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#1
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Nothing says 'I love you.' like a box of Hydroshoks ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Moderators Posts: 5,284 Joined: 23-December 03 From: Granbury, TX Member No.: 4 ![]() |
IN an effort to lose weight off the race car, I want to cut the SFCs off. However, I use them to jack up the car.
After seeing several "pro" teams use a receiver/stab setup off the roll cage, I began fabricating this kind of rig. I used 1" square tubing as the receiver and gusseted the hell out of it to keep deflection to a minimum. I have some 3/4" solid bar stock I was using as the stab. After welding the receiver portion to the cage and mocking up the stab with plenty of gussets, I tested the rig and ... it bent. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) 3/4" solid bar stock bent like a pretzel. And it yielded right at the end of the gusseting. Think of it as a pry bar. I opened the door and placed the jack on the end of the receiver and lifted the car without an issue ... So help me out here ... what can I do to the bar stock I have to increase it's strength or what kind of 3/4" bar stock can I source that will lift 1500lbs? |
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#2
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,766 Joined: 10-April 04 From: New Orleans, LA Member No.: 303 ![]() |
Well, my solution isn't nearly as cool looking as a stab/receiver combo. But, it's light and it works. I simply welded a piece of 1/4" thick plate to the rear of the framerail under the floorboards. The part that has the factory tiedown hole in it. There were some concerns about the holes elongating with use (I use them for tying the car down on the trailer).
Now, I just stick my jack under there and use it to jack the car. Both tires come up within 3-4 pumps. And, i don't have to worry about finding that receiver when doing a quick pit (or leaving it at home). |
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#3
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newbie Group: Advanced Members Posts: 28 Joined: 30-November 07 From: silicon valley Member No.: 2,026 ![]() |
wow, what do you guys think about these little pins?
(IMG:http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1359/593330953_52b0626d4e_o.jpg) (IMG:http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1312/593331075_4673996ff6_o.jpg) you can see where the pin comes in through the rocker here (IMG:http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1077/593331229_a61a9d143c_o.jpg) is this common on lighter weight cars? seeing how close the jack is to the body, they reduced the moment arm a whole lot, but i wonder if stronger pins might work, as long as you keep the jack close to the body? also, it's a mitsubishi galant i think, here's the flicker set http://flickr.com/photos/larryparker/sets/72157600459014007/ |
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#4
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Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 3,323 Joined: 30-March 06 From: Detroit Suburbs Member No.: 1,144 ![]() |
wow, what do you guys think about these little pins? Somehow I missed this. The pins are probably hardened steel so they MIGHT be strong enough assuming they are short enough. But I completely agree with TB, they don't appear to be retained well. (IMG:http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o33/StanIROCZ/stab_receiver1.jpg) So, I've put some more thought into my contraption above I don't think it will work. Since the jacking point is ~6" out to the right to clear the rocker panel, the vertical bar that is tied between the rocker and the X will be resisting a bending moment i.e. the top will be getting pushed in (to the left) and the bottom will be getting pulled out (to the right). I think the top would be ok, but the rocker panel won't be strong enough since it is only sheet metal. So here is a better idea: (IMG:http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o33/StanIROCZ/Cage/stab_receiverAG-Copy2.jpg) Cut a square hole in the floor so the square tube can pass through. Make the hole flush with the pinch weld in the rocker so it can be welded directly to the rocker. This takes away almost all of the bending loads caused by versions 1 and 2 and is the simplest solution for x-bars, I think. You have a couple options for the bottom part where the jack would touch. You can either weld a plate to the bottom and call it good. Or you can make a separate "hitch" as shown in blue in the picture. The benefit of the separate piece would be ground clearance since I'm not sure if I like the idea have having a blunt object sticking out at the ground line. This is so much simpler. Looking back I don't know why I didn't think of this first. Hopefully it works since I've already hacked out my SFC's (which is a dirty dirty job BTW). |
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