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> Need input on garage layout
vanwyk4257
post Mar 21 2008, 03:37 PM
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Well, I received the blessing from my wife last weekend to go ahead and build a garage out back (it might have helped that I have two F-bodies in the garage at the moment and she's parking outside (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif) ) so I am trying to work out the details on design, size, layout et al.

I am thinking of doing a 24x30 with 12'foot walls to allow me enough height to install a 2 or 4-post lift down the road.

My thought is to put a 16x8 overhead door off to one side of the 30ft. wall which will face the house and then have a 3ft. steel service/entry door as well.

I want to have room to park two cars inside and still have a decent workshop space for working on engines, etc.

I do plan to insulate the entire building and will be running natural gas and electricity (110V only most likely) to it. Heat will be from a 90%+ efficiency furnace, i.e., forced air (my dad's in the business so I can get one cheap).
I also plan to finish the interior walls and ceiling with OSB as opposed to drywall just because it will be easier to live with, i.e., I can bang into it with tools, parts etc. without doing any real damage, and if I do manage to punch a hole in a sheet it will be easier to replace. Finally, I am anticipating putting a loft area in the trusses for storage with a pull-down ladder.

I am looking or any input with regard to the size (I know you can never build too large) based on the aforementioned parameters, will it be large enough?

Also, I would welcome any advice or input with regard to layout etc.

Thanks in advance for the input guys!
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z28tt
post Mar 28 2008, 01:48 PM
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Ditto on the 220V. Your future air compressor, welder, plasma, and lift will require it. It's not any more expensive to run 220V vs 110, and gives you extra capacity down the road. I personally wouldn't install an extra meter, but our utility charges a "per meter" fee of $30/mo anyways. Might as well only pay that once for the house. That being said, install a 100A breaker in your main panel, and run the 4 gage (I forget exactly) wire to a sub panel in the garage. That minimizes your wiring runs, and copper is expensive these days.

Lots of outlets everwhere along walls, between doors, junction boxes in ceilings for lights & fans, etc.

Radiant floor heating would be a dream (a good friend is building his 40x40 shop right now in New Hampshire, and has it!). Drawback is if you're cheap and don't plan on keeping the garage heated at 50 full time through the cold MI winters. Radiant floor heating takes a long time to heat up the shop, so it's not as good for an on-demand system (but great for the baseline cooler temp, so then you just need to raise it another 10-15 degrees to be comfortable).

I personally would ratehr have less windows - less for neighbors to look into. Use transom windows above the garage doors, and lots of flourescent lighting inside. Generally, my doors are closed from Nov through March until it warms up. Less windows = more wall space for storage, and figure $500/window too.

Think of where the doors will face. It's nice not having the door face the street where anyone driving by sees what goodies you have.

Run a few 2" PVC condiuts in the foundation as wire/plumbing chases for the future - TV, warm water, etc... I wish I had a hose spigot with warm water to make washing the cars in winter easier.

Have a separate room for messy stuff like chop saws, cleaning parts, spray painting, grinding, etc.

Slop sink/bathroom would be nice. It's a pain to go back inside the house, take off the shoes, try not to get the doorknobs greasy, just because you've had 3 cups of coffee and need room for more! Minifridge is a must.

Epoxy the floors before you move in. If the foundation is poured, I think you can wait 30 days before painting. Put a vapor barrier under the concrete as well.

I like having the 2 garage doors instead of one, since it spills less heat if it needs to open in the winter. Have a normal 36"x80" person door as well, leading to the back yard, basement, or patio.

It's nice to have room to put the trailer in there if you're loading up for a race. I can *barely* fit it through my 9' wide doors if I take off the fenders, and even still the tongue is 2' past the garage door.
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vanwyk4257   Need input on garage layout   Mar 21 2008, 03:37 PM
zlexiss   Get a 220v feed if possible. Air compressors, wel...   Mar 21 2008, 08:50 PM
cccbock   QUOTE (zlexiss @ Mar 21 2008, 04:50 PM) G...   Mar 21 2008, 09:27 PM
vanwyk4257   Thanks for the input guys. I'll check into 22...   Mar 21 2008, 10:02 PM
mitchntx   Opinions ... we all have a different one. I opted...   Mar 21 2008, 10:11 PM
slowTA   If I ever get the opportunity to build my own gara...   Mar 21 2008, 10:21 PM
Rob Hood   Consider trailer movement and parking when decidin...   Mar 22 2008, 01:15 AM
gopanoz   A working kitchen sink in the garage has been supe...   Mar 22 2008, 01:27 AM
Mericet   Somewhere in the planning try and add a separate (...   Mar 22 2008, 01:56 AM
vanwyk4257   Wow, lots of good ideas, thanks guys! I can t...   Mar 22 2008, 02:01 AM
mitchntx   QUOTE (vanwyk4257 @ Mar 21 2008, 09:01 PM...   Mar 22 2008, 03:31 AM
vanwyk4257   QUOTE (mitchntx @ Mar 21 2008, 11:31 PM) ...   Mar 22 2008, 03:39 AM
mitchntx   RE: Need input on garage layout   Mar 22 2008, 04:18 AM
Eugenio_SS   since there was mention of garage door opening, th...   Mar 22 2008, 06:26 AM
v7guy   I can say that a sink in the garage to clean up be...   Mar 23 2008, 09:51 AM
cccbock   QUOTE (v7guy @ Mar 23 2008, 05:51 AM) I c...   Mar 23 2008, 03:11 PM
1qwikbird   QUOTE (cccbock @ Mar 23 2008, 11:11 AM) Q...   Mar 23 2008, 11:13 PM
1qwikbird   Having helped a buddy build his shop (28x32 with 1...   Mar 23 2008, 01:52 PM
T.O.Dillinder   24 x 30 is the size of my garage. It is also 2 sto...   Mar 25 2008, 04:22 AM
vanwyk4257   QUOTE (T.O.Dillinder @ Mar 25 2008, 12:22...   Mar 25 2008, 11:48 AM
mitchntx   QUOTE (vanwyk4257 @ Mar 25 2008, 06:48 AM...   Mar 25 2008, 12:53 PM
vanwyk4257   QUOTE (mitchntx @ Mar 25 2008, 08:53 AM) ...   Mar 25 2008, 02:13 PM
rmackintosh   QUOTE (vanwyk4257 @ Mar 25 2008, 09:13 AM...   Mar 25 2008, 02:57 PM
mitchntx   QUOTE (vanwyk4257 @ Mar 25 2008, 09:13 AM...   Mar 25 2008, 03:08 PM
marka   Howdy, QUOTE (vanwyk4257 @ Mar 25 2008, 07...   Mar 25 2008, 04:03 PM
00 SS   I will be building a new shop one of these days as...   Mar 25 2008, 03:33 PM
vanwyk4257   24ft. is the depth. I could potentially go a bit ...   Mar 25 2008, 08:19 PM
00 SS   Gas heat is, as you state, is about 90% efficient ...   Mar 25 2008, 11:29 PM
Wayno   Mount your heater up near the ceiling so that it d...   Mar 26 2008, 06:47 AM
vanwyk4257   QUOTE (Wayno @ Mar 26 2008, 02:47 AM) Mou...   Mar 26 2008, 01:36 PM
marka   Howdy, Common gas garage heater: http://hot-dawg....   Mar 26 2008, 03:43 PM
marka   Howdy, Heater sizing, from McMaster: QUOTE Heat O...   Mar 26 2008, 03:52 PM
00 SS   The formula is simple: BTUH = U x A x delta T U=...   Mar 26 2008, 04:09 PM
vanwyk4257   Wow, somebody stayed at a Holiday Inn last night...   Mar 26 2008, 06:14 PM
00 SS   Sorry, when you are an engineer, it's hard to ...   Mar 26 2008, 06:55 PM
vanwyk4257   Many of my friends are engineers, so I've lear...   Mar 26 2008, 09:38 PM
rushman   Do the 220v for sure. Also, if you are burying th...   Mar 26 2008, 09:54 PM
z28tt   Ditto on the 220V. Your future air compressor, wel...   Mar 28 2008, 01:48 PM
00 Trans Ram   Someone on here mentioned putting an A/C unit in a...   Mar 28 2008, 08:07 PM
rushman   QUOTE (00 Trans Ram @ Mar 28 2008, 02:07 ...   Mar 30 2008, 01:18 PM
T.O.Dillinder   Insulation is the key. Mine is insulated better th...   Apr 2 2008, 04:50 PM
vanwyk4257   Well, unfortunately after adding up the expense of...   Apr 2 2008, 04:58 PM
mitchntx   Build it right the first time. Compromises suck .....   Apr 3 2008, 03:04 AM
vanwyk4257   QUOTE (mitchntx @ Apr 2 2008, 11:04 PM) B...   Apr 3 2008, 03:52 AM
DavidDymaxion   Things I liked in my garage: I left out one cabin...   Apr 9 2008, 08:13 PM

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