[vanwyk4257]

Well, I received the blessing from my wife last weekend to go ahead and build a garage out back (it might have helped that I have two F-bodies in the garage at the moment and she's parking outside (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif) ) so I am trying to work out the details on design, size, layout et al.

I am thinking of doing a 24x30 with 12'foot walls to allow me enough height to install a 2 or 4-post lift down the road.

My thought is to put a 16x8 overhead door off to one side of the 30ft. wall which will face the house and then have a 3ft. steel service/entry door as well.

I want to have room to park two cars inside and still have a decent workshop space for working on engines, etc.

I do plan to insulate the entire building and will be running natural gas and electricity (110V only most likely) to it. Heat will be from a 90%+ efficiency furnace, i.e., forced air (my dad's in the business so I can get one cheap).
I also plan to finish the interior walls and ceiling with OSB as opposed to drywall just because it will be easier to live with, i.e., I can bang into it with tools, parts etc. without doing any real damage, and if I do manage to punch a hole in a sheet it will be easier to replace. Finally, I am anticipating putting a loft area in the trusses for storage with a pull-down ladder.

I am looking or any input with regard to the size (I know you can never build too large) based on the aforementioned parameters, will it be large enough?

Also, I would welcome any advice or input with regard to layout etc.

Thanks in advance for the input guys!

[marka]

Howdy,

Heater sizing, from McMaster:

Heat Output Required— A heater should be large enough to replace the heat lost through the floor, walls, and ceiling of the space you are trying to heat. The amount of heat lost depends on how well an area is sealed and insulated. Follow these steps to estimate your heat requirement:
Step 1: Determine the surface area of your floor, walls, and ceiling in square feet:
(2 x length x width)+(2 x length x height)+(2 x width x height)
Step 2: Estimate your heat loss factor by choosing the description that best fits your building:
Very well sealed and insulated = .25
Well sealed, but not insulated = .75
Not well sealed or insulated = 1.25
Step 3: Decide how much you want the temperature to rise in ° F:
If you don't currently have interior heat this would be the difference between the outside temperature and your desired temperature. If adding to existing heat this would be the difference between your current temperature and your desired temperature.
Step 4: Multiply the results from steps 1-3 for your estimated Btu/hr. requirement. You may need to consider more than one heater to meet your total requirement.
Step 5: If you are sizing an electric heater by watts, multiply the result in Step 4 by .293.
For Example— Your 20-ft. x 20-ft. area has a 12-ft. ceiling and is well sealed and insulated. Your current heat source can only maintain 50° F, yet you want your area to be 65° F.
Step 1: Your surface area is: (2 x 20 x 20)+(2 x 20 x 12)+(2 x 20 x 12) = 1760 sq. ft.
Step 2: Your heat loss factor is .25 since your room is well sealed and insulated.
Step 3: You need a 15° F temperature rise (the difference between current 50° F temperature and desired 65° F temperature).
Step 4: Multiplying the results of steps 1-3 determines your heat required: 1760 x .25 x 15 = 6600 Btu/Hr.
Note: Your result in step 4 is the minimum requirement to reach your desired temperature. If this result is between two heater sizes, you should select the larger size.

I've yet to see a heat loss factor from anyone that spec'd "insulated, but not sealed as well as a house"... Anyone have any ideas there? My garage has an insulated door with the rubber sealing strips on the edges & the doors & windows are tight... Does that mean I can use .25 for heat loss?

Mark