - that part that has the filter nipple on it. It's pot metal, will crack if you hang anything on it. Makes a big mess.
Canton has a couple different solutions.

Oh that's what you're talking about. I was thinking you were talking about the oil cooler that I've already removed.

I'm not sure if you saw the link I posted just above. That's what Canton told me to buy. I believe it actually does replace the block adapter that you're talking about.

[CamaroRick]

...It will def keep your oil cooler than 300 I take it Canton didnt take notes again lol LT4 Cooler worked for me same as c4 vette late lt1 cooler i think but don't entirely remember. It would make sense if they were. I can imagine they designed a pan in the 90's for a LT1 corvette first.

Just a quick questions about the LT4 cooler, is this an aftermarket piece? The reason I ask is Chevy dropped the KC4 oil cooler option on the C4 when the factory fill changed over to Mobil 1 starting with the 1992 model using the logic that synthetic oil didn't need an oil cooler. Thanks!

Factory piece on the optioned cars. I know it was stock on a 95 1le (mine) I ment to put LT4 vette. I forget the year Its a GM piece I put the part number.

Here is a pic of the top if anyone is wondering
(IMG:http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n608/CamaroRick/20160417_0203311.jpg)

It screws onto that filter adapter. There is a flat O-Ring that seals it to the block

This post has been edited by CamaroRick: Apr 20 2016, 01:04 AM

[Steve91T]

I finally got started installing my oil cooler today. I decided I'm going to mount the oil cooler in the empty space behind the bumper. I bought some sheet metal and made a shroud for it.

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/50793A5D-8BFD-438B-AF22-4A11A1DFC4AD.jpg)

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I'm going to cut the plastic radiator plastic to allow the oil cooler air to exit to the radiator. I figure doing this will allow the oil cooler to get fresh air along with supplying the radiator with even more air, even if that extra air is hot, it's still air.

I used a 3" hole saw to cut the bumper foam for the air intakes. When I pull the bumper for paint, I'll open up the existing holes in the bumper beam to a full 3".

Anyway, I'll get it it plumbed up tomorrow and see what happens.

[Steve91T]

It's done!

My first attempt at making lines. Kind of a PITA, but I'm sure next time will be easier. No leaks so I guess I did something right. I had ordered 10' and man I used every inch. So glad I didn't screw up.

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/F2149BF8-465D-4809-801F-928F31555334.jpg)

So then I ran up to Roush Racing parts and picked up another couple of AN fittings. Holy crap AN fittings are so expensive! Anyway, I got a 90 fitting and it cleared the 02 sensor by a fraction of a millimeter.

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/95C6FAA4-E3B1-424F-AE0B-CB047D37CD71.jpg)

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/99E19EA5-BA72-4961-A22F-A9DB16463661.jpg)

As far as the oil cooler goes. I cut the plastics to all the cooler to recess into the plastics.

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/9DCBC407-8A00-465D-816F-18AD385CB1CC.jpg)

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/7EA5D270-55A1-45C8-807C-EC8EF2BF4712.jpg)

[Steve91T]

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/7CE55892-4CBC-4AE4-9EED-81F55C6A4D12.jpg)

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/BAE5A2A3-C59A-4EBC-BF3D-542C757A9492.jpg)

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/BDBB115B-08AE-4B83-887C-D8C79F64671D.jpg)

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/7626BC88-9F10-4B3A-BE51-05B6DAD3638A.jpg)

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/B758EFCD-8279-4A40-9A61-E6BBA550EA76.jpg)

There's a lot more room between the oil cooler and radiator than it looks.

Anyway, normal driving would be 230-240 degrees. Tonight I took it for a spin and it never got above 200. In traffic it went to 220, but then dropped back down once I got moving again. Can't wait to see how it does on the track in a few weeks.

This post has been edited by Steve91T: Apr 27 2016, 01:45 AM

[Steve91T]

So today I had a chance to take the Camaro to Target (I didn't dare use the bathroom). Oil temps used to be about 230-235 with the warm weather we've been having. Now the oil temps stay at 200. Now this was a 10 minute drive with a few lights and max speed of 45 mph. On the way home, I took the back way and was able to cruise at 50 or so. This time I kept the revs above 3k and did a few WOT runs in 2nd and 3rd. Even in cooler weather I was able to see 250+ on the street. After the cooler, the most I saw was 215. Next week I'll take on the highway and see what kind of cooling I get at 80.

My theory is the air in front of the radiator is relatively high pressure. Not ideal for an oil cooler exit. But because the air is moving through the radiator, it's lower pressure than the air in front of the bumper. So while it's not as efficient of a location as possible, it's still going to see a decent amount of airflow. The other advantage is the radiator will have more air passing through it.

What do you guys think?