[Shortcutsleeping]

Moroso 3 quart accumulator. I bought it new a few years back and never used it (I went dry sump). I'm not even sure if it has been out of the plastic bag. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif)

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisp...p?catcode=13600

The middle picture. Has the valve on one end, the gauge on the other.

Also the correct mounting brackets, pn 23920 (same link, just scroll down).

INCLUDES PIMPY BLUE ANODIZING OF THE BRACKETS AT ABSOLUTELY NO ADDITIONAL COST TO YOU!!!

New accumulator (jegs) = 189.99
New brackets (jegs) = 26.99

New total = 216.98
+ shipping
___________________
total (new) = 1 hojillian dollars..

but...

if you ACT NOW...I'm looking for $150 for BOTH parts (plus shipping)...

STOP READING AND START ACTING!!!!

(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/gr_eek2.gif)



costas (at) witchdoctormotorsports (dot) com


Costas
cars and such...

[trackbird]

And I'm selling the pressure switch to convert your electric accumulator valve to the 30 psi "Race" version that Canton sells. If you need those parts, let me know.

Nape. I'd probably use both. I'm using a 3 quart Canton version and I can still turn on my 30 (or less) psi oil warning light on street tires. I'm not sure the pan will fix it all on its own either. It might, but it's cheap insurance and you already have it.

[rmackintosh]

And I'm selling the pressure switch to convert your electric accumulator valve to the 30 psi "Race" version that Canton sells. If you need those parts, let me know.

Nape. I'd probably use both. I'm using a 3 quart Canton version and I can still turn on my 30 (or less) psi oil warning light on street tires. I'm not sure the pan will fix it all on its own either. It might, but it's cheap insurance and you already have it.

I just got a Moroso Accumulator for Xmas. I need a valve for it as it just comes with the standard one. Will the Canton stuff work on a Moroso?

If so, what is the difference between the "race" valve and the regular?

Thanks,

Randy

[trackbird]

And I'm selling the pressure switch to convert your electric accumulator valve to the 30 psi "Race" version that Canton sells. If you need those parts, let me know.

Nape. I'd probably use both. I'm using a 3 quart Canton version and I can still turn on my 30 (or less) psi oil warning light on street tires. I'm not sure the pan will fix it all on its own either. It might, but it's cheap insurance and you already have it.

I just got a Moroso Accumulator for Xmas. I need a valve for it as it just comes with the standard one. Will the Canton stuff work on a Moroso?

If so, what is the difference between the "race" valve and the regular?

Thanks,

Randy

As I remember, my accumulator is 1/2 NPT on the threads. I think the Moroso is as well.

The "race" valve from Canton will not let the sump fill if oil pressure is under 30psi. It seems to want to direct that oil to the engine. I bought the race version to see if the valve was any different, it's not. So, I installed the electric valve, but didn't use the pressure switch and hardware. I just put a switch on mine that is hot when the key is hot and I have a manual override to shut it off (I've been known to empty the sump into the pan and idle the engine to heat the oil, then open the sump back up, etc).

And I guess I have the 20-25 psi switch.

http://www.accusump.com/acc_products/acc_valves.html

I have what is basically the 24-271k (I think I used some of the wire and the switch). Canton sells the kit for $80.00 to go with your valve. I'd like to see $60-ish shipped (OBO).

[rmackintosh]

And I'm selling the pressure switch to convert your electric accumulator valve to the 30 psi "Race" version that Canton sells. If you need those parts, let me know.

Nape. I'd probably use both. I'm using a 3 quart Canton version and I can still turn on my 30 (or less) psi oil warning light on street tires. I'm not sure the pan will fix it all on its own either. It might, but it's cheap insurance and you already have it.

I just got a Moroso Accumulator for Xmas. I need a valve for it as it just comes with the standard one. Will the Canton stuff work on a Moroso?

If so, what is the difference between the "race" valve and the regular?

Thanks,

Randy

As I remember, my accumulator is 1/2 NPT on the threads. I think the Moroso is as well.

The "race" valve from Canton will not let the sump fill if oil pressure is under 30psi. It seems to want to direct that oil to the engine. I bought the race version to see if the valve was any different, it's not. So, I installed the electric valve, but didn't use the pressure switch and hardware. I just put a switch on mine that is hot when the key is hot and I have a manual override to shut it off (I've been known to empty the sump into the pan and idle the engine to heat the oil, then open the sump back up, etc).

And I guess I have the 20-25 psi switch.

http://www.accusump.com/acc_products/acc_valves.html

I have what is basically the 24-271k (I think I used some of the wire and the switch). Canton sells the kit for $80.00 to go with your valve. I'd like to see $60-ish shipped (OBO).

I guess I am not too clear on how the sumps work. With the manual valve it is either on or off correct? I thought that the electric valve was the same, just opened via a electric switch.

However, now you are bringing pressure switches into it. Does that mean that the sump will not activate UNTIL the pressure is lower than what the switch is set at?

I thought you just revved the engine on shut down to peak oil pressure thereby charging the sump and then shut the valve. Then, on operation, the sump would attempt to maintain that pressure. Do I have it wrong?

Thanks,

Randy

[trackbird]

I guess I am not too clear on how the sumps work. With the manual valve it is either on or off correct? I thought that the electric valve was the same, just opened via a electric switch.

However, now you are bringing pressure switches into it. Does that mean that the sump will not activate UNTIL the pressure is lower than what the switch is set at?

I thought you just revved the engine on shut down to peak oil pressure thereby charging the sump and then shut the valve. Then, on operation, the sump would attempt to maintain that pressure. Do I have it wrong?

Thanks,

Randy

You are suggesting exactly what I do (though I don't rev the crap out of it, I may or may not pull the idle up to 2,500 rpm for a few seconds and then shut the valve).

The switch shuts the valve below 25 psi to the engine will get any oil from the pump. However, I feel that this is a stupid idea because you now have a closed sump with 25 psi of oil in it. If the engine has less, then let it stay open. This is why I have the valve as "extra". I didn't use it. I'm also running an M55HV oil pump (standard SBC) and I have enough volume and pressure to fill it and feed the engine as soon as oil becomes available. I think I was seeing 19 psi on the autometer at Nashville when on track (on street tires).

This could work really well with a pair of valves and some check balls. Let it run wide open until empty, but hold the refil until pressure comes up. How many million dollars in plumbing do you think we could tie up in this? (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)