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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
The Blaine Fab hub-centric wheel spacer is now available in 5/16" and 1/2" thicknesses along with the other sizes. All are fabricated from solid 6061 T6 aluminum, and fit snug to the hub.
Most sizes are in stock for immediate delivery. pricing: 1/16" $40/pr 1/8" $40/pr 3/16" $45/pr 1/4" $50/pr 5/16" $55/pr 3/8" $60/pr 1/2" $75/pr 3/4" $135/pr (includes lightening holes) Add $16 per order for insured USPS shipping to the lower 48, and 8.75% CA sales tax for deliveries to a CA address, PayPal to ablaine (at) cruzio (dot) com Must not be used with OEM wheel studs - a stud upgrade is required to use the spacers. I also have stock of ARP wheel studs and Gorilla short bulge lugnuts. I use 6061 Aluminum, cut the hub hole to be a snug fit to the hub, so fronts or LS1 rears won't go on a LT1 rear, and conversely, LT1 rears will be about .020" large on the front or on a LS1 rear (or C4/C5). Some of the aftermarket axles for the LT1 have LS1 sized hubs so best to measure your axle hubs before ordering spacers. (IMG:http://www.skyhighway.com/~bfpix2/IMG_0562-1.JPG) Regards, Alan Blaine Blaine Fabrication 831 427-3296 edit: add 3/4", update USPS shipping edit: add 1/2", update USPS shipping edit: update USPS shipping edit: update shipping, sales tax edit: update sales tax This post has been edited by Blainefab: Feb 6 2014, 07:16 AM |
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Race Driver ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 382 Joined: 14-February 04 From: SoCal Member No.: 205 ![]() |
Good deal Alan, I'll get the hub flange DIA and let you know.
FWIW the wheels I have had to be slightly clearanced to fit on the back. And yes, I need these to center the rotor in the hub. When I put the new (for me) rear end on, the inside of the rotor rubbed on the caliper carrier. 5 washers got me through the WS weekend, but I want something more secure. I think I want 3/16, or maybe 1/4 - I won't know until next weekend though. I'll give you a call/e-mail after we get the car onto the lift @ Nick's. |
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
Good deal Alan, I'll get the hub flange DIA and let you know. FWIW the wheels I have had to be slightly clearanced to fit on the back. And yes, I need these to center the rotor in the hub. When I put the new (for me) rear end on, the inside of the rotor rubbed on the caliper carrier. 5 washers got me through the WS weekend, but I want something more secure. I think I want 3/16, or maybe 1/4 - I won't know until next weekend though. I'll give you a call/e-mail after we get the car onto the lift @ Nick's. I measured LT1 vs LS1, and the base of the axle hub at the flange is the same diameter for both - The first 1/4" there centers the rotor. It's outboard of that where the LS1 flange is smaller in diameter. Sooo... you'll be OK with 1/4" thick, LT1 ID, as long as you stick with the LT1 axles. With LS1 axles I wouldn't go more than 1/8" thick inside so that the rotor stays indexed on the hub, and shim the caliper if more is needed. I'll make them 1/4" smaller in OD to be sure they fit the inside of the rotor - I've seen a variety of profiles on the machining of that surface. Take a close look at the axle flanges while you're in there - look for any cracks like these: http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?sho...t=0&start=0 |
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