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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 902 Joined: 27-January 04 From: Magnolia, Tx. Member No.: 160 ![]() |
Now that things are starting to settle down here in our new home, we broke ground on the GarageMahal.
Any suggestions/tips from those that know much more than I ever will about electricity and other shop essentials? Keep it simple, essential and wonderland arent the same (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool.gif) Specifically I'm looking for advice on # of circuits and size, as well as floor and wall paint/coating/covering options. (IMG:http://www.camaromustangchallenge.com/images/Other/GarageDay1.jpg) |
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#2
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 902 Joined: 27-January 04 From: Magnolia, Tx. Member No.: 160 ![]() |
Wow, a ton of excellent advice! I figured there might be a bit of energy around this (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/burnout.gif) I think I have enough info to go on regarding electrical requirements, awesome and thanks. Ditto on insulation concerns. I plan on fully insulating the bldg.
Follow ups: 1) flooring...epoxy coating sounds like a ginormous PITA to do, plus waiting for two months for curing/drying after the thing is done so I can then spend four days acid dipping/painting waiting for it to dry before I move in sounds unlikely. Am I being too negative? Do those rubber floor tiles/roll out sheets work with jack stands etc? That sounds easy...though probably fall under the category of "nice to have/too expensive". 2) The bathroom stays. I was planning on a garage style sink and a toilet in there. I might install some pea gravel outside in case Mitch comes over though. I'd want him to feel comfortable. 3) The whole building is behind a fence with the German Shepherd in the picture so I'm not really worried about intruders...but I think I'll let price drive the decision on windows. All other things being equal I think I'd rather have a lift than a bunch of windows, no? 4) Awesome comment on the CAT5 and phone...hadnt even considered that!! wow...that would've sucked! 5) The upstairs will be partially finished as a guest house (big influence on convincing the wife here!). I was considering setting up ac/heat with a split to do either the bottom or the top. This way I could cool it, but not spend as much on equipment. It would mean one or the other though. Thoughts? 6) Anyone have thoughts for the walls other than normal drywall? 7) I've heard normal copper plumbing with soldered fittings is ok for air use...is this true? Any better ideas? |
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#3
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,936 Joined: 26-September 05 From: Youngstown, OH Member No.: 896 ![]() |
Howdy,
1) flooring...epoxy coating sounds like a ginormous PITA to do, plus waiting for two months for curing/drying after the thing is done so I can then spend four days acid dipping/painting waiting for it to dry before I move in sounds unlikely. Am I being too negative? Do those rubber floor tiles/roll out sheets work with jack stands etc? That sounds easy...though probably fall under the category of "nice to have/too expensive". I've not done my floor yet, but... I lived with an uncoated floor in my old shop and got pretty sick of the constant concrete dust that came up. I'd at least use a sealer on it. QUOTE 3) The whole building is behind a fence with the German Shepherd in the picture so I'm not really worried about intruders...but I think I'll let price drive the decision on windows. All other things being equal I think I'd rather have a lift than a bunch of windows, no? I think that's the wrong question... I think the right question is "Will I hate myself in two years because I didn't spend $500 on some windows?" Doing windows now is no big deal. Adding them later will be a PITA. QUOTE 5) The upstairs will be partially finished as a guest house (big influence on convincing the wife here!). I was considering setting up ac/heat with a split to do either the bottom or the top. This way I could cool it, but not spend as much on equipment. It would mean one or the other though. Thoughts? For the occasional guest areas, I'd do a window A/C unit and electric space heater. They're pretty cheap and the inefficency won't matter if its an occasional use thing. You're in Texas, right? So it doesn't get particularly cold but you'd definitely want A/C, right? QUOTE 6) Anyone have thoughts for the walls other than normal drywall? I used OSB (wafer board) in my old shop on the premise that I'd be able to drive a screw/nail anywhere I wanted. In practice, I mounted stuff to the studs anyway. With the new shop I used drywall instead, but a part of that decision was because it was attached to the house and I wanted fire protection. Without needing fire protection, I'd do whatever was cheaper. QUOTE 7) I've heard normal copper plumbing with soldered fittings is ok for air use...is this true? Any better ideas? Sure, it'll work. But if copper is as expensive there as it is here, I'd just use good old fashioned iron pipe. You can get cutting / threading equipment pretty cheap at Harbor Freight and its really not all that hard to do. The copper / sweated joints will be easier to install, but I wouldn't pay money for it. Folks also use plastic... PVC maybe? I dunno. I've heard concerns about that stuff getting brittle with age, but don't have any real experience / data with it. Another electrical thing... If you're going to have your trailer inside, put in a dedicated trailer outlet... For future-proofness get one of the ones designed for rv hookups that provide receptacles for 220 and 110 (in 30A and regular 20A connectors). Something like what they show at: http://www.rvpoweroutlet.com/ Of course, at $130, I'd be tempted to put together my own since you don't care about having breakers, a lid, etc. Either way though, having power for the trailer will let you power up the lights & use the trailer outlets. Mark |
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