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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 902 Joined: 27-January 04 From: Magnolia, Tx. Member No.: 160 ![]() |
Now that things are starting to settle down here in our new home, we broke ground on the GarageMahal.
Any suggestions/tips from those that know much more than I ever will about electricity and other shop essentials? Keep it simple, essential and wonderland arent the same (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool.gif) Specifically I'm looking for advice on # of circuits and size, as well as floor and wall paint/coating/covering options. (IMG:http://www.camaromustangchallenge.com/images/Other/GarageDay1.jpg) |
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www.skulte.com ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 345 Joined: 26-October 04 From: W. Hartford, CT Member No.: 515 ![]() |
How large of a power feed will you have? I'd expect a 20 spot 100A breaker box would be fine. I like to have the large equipment on their own 240V circuits, so each will tie up two breaker spots. If you're saving $ on copper wire (it's expensive, and long runs can add up!), you can put equipment not likely to be used at the same time together, like a lathe, mill, and welder. The inrush current on large motors is what will usually pop a breaker, and the largest motor will probably be on the air compressor. I wired all my 120V stuff on 12g Romex, which is good for 20 amps, I believe (it's been a while). The larger equipment got wires large enough to handle the breaker size (I think it was 10g for the 30A real 2hp air compressor motor). I can get details if needed. For receptacles, you'll want a GFCI receptacle as the first one in the circuit, and the following will be protected by that one (much less expensive than GFCI breakers). If shop equipment won't be moved, you can save the $ of receptacles and hard wire them. I'm not sure at when a cutoff switch is necessary, and when you can use the breaker as one. I have the NEC code book used for our town, and did everything per code (and promptly forgot it!). Sounds like MarkA does this more often...
My shop breaker box: 60Amp 2 pole main breaker, 8 ga 3 wire + ground feed (need to double check). 1 - Shop Fluorescents 3 - 120V 20A Receptacles A Circuit - 4 receptacles 5 - 120V 20A Receptacles B Circuit - 4 receptacles 7 - 120V 20A Receptacles C circuit - 4 gang box for drill press, computer, TV, & stereo 7 & 9 - 240V baseboard heater (in the kitchen - I had to steal that circuit on the main house breaker panel which was full, to get power to the garage sub panel) 2 & 4 - Air Compressor 6 & 8 - Welder/Lathe (both have receptacles - I switch plugs when either is needed) I moved in about 16 months ago, and the 24x22 2 car garage had a whole 2 outlets. My first project was to add better lighting, and a ton of outlets. It's very convenient having receptacles in the middle and corner of every wall (every 10 feet, and every 6 feet at the workbench). Get lots of bright light. I used 3 high output cold weather 8' 2 tube fluorescent hanging fixtures (110W tubes), and would like another one over the hood area of the car's bay. You might want a ceiling fan or four in the garage as well... If you ever plan on powdercoating, leave a circuit for a junked kitchen oven. Write down a list of your current and future equipment, find out the current draw (most instruction manuals say what size breaker is required), and run the wire gauge needed for that current. Are you drywalling right away? If not, don't bother running $500 of copper wiring that may not be used for 5 years... Any plans for heat? Leave a breaker open for the furnace. I have a bare concrete floor, but wanted to epoxy. I moved in all my equipment in the winter, and now it's too much work to bother. Instead, I have raised rubber tiles in the car work area, and work mats in front of the bench, drill press, and lathe. Use light colored paint - it reflects the light better. I'm a big fan of having everything out of sight (you wouldn't know it, if you saw the garage right now!), and went nuts on cabinets under the workbench, and around the garage. The hanging Ikea cabinets with cheap white doors have been great - the bottom is about 65" off the ground, and it's along the wall in the car bay. I can walk by it, since my shoulders clear, not be forced to bend around them, and still see inside (I'm 6'3). |
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