[Unbalanced Engin...]

Hey guys and gals,

I just wanted to let everyone know that the 3rd gen rag joint eliminators are now up on the website and ready to ship. Thanks!

Jason S.

[Unbalanced Engin...]

An S10? I suspect that it might well fit.

Keep us posted, and Thanks!

Jason S.

[V6RSR]

An S10? I suspect that it might well fit.

Keep us posted, and Thanks!

Jason S.

Hey Jason, The truck I have is an '89 Chev full size pickup (C/K 1500-2500-& 3500 styles). The shaft out of the Camaro is identical to the shaft in the truck so this disc will work probably on just aout any late model GM. A check around on vehicle rag joint part #'s would confime applications and broaden your market.

Im watching paint dry right now (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/gr_chug.gif) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/popcorn.gif) and am about an hour into it. Thats time spent from when I walked out to the garage to get tools out.Nothing is tough, it just requires patience and the right tools. The patience part is retrieving it out of the engine bay around the brake lines- taking caution not to bend any lines and cause potential leaks- mine was in there tight and I had to gingerly pry a few lines sideways so I could slip it forward and out the bottom inside of the steering box area.

The one tip I can give everyone is the rivets you drill or grind out are step diameter rivets and will only press out in one direction so you need to get the tougher tighter butt end of the rivet (not the head, as in nail head side) without damaging the shaft componants. I did this by just cutting the heads of the rivets off, then simply pulling the rag joint apart and making second cuts at the base or backside of the butt end rivets then taping them through.

Of course as everyone knows- it never is that fast of a job when you take pride in what you do and clean & paint everything - then take the time to watch paint dry. This is realistically about a 3 hour job but about 45 mins in actual disassembly and reassembly combined time. I have also already cut off the large plastic cover since I live in a dry climate and the alum disc is not corrosive like the rag joint- I do not feel I need this protective cover for my application. I have pulled the rubber shaft seal back, extended the shaft back and taped the slide section so paint will not interfer with the colapse, I will grease this section and slip the rubber seal back in place after paint dries to prevent any mositer from entering in there. WIth a V6, I have lots of clearance from the headers so I have lots of room to get my hande in there removing this shaft- Easy job.
Dean
(Thanks Jason- again, it was a needed product)

This post has been edited by V6RSR: Apr 14 2007, 07:18 PM