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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Member Posts: 440 Joined: 23-December 03 From: Nashville, TN Member No.: 1 ![]() |
I am pretty sure there are a number of people here with dedicated cars that have done this. I need to remove my passenger side airbag but have absolutely NO idea how to do it. could anyone point me in the right direction or give me a blow by blow on how it is done. I would REALLY appreciate any info on how I could get this done. Preferably without removing the dash.
Thanks, Boyce -------------------- Resident Open Road Racer My car is painfully slow Boyce Goff Bellevue WA 99 SS Camaro w/ plenty of goodies IP: [ 67.89.235.170 ] Report this post ledfoot2 Posted: Mar 29 2004, 08:51 PM Member Group: Members Posts: 36 Member No.: 219 Joined: 17-February 04 Location: Corpus Christi, Texas Good question, I would like to know as well. -------------------- 1998 Black Trans Am, WS-6, M6, Comp 224/224 581/581 112 cam, "real" ram-air with no wussy baffels in the hood, headers, gutted cats, straight exhaust, BMR STB, LCA and Panhard Rod, Koni SA fronts, Bilstein HD rears, Eibach Pro-Kit Corbeau Forza II's, gutted interior, C5 brake conversion and 305/30/18 Hoosiers.......lots still to do! V-8 class champion '02-'03 South Texas PCA. IP: [ 65.88.144.222 ] Report this post JonV Posted: Mar 30 2004, 04:55 PM Member Group: Members Posts: 23 Member No.: 97 Joined: 4-January 04 Location: Makes 3. I was wondering about losing the drivers bag as well, without setting off all sorts of DTC's etc. IP: [ 24.141.195.30 ] Report this post DryStout Posted: Apr 5 2004, 08:09 PM Member Group: Members Posts: 25 Member No.: 38 Joined: 24-December 03 Location: KS It is a pain in the ass. If you have a Helms it is nine tenths of a pain in the ass. Be prepared to be one step away from removing the dash/instrument cluster from the car and separating the HV/AC ducting from the back of the dash. The airbag/frame width is from the edge of the L side of the dash to just R of the glove box. Since there are many subassemblies jumping through the Helms is a chore, but there are some tips and tricks in the Helms. I do not know how many hrs I spent on the removal. However, I am certain I probably spend a lot more hrs on any one project than most people. I would give yourself at least 2 days to complete so you have recovery time from the contortions and scraped forearms [wear gloves] The airbag support is also there to support the dash. There is a trick to retain a good part of that support on lost on the passenger side of the dash with some ties designed for fixing aftermarket transmission coolers to the radiator [sounds like a kludge, but it worked very well]. Does anyone know if a resistor will keep the airbag light in an off state? It will come on and stay on when the bags are unplugged. IP: [ 68.86.140.155 ] Report this post ledfoot2 Posted: Apr 5 2004, 08:33 PM Member Group: Members Posts: 36 Member No.: 219 Joined: 17-February 04 Location: Corpus Christi, Texas I saw something where a resister would keep the light off. Maybe a 2 ohm? Not sure. -------------------- 1998 Black Trans Am, WS-6, M6, Comp 224/224 581/581 112 cam, "real" ram-air with no wussy baffels in the hood, headers, gutted cats, straight exhaust, BMR STB, LCA and Panhard Rod, Koni SA fronts, Bilstein HD rears, Eibach Pro-Kit Corbeau Forza II's, gutted interior, C5 brake conversion and 305/30/18 Hoosiers.......lots still to do! V-8 class champion '02-'03 South Texas PCA. IP: [ 24.116.180.204 ] Report this post NataSS Inc Posted: Apr 6 2004, 09:47 AM Member Group: Moderators Posts: 175 Member No.: 73 Joined: 30-December 03 Location: yes a 2 ohm resistor will keep the light off. -------------------- Resident Open Road Racer My car is painfully slow Boyce Goff Bellevue WA 99 SS Camaro w/ plenty of goodies IP: [ 67.89.235.170 ] Report this post NataSS Inc Posted: Apr 6 2004, 09:49 AM Member Group: Moderators Posts: 175 Member No.: 73 Joined: 30-December 03 Location: QUOTE (DryStout @ Apr 5 2004, 08:09 PM) It is a pain in the ass. If you have a Helms it is nine tenths of a pain in the ass. Be prepared to be one step away from removing the dash/instrument cluster from the car and separating the HV/AC ducting from the back of the dash. The airbag/frame width is from the edge of the L side of the dash to just R of the glove box. Since there are many subassemblies jumping through the Helms is a chore, but there are some tips and tricks in the Helms. I do not know how many hrs I spent on the removal. However, I am certain I probably spend a lot more hrs on any one project than most people. I would give yourself at least 2 days to complete so you have recovery time from the contortions and scraped forearms [wear gloves] The airbag support is also there to support the dash. There is a trick to retain a good part of that support on lost on the passenger side of the dash with some ties designed for fixing aftermarket transmission coolers to the radiator [sounds like a kludge, but it worked very well]. Does anyone know if a resistor will keep the airbag light in an off state? It will come on and stay on when the bags are unplugged. So it is possible to get it out WITHOUT pulling the dash? -------------------- Resident Open Road Racer My car is painfully slow Boyce Goff Bellevue WA 99 SS Camaro w/ plenty of goodies IP: [ 67.89.235.170 ] Report this post DryStout Posted: Apr 6 2004, 12:08 PM Member Group: Members Posts: 25 Member No.: 38 Joined: 24-December 03 Location: KS QUOTE (NataSS Inc @ Apr 6 2004, 10:49 AM) QUOTE (DryStout @ Apr 5 2004, 08:09 PM) It is a pain in the ass. If you have a Helms it is nine tenths of a pain in the ass. Be prepared to be one step away from removing the dash/instrument cluster from the car and separating the HV/AC ducting from the back of the dash. The airbag/frame width is from the edge of the L side of the dash to just R of the glove box. Since there are many subassemblies jumping through the Helms is a chore, but there are some tips and tricks in the Helms. I do not know how many hrs I spent on the removal. However, I am certain I probably spend a lot more hrs on any one project than most people. I would give yourself at least 2 days to complete so you have recovery time from the contortions and scraped forearms [wear gloves] The airbag support is also there to support the dash. There is a trick to retain a good part of that support on lost on the passenger side of the dash with some ties designed for fixing aftermarket transmission coolers to the radiator [sounds like a kludge, but it worked very well]. Does anyone know if a resistor will keep the airbag light in an off state? It will come on and stay on when the bags are unplugged. So it is possible to get it out WITHOUT pulling the dash? It sure is. You have to get every thing loose, unbolt the steering wheel supports, etc BTW note the URL for this thread: http://mtfba.org/rrforum/index.php?&act=Po...=1&t=871&p=9814 It is not FRRAX.com - bad news - Note if you go to the frrax site, you will NOT see this thread! |
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Member ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 223 Joined: 16-January 04 From: Chicago suburbs Member No.: 131 ![]() |
Mike is right. Dash removal isn't too bad, and each time you put it back in you will probably find yourself using 10 fewer screws each time... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
Here's the order I do it in... takes about 30-45 min the first time as you find every last little screw: --A-pillar panels --Top dash panel by windshield (use a screwdriver, pop gently) --Instrument and radio bezels --Instrument cluster --Check the fuse block and make sure it won't bind against the dash housing --HVAC controls --Radio --Glovebox --Lower dash panels (below steering wheel, by pedals, and below glovebox) --Kick panels --Free any necessary solenoids / sensors from their mounting points (this is the hardest step the first time through) --Every top screw on dash / HVAC venting --Every bottom screw on dash / HVAC venting To pull the dash itself out, treat the dash, passenger airbag, and the HVAC venting as one monolithic unit. I usually sit in the passenger seat with one hand in the hole for the radio and another inside the glove box area and gently wiggle the assembly forward. The hardest part is lifting the assembly around the steering wheel... but once you're over that hurdle you're home free. You'll be left with something that looks like this. (IMG:http://web.ics.purdue.edu/~promba/albums/Z28/SpringBreak_2004/dash_from_trunk.jpg) I'll get a cage and seats in that car someday... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) |
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