[2manyfbods]

Yeah, it's a little off the usual topic content but, My Hot water heater is starting to go. I would prefer to change it before it quits completely.

I've done some research on tankless water heaters but, I would like to here feedback on those of you that have them. I live in the phoenix area so, ground water rarely gets below 45-50 degrees and I have a 200amp service panel. I only have electric

Thanks !


<F body content - I take a shower before going to the race track with my Firebird :lol >

[cccbock]

Yeah, it's a little off the usual topic content but, My Hot water heater is starting to go. I would prefer to change it before it quits completely.

I've done some research on tankless water heaters but, I would like to here feedback on those of you that have them. I live in the phoenix area so, ground water rarely gets below 45-50 degrees and I have a 200amp service panel. I only have electric

Thanks !


<F body content - I take a shower before going to the race track with my Firebird :lol >

two main concerns.

Do you have electric capacity? a typical unit might require three 40 amp circuits on a 240V system. Unless your home is practically new, and the electric service was way oversized to begin with, you probably don't have this capacity.

Second, the unit needs to be sized to supply enough hot water to meet the flow requirements of the users. For example, if the unit supplies 3 gallons per minute at a 40 degree rise (and your incoming is 50), it will never be capable of filling a 50 gallon tub with 100 degree water since the max temp here would be 90. If you reset the system to supply a higher temp, then the available flow will be less. for example, if you get 2gpm with a 50 degree rise, in this example, you will need 25 minutes to fill a 50 gallon tub with 100 degree water. Not too good.

This type of system makes more sense in an application where space is at a premium, where there may be extremely long plumbing runs, where there is plenty of electric capacity, and where long periods of time pass (measured in many days or weeks) where hot water is not required.

I suspect your local electric utility company would greatly frown on this as well...since they need to have more capacity (about 27kw) to serve your tankless unit than your old fashioned tank (about 5kw). Just round numbers.

I'd stick with old school.

bock

[Eskimo]

This type of system makes more sense in an application where space is at a premium, where there may be extremely long plumbing runs, where there is plenty of electric capacity, and where long periods of time pass (measured in many days or weeks) where hot water is not required.

Interesting, and the first negaitve I've read about them. However, most of what I'm read was from vendors.. and come to think of it, the electric ones were only mentioned for an under-sink install out in a shop (f-body content - which is where I fix my f-body), or something similar. All the whole-house units are always shown as gas.. now I know why!

Bock - Does your opinion hold true for gas units as well? Our HW heater is nowhere near dead, but: we have a gigantic jacuzzi tub (drains our 80 gal. HW heater in order to almost fill it), and there's only the 2 of us in the house, so the usage is very much 2x a day. We're also on well water, so we'd need a very good amount of temp rise.

I'd also have to think that it would take even longer to get hot water at the tap with a tankless, since the unit itself would have to heat up?