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#1
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 902 Joined: 27-January 04 From: Magnolia, Tx. Member No.: 160 ![]() |
Now that things are starting to settle down here in our new home, we broke ground on the GarageMahal.
Any suggestions/tips from those that know much more than I ever will about electricity and other shop essentials? Keep it simple, essential and wonderland arent the same (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool.gif) Specifically I'm looking for advice on # of circuits and size, as well as floor and wall paint/coating/covering options. (IMG:http://www.camaromustangchallenge.com/images/Other/GarageDay1.jpg) |
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#2
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www.skulte.com ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 345 Joined: 26-October 04 From: W. Hartford, CT Member No.: 515 ![]() |
The price of copper has gone through the roof, whether you use it for wiring, and build in extra current capacity, or for air compressor lines. My 60A 12 circuit sub panel is protected by a 60A breaker at the main, and also at the sub (i.e. works as the master disconnect switch, needed for more than 8 circuits, I believe). It's fed by 6-3 cable (three six gauge conductors and a ground). My 240V compressor and welder circuits have a 30A breaker, and I think it's 10 gauge Romex. Is it gage, or gauge, for wires (same for sheet metal?)? Having a 50A instead of a 30A breaker forces you to run 6g instead of 10g wire, which can quite a bit more expensive (Mark or Andy can probably give a ballpark cost per foot), especially if the run goes to the other side of the shop. The 30A breaker & magnetic starter for the 5hp compressor motor (real 5 hp, not "peak", about 80 lbs alone, BelAire 318V compressor) is marginal (2hp motors in lathes, bridgeports, and saws no sweat), and dims the whole house for a split second when it kicks in (100A main service), but I've never had a problem with tripping the breakers. I checked the Rotary Lift specs, and most of their lifts only need a 20A 208-230V circuit (http://www.rotarylift.com/Service_and_Support/Frequently_Asked_Questions/FAQPages/Electrical%20Requirements.pdf). A 200 Amp TIG needs a 30A breaker, but if you're planning on getting something larger, maybe a 50A circuit makes sense. A 50A for the future powdercoating oven (gotten free from Craigslist of course!) is a smart idea. Consider where your big equipment will be, and place the circuit breaker panel nearby to cut down on how much wire needs to be run. I'd keep it near a door as well.
I ran two RG6 coax for the TV (one of which is connected to the DVR's coax output in the living room, to watch old races), and two Cat5 cables for phone and networking. If it's going to be the garage majal, you'll want in-wall speakers, so run the wiring for that too. Two less things that will be sitting on a shelf or cabinets... Before they pour concrete, have a drain so you can wash the vehicles inside, especially in the winter. I like the skylight idea, but your in-law apartment on the 2nd floor kills that. Consider building the walls with staggered 2x4's to make it more soundproof. Make sure the drywall is sealed well, so workshop smells don't permeate the apartment above. If you're getting a heater, think about having a ducted outdoor air inlet for the burner, so you don't have to restrict yourself when dealing with flammable vapors. Have two I beams that run parallel along the shop over the car bay, with another cross beam on rollers, and a trolley chain hoist. Very convenient lift for anything, and doesn't require the storage space of an engine crane. Try to have a clear span without support poles if you can (engineered wood laminate beams, I beams, etc...). A garage door on the backside so you can drive through (thank you, come again) if necessary. The office/clean room idea is good. Perfect for engine/transmission rebuilding where you don't want any dust. Have a dirty room too, for grinding, sandblast, & chopsaw. This will keep the shop much less dusty, and keep the nice chopsaw smell out of everything else. Exhaust hose so you can run the car inside w/ doors closed if necessary. Several large fire extinguishers. Hose reel for air lines and cord reel for electrical, near the workbench and car area. I'm sure I can think of more ways to spend your money. I love planning garages! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) This post has been edited by z28tt: May 11 2007, 01:41 PM |
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#3
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 255 Joined: 3-June 04 Member No.: 355 ![]() |
Some more ideas:
Do a 240V central vac rather than a shop vac. Then you can mount it high on the wall and save some floor space. A 240V has about 4 times the power of any portable vac. If you do a plasma cutter, put a 240V plug near the door. My plasma cutter makes an incredible amount of metal dust, so I like to use it outside. I took a HEPA filter from a thrift store, and used flexible heater hose to duct it outside via a dryer vent. Then I can bring the hose close to what I'm welding, or drying, to suck the fumes outside. If I were doing the garage from scratch, I would put in a heated floor. Working on cars you wind up laying on the floor alot. I got this idea from seeing some rich folks driveways: Inset rows of lights into the floor. The huge plastic sink gets alot of use. I put a slot in my workbench. I can put a trash can under the slot, and it makes sawing really easy. A metal topped table is nice for working on oily stuff. Oil will destroy particle board. Some day I would like to wire into a garage door safety beam, and put an LED where I can see it, so I can see when the car has pulled in just far enough to clear the door. This would leave the maximum amount of room at the front of the car for working. |
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