[mitchntx]

Knees are shot. Like ice cream too much to loose weight, means the obvious answer is to install a lift.

So, looking at the "reasonable" end of 9K lb, symmetrical lifts, what's the short comings of the following brands?

http://www.naautoequipment.com/2-post-lifts.html


http://www.derekweaver.com/update/products...9A_2_Post_Lifts


http://www.eagleequip.com/page/EE/PROD/LI-ETP/MTP-9F


http://www.nationalautotools.com/nt9-9000-...e-lift-p-2.html

[mitchntx]

I had some 2x12 lumber and cut 2 ~40" long and then back cut one end of each at a 45* angle so that it snugged against the plate that covers the hydraulic line and the EQ cables.
Not real happy with that as it clutters the floor. Like I said all I need is 1/2" or less. Might look into something more permenant on the pad or take a grinder to the car. It snags on the boxed section of the front SFC.

I too removed the pigtail and wired straight into the box. In actuality, I brought 6g cable on a 50A breaker to a box just below the motor assembly and installed a 22V plug for my welder/plasma cutter. I then ran a 10g pig tail from that box up and into motor assembly box amd used wire nuts.

As long as I'm not welding full tilt AND running the lift at the same time, I should be OK.

I also ran a dedicated 20A 110 to a quad plug box, also mounted on the lift beam. I'd like to plumb air over there as well.