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#1
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Nothing says 'I love you.' like a box of Hydroshoks ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Moderators Posts: 5,284 Joined: 23-December 03 From: Granbury, TX Member No.: 4 ![]() |
IN an effort to lose weight off the race car, I want to cut the SFCs off. However, I use them to jack up the car.
After seeing several "pro" teams use a receiver/stab setup off the roll cage, I began fabricating this kind of rig. I used 1" square tubing as the receiver and gusseted the hell out of it to keep deflection to a minimum. I have some 3/4" solid bar stock I was using as the stab. After welding the receiver portion to the cage and mocking up the stab with plenty of gussets, I tested the rig and ... it bent. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) 3/4" solid bar stock bent like a pretzel. And it yielded right at the end of the gusseting. Think of it as a pry bar. I opened the door and placed the jack on the end of the receiver and lifted the car without an issue ... So help me out here ... what can I do to the bar stock I have to increase it's strength or what kind of 3/4" bar stock can I source that will lift 1500lbs? |
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#2
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 5,226 Joined: 24-December 03 From: Danville, CA, USA Member No.: 27 ![]() |
Not THAT much heavier. Granted it is much thicker wall than the thin wall tubing you are working with but the 6-7" of it is no big deal.
It is not the same size as the hitch on your 2500 truck.....it is the itty bitty reciever and hitch....1 1/4" square I think. This post has been edited by rmackintosh: Nov 26 2008, 01:43 AM |
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#3
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Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 3,323 Joined: 30-March 06 From: Detroit Suburbs Member No.: 1,144 ![]() |
Not THAT much heavier. I don't mean to pick on you Randy but I've been thinking about this a lot as I am trimming out a wire at a time out of my wiring harnesses. There are probably hundreds to even a thousand little things that you touch on the car over the years. If you scrutinize every 0.1, 0.2, .5, 1lb, it adds up. Not right away, but over the years each little detail x100 or x1000 gives you some significant savings. This isn’t something that hasn’t been said before, but I just thought I’d say it again. |
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#4
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 5,226 Joined: 24-December 03 From: Danville, CA, USA Member No.: 27 ![]() |
Not THAT much heavier. I don't mean to pick on you Randy but I've been thinking about this a lot as I am trimming out a wire at a time out of my wiring harnesses. There are probably hundreds to even a thousand little things that you touch on the car over the years. If you scrutinize every 0.1, 0.2, .5, 1lb, it adds up. Not right away, but over the years each little detail x100 or x1000 gives you some significant savings. This isn’t something that hasn’t been said before, but I just thought I’d say it again. Oh...don't think I don't know it. I have spent lots of $$$ and hours trimming from my elephant! I am saying that 6" of trailer hitch (total weight maybe 2 lbs) is not that much. You need to make the thing strong enough to support jacking up a 3000 lb. car after all. You will put another 1+ lb. gussetting up that sucker to hold the car.... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) You could make a contraption like yours to make it pin on and removable true enough. But in this case, something that is used every day and takes a lot of stress doing it, I like simple. I don't have to open the door to access mine, it buts right up to the door and I can slip it in and be jacking in like 3 seconds....that is an important feature to me. I like simplicity and functionality for such a critical, much used part! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool2.gif) |
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#5
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Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 3,323 Joined: 30-March 06 From: Detroit Suburbs Member No.: 1,144 ![]() |
Not THAT much heavier. I don't mean to pick on you Randy but I've been thinking about this a lot as I am trimming out a wire at a time out of my wiring harnesses. There are probably hundreds to even a thousand little things that you touch on the car over the years. If you scrutinize every 0.1, 0.2, .5, 1lb, it adds up. Not right away, but over the years each little detail x100 or x1000 gives you some significant savings. This isn’t something that hasn’t been said before, but I just thought I’d say it again. Oh...don't think I don't know it. I have spent lots of $$$ and hours trimming from my elephant! I am saying that 6" of trailer hitch (total weight maybe 2 lbs) is not that much. You need to make the thing strong enough to support jacking up a 3000 lb. car after all. You will put another 1+ lb. gussetting up that sucker to hold the car.... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) You could make a contraption like yours to make it pin on and removable true enough. But in this case, something that is used every day and takes a lot of stress doing it, I like simple. I don't have to open the door to access mine, it buts right up to the door and I can slip it in and be jacking in like 3 seconds....that is an important feature to me. I like simplicity and functionality for such a critical, much used part! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool2.gif) I agree, its worth 2 lbs esp when you are going to save about 30 by removing the SFCs. But if you can save a couple more, why not (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool2.gif) With the Nascar door bars the way you have them on the drivers side I agree that it doesn't add too much weight and it is more robust. But with an X-bar I think the way I have it has more of an advantage. Also, I plan to keep my windows and door panels since I drive on the street, so thats the only way for me to do it. One thing I should mention about my contraption is that you want to make sure you have a good clean fit between the receiver and the square hole. You don't want it to be loose. That detail might mike this version a bit more difficult to fab. |
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#6
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 5,226 Joined: 24-December 03 From: Danville, CA, USA Member No.: 27 ![]() |
But with an X-bar I think the way I have it has more of an advantage. Also, I plan to keep my windows and door panels since I drive on the street, so thats the only way for me to do it. Yeah, my passenger has an X like Mitch's and what you describe....and actually its roots are much like yours...trailer reciever buts up to the flat bar coming down from the X much like your drawing....but instead of the "pin box" my reciever juts out from there. Two small round tubes up to the X for support. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool2.gif) This post has been edited by rmackintosh: Nov 26 2008, 04:12 AM |
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