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Nothing says 'I love you.' like a box of Hydroshoks ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Moderators Posts: 5,284 Joined: 23-December 03 From: Granbury, TX Member No.: 4 ![]() |
IN an effort to lose weight off the race car, I want to cut the SFCs off. However, I use them to jack up the car.
After seeing several "pro" teams use a receiver/stab setup off the roll cage, I began fabricating this kind of rig. I used 1" square tubing as the receiver and gusseted the hell out of it to keep deflection to a minimum. I have some 3/4" solid bar stock I was using as the stab. After welding the receiver portion to the cage and mocking up the stab with plenty of gussets, I tested the rig and ... it bent. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) 3/4" solid bar stock bent like a pretzel. And it yielded right at the end of the gusseting. Think of it as a pry bar. I opened the door and placed the jack on the end of the receiver and lifted the car without an issue ... So help me out here ... what can I do to the bar stock I have to increase it's strength or what kind of 3/4" bar stock can I source that will lift 1500lbs? |
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 813 Joined: 21-January 04 From: Santa Barbara, CA Member No.: 141 ![]() |
Can't find a pic at the moment, but JR Smith on his AIX Camaro had part of the roll cage that came down through the rocker panel that he could use to jack the car. I've always thought that would be a nice thing to have - although jacking the wife's car via the subframe connectors is quite simple.
The jacking plate for BMW factory jack points shown above doesn't work terrible well on my BMW (quiet Randy!) as I can't get my jack and a jackstand to be in that same area simultaneously, and the factory jack point has been known to be not the strongest point. Jason |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 5th June 2025 - 04:57 PM |