[StanIROCZ]

I got a line on some Lexan through a bankruptcy auction here in Detroit.

It’s the good stuff, Lexan MR10 (scratch resistant coating, UV resistant etc etc):

Lexan* MR10 sheets improved Margard® II coating resists abrasion and defies graffiti to ensure a “like-new” appearance for many years to come. The next generation of UV absorbers, Margard® coating now incorporates enhanced UV absorbers to protect the sheet from the debilitating effects of sunlight. As a result, Lexan* MR10 is accompanied by extended warranties that are your assurance of long term product performance; 10 yr. prorated replacement warranty against breakage, yellowing, abrasion, loss of light transmission and coating delamination.^ 15 year warranty against yellowing and light transmission for qualified dual glazed systems.** Virtually unbreakable. High light transmission common to all Lexan* sheet products. Easily maintained without marring, hazing, or yellowing. Compiles with major model building codes. Dade county approved material.† Recommended by GE for use in residential vertical glazing applications. The ideal glazing for high traffic and high impact areas such as: educational institutions, psychiatric hospitals, storefronts and windows, low-level physical attack areas, entrance doors and patios, hurricane protection, railings and sound barriers. Will withstand -40° to 180° continuous and 220°F short term with no load. ^ Consult warranty for complete details. ** Combining laminated glass and LEXAN* SL-4855 sheet used in accordance with the following guidelines: Double-channeled sash systems; EPDM gasketing throughout; proper venting; adequate air space and rabbet depth (for thermal movement); supplied by a sash OEM with a compatible double-channeled sash for LEXAN* sheet. Consult warranty for complete details. † Data on file at Sabic Innovative Plastics.

I'm getting it in 6x8 sheets, 3/16" thick only. It needs to be cut down to be shipped. So far it looks like UPS won't ship a 48x72 because it’s too big, but it will ship 44x72. Two of these are enough to do a windshield and hatch. A 1/3 sheet could do a thirdgen windshield (32x65).

I plugged in a couple random US zip codes in at UPS.com to get an idea of how much shipping is going to be. Obviously size is the biggest factor and not weight. 4 half sheets to California is $150. 2 half sheets to southern Illinois is $100. Just to give you an idea. If you want how much it is to your door I'll be shipping from 48310.

I'm not sure if this stuff is cheaper elsewhere but here: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.a...oduct%5Fid=9948 is showing it as almost $500 for a smaller sheet than what I am getting.

VFN Fiberglass charges $359 for a MR10 thirdgen windshield and $285 for a 4th gen http://www.vfnfiberglass.com/site.htm

I'm thinking I could do half sheets for $120/ea + shipping, and that price could change. If you have friends that local to you and are interested, it would make sense to combine ship since an extra sheet doesn't cost much more to ship (in some cases it looks like it is free).

Let me know if you're interested and we'll go from there.

This post has been edited by StanIROCZ: Sep 10 2009, 03:55 AM

[00 Trans Ram]

Here you go. I've listed the author of the individual posts in all caps before his/her comments. Also, these are only the relevant comments (deleted all the "That's looks good!" ones).

If you have any quesitons, please PM me and I'll shoot you his e-mail. Great guy, lots of experience, and willing to share. (jeez, that sounds like a personals ad!)

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-BOB-

I've discovered, like most subjects, if you search long enough you can find someone telling you not to do what others say is the best practice. The subject of switching to Lexan windows is no different. Here's what I ended up with.

I started with the rear hatch as I'm using plain (not coated) Lexan and I figured if I screwed it up it was not a big deal. I started with a $125 piece of 1/8" (all they sell) from Clausen's.

Fasteners seem to be a major area of disagreement even among the experts. I tried nutserts but found the side load, produced by the curving of the Lexan, put to much stress on the nutserts and caused failure. I ended up with countersunk stainless steel metal screws.

Drilling the holes is a 3 step process if you are going to counter sink the screws. First drill all the way through the Lexan and car frame with the correct size drill bit. Next over size the Lexan, this is to allow it to expand and contract. Finally, use a counter sink to finish up.

• Remove trim.
• Make a pattern from the existing window. Perhaps the most important step. I used large sheets, 2 X 4, of paper taped together.
• Remove the glass.
• Clean/scrape the ledge the glass sits on.
• Install 3/4" wide weather stripping where the edge of the Lexan will go.
• Draw a pattern on the protective film using your pattern.
• Cut the Lexan using a new wood fast cut jig saw blade. Blades for metal will melt the Lexan.
• Test fit.
• Starting at one edge install just enough fasteners to hold the Lexan in place and create the proper curves.
• Measure 2 1/2" from the edge of the cars window and draw an inner pattern for painting a black trim edge. Measuring from the vehicles window frame gives the inner pattern a straight edge and mitigates inconsistencies in the cut of the Lexan.
• Cut out the trim pattern from the protective covering and remove the covering.
• Starting at one side, drill the holes and attach as you work from one side to the other.
• Remove the Lexan.
• Paint the outer trim. The protective covering will not allow paint to seep under it.
• Remove outer covering from both sides and do the final install.

Because this is the rear hatch, I still have to make the two hold down straps that go on the outside of the Lexan and divide it roughly into thirds. I'm told this helps prevent the Lexan from blowing out.



(IMG:http://bobbeasley.com/images/Lexan.gif)

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-MELAN444-

good write up bob. if you are two lazy to get the correct jigsaw blade you can apply painters tape to both side of the cut line and a metal blade works. can't explain it scientifically but works like a charm.

also, drilling a few 1-1/2" - 2" holes may help relieve pressure and probably help keep it from blowing out.

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-BOB-

The big difference between the windshield and hatch is the bracing. The Grand Am Cup RX8s have a brace in the center and another that divides the right half into two equal sections.

I caught a break on this one. Five Star Race Car Bodies has these braces and it turns out one of the models fits a FC nearly perfect. The curve is dead on and all I have to do is trim 1/2" off of one end. These aluminum pieces will bolt in without any welding.

The Five Star braces are T shaped extruded aluminum with a foam face to protect the Lexan.



(IMG:http://v8sevens.com/images/windshieldbraces.gif)

_____________________



-BOB-

According to the folks at SpeedGlass, windshield thickness is not a function of impact resistence. It's about the ability to maintain it's shape and not blow in. If the largest span is small enough then 1/8" is what they recommend. In my case, with the braces, the largest span is only 2.5' X 32". If I did not want the braces, they would have recommended at least 3/16" .

I ordered 1/8" coated $190 + shipping. This is about the cost of a new glass windshield. If I get 2 seasons out of it then I'm ahead of the game at NPR. Now that we are road racing and not WTF racing (consistently running off track was okay) I expect to get several seasons out of the Lexan.... we shall see.



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This post has been edited by 00 Trans Ram: Sep 11 2009, 01:44 PM