[NU_BLUE]

I have a question. Most of you on here are good welders. I was wondering where ya'll learned it? Do you just pick up over the yrs. or were you trained, etc?

I've played around with a stick welder more times than I remember and I've got the basic idea from welding on farm equipment, etc. However, I would like to get into MIG and TIG welding....I'm just curious where to start.

[trackbird]

I fully agree Mitch. I wasn't slighting the nicer machines (I'm lusting after the one you bought, or the 250 amp big brother) as much as stating that the Hobarts are quite good and win the dollar per amp contest while being very respectable. If a Miller or Lincoln is in your budget when you go shopping, buy one with complete confidence that you're buying a nice machine. If your budget leaves you picking between a 140 amp or smaller (110v) Miller/Lincoln or a 175+ amp (220v) Hobart, I'd take the extra power and buy the Hobart (assuming you have 220v available).

If your budget fits a 175+ amp Miller/Lincoln buy one and never look back. You do get what you pay for...if you can afford it. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (Still saving my pennies to buy a Miller Mig and lusting after a nice Synchrowave tig).

[mitchntx]

I fully agree Mitch. I wasn't slighting the nicer machines (I'm lusting after the one you bought, or the 250 amp big brother) as much as stating that the Hobarts are quite good and win the dollar per amp contest while being very respectable. If a Miller or Lincoln is in your budget when you go shopping, buy one with complete confidence that you're buying a nice machine. If your budget leaves you picking between a 140 amp or smaller (110v) Miller/Lincoln or a 175+ amp (220v) Hobart, I'd take the extra power and buy the Hobart (assuming you have 220v available).

If your budget fits a 175+ amp Miller/Lincoln buy one and never look back. You do get what you pay for...if you can afford it. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (Still saving my pennies to buy a Miller Mig and lusting after a nice Synchrowave tig).

And I wasn't slighting the Hobart either. For years I figured it would be "good enough".

For exhausts and such stuff its probably OK. But if you start building cages, seat mounts, gussetts ... you know, things you are putting your life in the hands of, well ...

[trackbird]

And I wasn't slighting the Hobart either. For years I figured it would be "good enough".

For exhausts and such stuff its probably OK. But if you start building cages, seat mounts, gussetts ... you know, things you are putting your life in the hands of, well ...

Mitch, you know I love ya brother, but I don't think anyone here should get the impression that a 220v Hobart is only good for welding exhaust... (And I'd say the same thing if I'd only used one and owned something else...though I will admit that I've been eyeballing a larger 250 amp Miller or Lincoln...just because I'm in the mood) I've used several of the 110v welders (Lincoln, Hobart, Craftsman and a 220v Snap On and some others, though I've not had my hands on any of the Miller machines) and the arc control on the larger Hobart machine is as good or better than any machine I've personally ever used. It has enough power to blow holes in 1/4" plate steel, if the person with the torch does their job they'll have complete fusion of anything that goes under the arc.

Yup, there are nicer machines with "soft arc start" and higher duty cycles. That's going to make it a bit nicer to use, but there are many machines currently on the market that are more than capable of doing an excellent job for less than a mortgage payment.

As for me personally, the reduced cost of the Hobart saved me enough money to pay for my used Lincoln Tig. Given the choice of a 210 amp Hobart mig and a 175 amp Lincoln tig, or a $1600 mig... I'd personally buy both of my current machines all over again.

As always, your results may vary and nobody has to agree with me... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)


(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/bow28.gif)

[robz71lm7]

Mitch, you know I love ya brother, but I don't think anyone here should get the impression that a 220v Hobart is only good for welding exhaust... (And I'd say the same thing if I'd only used one and owned something else...though I will admit that I've been eyeballing a larger 250 amp Miller or Lincoln...just because I'm in the mood) I've used several of the 110v welders (Lincoln, Hobart, Craftsman and a 220v Snap On and some others, though I've not had my hands on any of the Miller machines) and the arc control on the larger Hobart machine is as good or better than any machine I've personally ever used. It has enough power to blow holes in 1/4" plate steel, if the person with the torch does their job they'll have complete fusion of anything that goes under the arc.

I'm going to agree with Kevin, there is no reason a properly sized, newer Hobart will keep you from making sound welds on a roll cage. I'd recommend the Hobart Handler 210 for most people. Although if money is available the MM211 or 212 is a better machine, but few people can really justify the 212.